K9Kodi

Hello all, I just recently sold my 07 ram 2500 qc lb 4x4 cummins in order to get capital for a business venture. I have the opportunity to purchase a 95 Toyota pickup from a co-worker. He has had it since new, roughly 150k miles on it. He is very OCD so its in very good physical condition however it has developed a nice engine knock. Hes asking 1800, im thinking offering 1500. What are my options as far as engines go, and what should I expect to spend to get a junkyard motor vs rebuild the one in it vs pull it and pay for machining and rebuild it myself

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

It might be a little help to know just what engine might be in this truck.

Then these trucks have very regional prices,.

Then with a knock you really don`t know what kind of surprises one may find

Used engine @ $800.00 to $1500.00 depending what you want.

Rebuilt again depending what you need an easy $1200.00 on up to several thousand .

Just how much of the labor can you do

Auto or manual be foolish not to service the trans or put in a new clutch.

I never bought a used 4x4 that I did not put at least $1000.00 in parts to being it up to my standards.

K9Kodi

yes I can do mechanical stuff, just minus the special tooling. If I pull motor I will be replacing clutch, youd be crazy to go that far and not do it. its a 22re.

K9Kodi

Also, what other vehicles was a compatible 22re used in

RSR

South outside of the Rust Belt or Mountain West, you're looking at $3000+ depending on the model for fair market price for a well kept truck. 4x4s add another $1k+.

22res are primarily Pickups and 4runners.

Xtra Cabs on trucks are worth the extra $ if you're above 5' 8" or so, or if you need the extra room. SR5 packages on these model trucks are the premium editions vs later where they're the entry level.

If body and frame are good, I'd jump on your buddies deal if the body/frame/model are what you're looking for.

With 22res, just bear in mind if you want performance you will pay for it. 70+ mph (modern highway speeds) is pushing it for those trucks.

K9Kodi

Just bought it. 1500 bucks. It sounds like a num 1 wrist pin. Only knocks on red line rpm range or going from load to no load on motor, and only for a second when goin from load to no load. I have mastered driving it w out making it knock

donomite49

could be timing chain.

should go 300k miles no problem.

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

yep, the description sounds like my t-chain did when the guides broke.

post up some pics! sounds like you got a decent rig.

K9Kodi

If someone wants to host my pictures I'll send em via text. 757 818 o712.

I believe timing chain was done last week

K9Kodi

Oh I figured it out

andykrow

What was the issue? I had a wrist pin noise like you describe, and I also got good at not letting it knock when driving - does it also knock when you float the throttle? I decided I'd drive it till I killed the motor and it took 40k miles to toss a rod, including many high rev I70 climbs.

Timing chain isn't a high RPM noise nor does it happen when you float the throttle. It's also much more of a fast rattle compared to a knock which is at rpm speed and more consistent if that makes sense. The wrist pin and t-chain noises are both fairly high pitched, however. (well, this is my experience with t-chains vs knocks and I've experienced both)

K9Kodi

It only happens when rpms go high,, usually above normal shifting rpms and then it will happen when shifting from one gear to another if you shift high in the rpm range. If it happens between shifting it's only for a slight second. If you go from traveling at speed and shift into neutral you will hear the knock for a slight second. Other than that the motor is whisper quiet. If anyone will post pics for me I'll text em to ya

andykrow

It sounds like a wrist pin to me. A slack t-chain won't make noise all the time at high rpm, it only makes the noise when the cam runs a tiny bit faster than than the crank right after letting off the gas. And at startup with some trucks. If you pop the hood you should be able to hold the throttle steady around 2500 rpm and hear the pin knock quietly. A mechanic's stethoscope thingy will really help you narrow down where the noise is coming from.

FWIW, I bought a previous truck with this noise thinking it was a t-chain rattle... I learned the difference when I had a mechanic look at it with me, haha. My would pretty much only knock when shifting above 3k, and at 3.5k and up it would knock all the time. But it is pretty high pitched, not like a main or rod bearing. Almost a tick but slightly deeper than valvetrain noise.

As for the pics, if you have them on your computer you can attach them to your reply in the forum. Go to advanced reply and look for the paper clip icon.

K9Kodi

I only have smart phone

andykrow

Got the yotatech app? Reply in that, then hit the "+" button at the top and you can attach an image.

K9Kodi

I can clearly hear it in num 1 cylinder. Most forward cylinder? Truck runs great minus the noise which doesn't affect performance. The timing cover, gaskets and such are all new