4bows

I like to run with the topper off and night runs can get kind of chilly for the passengers in the back. I snagged a used oem rear heater (e-bay) to install in my rig. This will be a new install and I will have to hit Napa or the hardware store to fab up the coolant lines that will run from the rear heater stubs to the engine compartment. What do you guys recommend that I buy to finish this install? (The boneyards around here are very proud of their Toyota inventory...last summer I was considering a half door project and I was quoted $300 for a set of doors! Another inquiry for seat belts...$125!)

What is the factory method of making the various component connections? Will solder hold up to road/trail vibration? Rubber hose with clamps (heat damage)? I want to do it right so I don't have to worry about losing coolant from an inferior connection.

Can my current console handle the heater with some mods? I don't mind abandoning the console if I need to...I was toying with the idea of an ammo can mod of some sorts anyway.

What kind of shutoff valve do I need to get? I'm guessing you guys running with rear heaters turn off the valve during the summer? Any pics you guys can post of your factory installations (or retrofits) would be great...(pics of both the heater and the engine bay connections/shut-off valves?) I thank you in advance for your help/suggestions.

InternetRoadkill

4Rs with rear heaters have a different console. The factory water tubes are brass connected with rubber hoses.

leebee

and they include the on/off switch and slider control.

lee

4bows

I've got the controls and the coolant line elbows are in good shape...just need to run power and coolant lines...I think!

tc

It's hardlines all the way back with about 12-18" of flexible hose into the rear heater. I know because I just took mine out after the flexible lines got into the driveshaft flange and emptied coolant all over. (NOTE: I have dual cases, so the flange is back a bit farther than normal)

It's going to be a MAJOR PITA. Buy some blankets. I saw somewhere some electric blankets that plug into the cigarette lighter.

Dublin

"Buy some blankets" LMAO

4bows

I've checked out the seat heater kits that include the wiring harness and hi/low switch...I'm commited to the heater install (I just like the challenge)...and I plan on making a console that better meets my needs. Since I will making my own console, I could simply raise the heater two inches and run the lines inside of the cab (both supply and return lines secured inside of 1" conduit until it breaches the firewall). This would eliminate the risk of trail damage to the lines. I pulled the carpet long ago so I have some flexibility with my design...I'm happy with my 4.7 transfer case for how I use the rig so a future dual case mod won't be a design concern...I'm more interested in function over form. I don't want coolant running through these lines during the summer...that is why I am interested in a shut-off valve setup. Can you think of any problems I might be running into?

just a 22re

go stock with a "t" fitting and a stock shut off on the feed side line and run your lines feed on drivers side of hump and return on the pass side of hump and have the core and blower in side the center if you like and go to home creep show or some other home repair store get you some ABS plastic and cut and use a hot glue gun and make your own heater box then send a +12 to a switch in the center and ground it right there to the body easy not hard and junk yard shut off valve and some hoses and clamps from auto zone or some place easy easy easy easy

dlbrunner

In my FJ 40, I had a rear heater. Sometimes in the summer on real hot days (with the top off) if the engine started running real hot, I would turn on the rear heater and it would help the cooling a little. very little, but it is better than having the front heater roasting you out.