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Neep help on u-joint removal.

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Old Jan 20, 2006 | 07:51 PM
  #1  
Toddski's Avatar
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From: Graham, Wa.
Neep help on u-joint removal.

Well i have the driveline down and i'm trying to remove the old u-joints but i cannot get them to budge.
I have taken the retaining rings off and have soaked the yokes with fluid but i think they are in there nice and tight.
I even tried some heat but that didn't work.
I have a small socket to push on one side and a large socket on the other side to catch all in a vice.

Anyone have any other ideas on how to get these things to break loose? What a pain
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Old Jan 20, 2006 | 09:12 PM
  #2  
colsoncj's Avatar
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From: Monett, MO (Springfield)
I got tired of screwing with mine and just had my buddy with a machine shop take care of them
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Old Jan 20, 2006 | 09:44 PM
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InternetRoadkill's Avatar
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From: San Antonio, Texas
A press is your friend with stubborn u-joints. But the odd shape of the yokes on the yota shafts makes supporting them under a press a bit of a challenge.

If you're really in a bind, you can cradle the spider in a large vise and hold a large socket over the end cap. Then take a large hammer and smack the socket. The bearing cap should work its way out. Be sure to support the yokes well and try to keep the hammering to a minimum. Cuts and gashes from hammering can lead to cracks later on.
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Old Jan 21, 2006 | 03:22 AM
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From: Massachusetts
I've found that sometimes the vise is in a spot where you can't get the best angle for the swing of the hammer.

I don't recommend this is the "best" solution but if your stuck it may work. Put the drive shaft on the floor and sit it up on a block of wood, supporting the yolk the best you can. Then place your socket on the cap, a solid metal blank works best if you have one, and swing away with a nice heavy sledge. Also spray everything with penetrating fluid like PB Blaster.

Like I said, it may not be the ideal method but I've done it this way before and it has worked.

A press is definately the easiest way.

Let us know how you make out.
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Old Jan 21, 2006 | 08:24 AM
  #5  
Toddski's Avatar
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From: Graham, Wa.
Thanks guys for the info.
I'm heading out here this morning for round two
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Old Jan 21, 2006 | 09:50 AM
  #6  
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From: San Diego, CA
I just did mine. I used this method: link

BFH and a vise worked great.
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 08:48 AM
  #7  
Toddski's Avatar
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From: Graham, Wa.
Sheeez!!!
What a pain. Finally got them off and replaced. Found out there was no lube in the u-joints. Spider gears looked burnt.

I sprayed alot of penatrating oil on the u-joints and let it sit over night.
I then used a small socket to push and a large socket to catch and did it all in a large vice.
My brother-in-law came over and he was a big help.

I'm still getting a vibration when i decelerate from around 50 mph. I thought it was the u-joints.
Guess i'll keep trying.

Thanks everyone for the help.
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 12:19 PM
  #8  
91Toyota4x4's Avatar
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From: Gainesville, FL
Originally Posted by abalagtas
I just did mine. I used this method: link

BFH and a vise worked great.
Yup. I tried the socket thing and it was dumb this way is much easier.

I did my first one using this method in a parking lot with 2 cinder blocks instead of a vice. Took me less than an hour and it was my first time.
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 12:56 PM
  #9  
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From: bristol, vermont
u-joint removal

i rebuilt my 98 taco shaft recently. u-joints came out hard. i found if you put yolk in the vise with sockets where needed, hammer vise tight(helps to have bomb proof vise, mine broke),grab a small sledge and wack the side of the vise that will push u joint out.
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 12:57 PM
  #10  
benji77's Avatar
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From: bristol, vermont
u-joint removal

i rebuilt my 98 taco shaft recently. u-joints came out hard. i found if you put yolk in the vise with sockets where needed, hammer vise tight(helps to have bomb proof vise, mine broke),grab a small sledge and wack the side of the vise that will push u joint out. have fun
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