my new truck, 1990 xtra cab
03-01-2008, 02:10 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
my new truck, 1990 xtra cab
pretty excited about picking up this truck. 1990 xtra cab V6 140k miles.
The good:
only $1800 !
has a new clutch
very, very little rust.
nice leer cap
The bad:
heater switch needs new resistor (only works on high)
front seat is worn (seat covers on order)
rear end sags a bit (pro comp AAL's on the way)
one mismatched tire, the rest are 50% worn
one small rust hole on rocker panel, thinking of filling it and hitting it with primer and touch up paint
So there you have it! any reccomendations on some preventative maintnence related to this model I should look into?
Runs like a top btw!
03-01-2008, 02:14 PM
#3
Registered User
run the VIN and make sure the headgasket call has been redone on it...if it qualifies...umm..change all the fluids for sure..just to be safe..unless u have proof of them being changed by the previous owner..dated and everything...other than that...get some good M/T's and throw an E-locker in the rear..and an aussie up front..and take it ANYWHERE...thinkin about puttin lockers front and rear in my '80 pickup.
03-01-2008, 02:44 PM
#5
Registered User
welcome!
wanna sell you camper shell? Just kidding,
anyways, there is also a steering rod recall, I am pretty sure that your year has it too, but not 100%, pretty easy to find out, just call the dealership with your vin #
wanna sell you camper shell? Just kidding,
anyways, there is also a steering rod recall, I am pretty sure that your year has it too, but not 100%, pretty easy to find out, just call the dealership with your vin #
03-01-2008, 03:38 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Chico, California
Posts: 3,870
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Next time you take the intake plenum off, inspect the fuel pressure regulator, make sure the screw in the middles is still tight! That screw fell out on my v6, caused a fire, it was a mess! Wouldn't hurt to carry a fire extinguisher! I do!
Trending Topics
03-02-2008, 11:01 AM
#8
Registered User
he is talking about this:
http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/tra...rans_parts.htm
Here is another pic where the seat goes into the top of the transmission:
The seat: it's the "bushing" or whatever you want to call it the is in between the stationary "ball" part of your shifter and the "cup" that is pivots in, on top of the transmission.
The socket: it goes on the end of your shifter (past the pivot ball), it's the part that actually goes down into your tranny. Most of the time, these don't really start getting worn for some time, mine looks brand new with 140k.
If it gets really worn, falls apart, destroyed, your shifter gets really, really loose, like moving 3 inches side to side when the transmission is in gear. It's a pretty common occurrence on truck with higher miles (over 100k). BUT: if your shifter doesn't move more than an inch (either side to side or front to back) while in gear, then I wouldn't bother. You aren't going to see much, if any improvement. (best thing to do is pull the shifter and actually look at the parts before buying anything you might not need)
The marlin ones are hard plastic and the stock ones are two kinds of hard rubber. Most people on here will swear that you need to get the "heavy duty" marlin one. I got one, and it didn't seem like it was any better than what I had to begin with. Actually, at first I thought it was worse, but after replacing the marlin one with a new oem dealership one, they are about the same, play-wise.
I understand that the Marlin one would most likely last years longer, but my opinion is that a $13 part that needs replaced every 15 years or 140k miles, is not in dire need of aftermarket support for "heavy duty" items. I did go back to the oem one (because of my initial reaction of the marlin being worse than my old oem one, I went to the dealership). The oem was the last one that was in there, and if felt the same as the marlin one, so that's what I stuck with.
After shipping for the socket and seat, it was $27 from marlin. A new dealer seat was about $13 (I didn't check on the price of the socket, because I didn't need one) I wound up selling the marlin socket and seat. I just think that the $13 OEM one lasted for 15 years and 140k miles (it was still in one piece, just starting to crack), so another OEM should last the same.
http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/tra...rans_parts.htm
Here is another pic where the seat goes into the top of the transmission:
The seat: it's the "bushing" or whatever you want to call it the is in between the stationary "ball" part of your shifter and the "cup" that is pivots in, on top of the transmission.
The socket: it goes on the end of your shifter (past the pivot ball), it's the part that actually goes down into your tranny. Most of the time, these don't really start getting worn for some time, mine looks brand new with 140k.
If it gets really worn, falls apart, destroyed, your shifter gets really, really loose, like moving 3 inches side to side when the transmission is in gear. It's a pretty common occurrence on truck with higher miles (over 100k). BUT: if your shifter doesn't move more than an inch (either side to side or front to back) while in gear, then I wouldn't bother. You aren't going to see much, if any improvement. (best thing to do is pull the shifter and actually look at the parts before buying anything you might not need)
The marlin ones are hard plastic and the stock ones are two kinds of hard rubber. Most people on here will swear that you need to get the "heavy duty" marlin one. I got one, and it didn't seem like it was any better than what I had to begin with. Actually, at first I thought it was worse, but after replacing the marlin one with a new oem dealership one, they are about the same, play-wise.
I understand that the Marlin one would most likely last years longer, but my opinion is that a $13 part that needs replaced every 15 years or 140k miles, is not in dire need of aftermarket support for "heavy duty" items. I did go back to the oem one (because of my initial reaction of the marlin being worse than my old oem one, I went to the dealership). The oem was the last one that was in there, and if felt the same as the marlin one, so that's what I stuck with.
After shipping for the socket and seat, it was $27 from marlin. A new dealer seat was about $13 (I didn't check on the price of the socket, because I didn't need one) I wound up selling the marlin socket and seat. I just think that the $13 OEM one lasted for 15 years and 140k miles (it was still in one piece, just starting to crack), so another OEM should last the same.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
PureTacoma_Tundra
PureTacoma_Tundra
0
06-29-2015 09:45 AM
dirtrider0129
Buying & Selling Advice - Feeler/Gauging Interest
10
06-24-2015 12:24 PM
