-Cheeks-

I wanted to make a thread for my rebuild, mostly so I can remember how to put the damn thing back together.

The Build:
The goal for the build is to get a reliable 22RE that maintains the good gas mileage while having a little more oomf for the hills in Western North Carolina. So I'm putting the Engnbldr street head on with a 261 cam, getting the injectors cleaned by Witchhunter, and if I have some extra cash, get either a Doug Thorley or an LCE header.

Day 1
As she sat:

After a good degreaser bath


Ran a compression test. Cyls 1, 2, and 3 were in the 130-135 PSI range. Cal 4 was 90. It jumped up to 135 with some oil. I'm thinking the rings are shot?

Started pulling parts. Got the radiator and air intake out of the way, then pulled the belts. The alternator was a pain, and the fan didn't come off easily, but off she came. Then I started pulling wires. A couple of issues came up. One, the ground wire by the alternator is not in the factory locations, it's behind the PS bracket on the block, it might be a pain to remove. Secondly, I may have broken a sensor. Anyone know what the green one was? I'm guessing I wasn't supposed to just pull it out like a wiring harness


Then I started pulling hoses. I still need to find the charcoal canister hose.


That's where is stands today, I've been going slow, labeling everything and taking lots of notes, pics, and vids. Homing that I won't screw it all up


Tomorrow I'm hoping to have the engine and tranny ready to pull out, and maybe if there's time, actually get them out.

-Cheeks-

Days 2-4

This might get a little detailed. One thing I noticed with writeups is that there is a basic level of competence and knowledge assumed. As I am incompetent and mechanically illiterate, I figured I would write up the super basics along with the nitty gritty. Something that has slowed me down but will hopefully pay dividends is that I am labeling everything that comes off the truck. Nuts and bolts go into bags labeled, parts get tagged, etc. In addition to photos, I take a video at each step, take notes on anything I encounter, and check the step off the FSM. Like I said, mechanically illiterate, so I want to be careful.

So far I have:

Disconnect battery, but leave it nearby. You're going to need it.
Remove hood (4x12mm bolts). I probably should have marked the hood before I took it off, but I forgot.
Drain coolant (I would have drained the oil, but the drain plug is seized on. I hit it with an impact and it wouldn't budge)
Remove Air Intake Tube (disconnect vacuum hose to black bulb thing, loosen hose clamp to throttle body, unsnap at air filter box, disconnect MAF wire harness) Set intake tube aside, be careful with MAF)
Air intake removed (among a few other things)
Remove radiator. Your radiators are probably bolted in with more than one bolt. Mine only had one. Also disconnect upper and lower hoses and the overflow tube. Set radiator aside. You will most likely need the space when pulling the motor, so get it out of the way
Remove Power Steering belt - loosen the pulley, then loosen the lock bolt on the side. Take belt off
Remove AC Belt - Same procedure as PS belt, loosen pulley then loosen lock bolt on side. take belt off
Remove Alt Belt/Fan - Remove the four small bolts on the fan pulley. Loosen altenator (loosen the two bolts top and bottom). Remove alt belt, pull the fan and fluid coupling unit off. This might require a bit of force
A pic of the belt routing. Take all the belts off

At this point, I tackled the crank pulley bolt, because I figured now would be a good time. I plugged the battery back in, and made sure that the distributor was unplugged (mine was from the compression test). Then I put a breaker bar under the passenger side frame and bungeed it up to hold, and put it on the crank pulley bolt. A single crank was all it took to get that sucker loose, but I kept it on for now.

Okay, next comes the wiring. I'm going to list all of the wire connections that I had to disconnect. Not all of these are accessible at this point, but you need to make sure you get them all. Additionally, there is allegedly a way to disconnect the wiring from the truck so that you can pull the whole harness along with the motor. This way might be easier, but I didn't do that because I couldn't see how. Anyways, wiring.

The wiring leaves the wheel well and goes onto the motor through the lower intake. It splits, and there are four connections on the lower passenger side.
Throttle Sensor - Big and black, gets plugged into the throttle sensor on the throttle body
AC Pump - Small and grey (smaller than injector wiring harness)
Cold Start Injector - Blackish Brown, next to the green coolant temp sensor
Coolant Temp Sensor - Green, next to the cold start injector
My thumb is on the Cold Start sensor, pointer finger on the harness for Injector #1

Also on this same section of wiring is the wiring harness for Injector #1, but it'll be nearly impossible to get that off at this point.

The main wiring continues into the space between the intake and the motor, into a major junction. One split from this section of wiring comes up to the valve cover and includes:
Grey Wiring Harness - Clips into the grey wiring harness on top of the valve cover
Maroon Wiring Harness - clips into the maroon wiring harness on top of the valve cover, near the grey
Blue Wiring Harness - clips into the blue wiring harness on top of the valve cover, near the maroon
Greyish White Blade Harness - Clips into a blade connection sticking straight up from the motor
Black wiring harness - clips into the upper intake
On my wiring, there is another small grey harness near the black wiring harness that I cannot remember where I clipped in, but when I remember I will come back and edit this
Wiring harnesses that come up to the Valve Cover and Upper Intake

That wiring continues all the way around the truck to the Ignitor Coil and Air Box, and includes
Igniter Coil
MAF Sensor
both need to be unplugged so that that wiring can come out. MAF should already be unplugged.

Back at the major junction, wires come out for the three remaining fuel injectors. Again, these are going to be nearly impossible to unclip until the upper intake is off. Also, a ground strap

After that, there is the:
Grey wiring harness - next to the fuel filter. I actually waited until the engine was halfway out to pull it because of how hard to get to it was
Small black blade harness - this plugs into the sensor low on the block, down below the oil filter
Starter wiring harness - the wiring harness that clips into the starter, small and black
Transfer case - grey, on the passenger side
Transmission - white, on the driver's side
Oxygen sensor - grey, on the driver's side (at least on my truck)

Again, you aren't going to be able to get all of these right now, but that's all the wiring harnesses you need to pull before the motor can come out. Also you need to pull your grounds. Bleeder's guide is way better, you can see it here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-guide-194413/ All mine were in the same location minus the one on the altenator, that was behind the Power Steering Pump bracket, in a PITA location. I'll move it during reassembly.

Also, I pulled the spark plug wires during my compression test, but if I hadn't I'd do that now to get them out of the way

Next post, hoses

Okay, next post will be hoses.

-Cheeks-

Hoses

This is what scared me the most, I took a bunch of time to take pictures, video, and label everything as I did it. I also sketched a picture of the upper intake and I'll be doing the same with the valve cover and vacuum line tree. I really didn't want to screw this part up. I will post a detailed picture of the upper air intake, vacuum tree line, and valve cover in a bit.

Some of the hoses need to come off regardless of whether you are removing the upper intake first or not. These are:
Brake Booster Line
Charcoal Canister Line
Power Steering Hoses

Additionally, I removed the lines on the upper intake, and I'll post that up here later today when I can do some photoshopping

Back to the less scary stuff

It took me a minute to figure out how to do it, but I disconnected throttle cable. Loosen it by loosening the nut that holds it tight on the bracket. Then pull the cable up and out so that it's slack, then just press it out. It takes a second of messing with it but it comes out.
Throttle control. Loosen the wire from the bracket to the left to get it slack on the assembly to the right

Remove Power Steering Pump - It's 4 bolts (2 front, 2 back) to get it unhooked. Don't disconnect the lines, just bungee it to the side.
Remove AC Pump - Again, we're just setting this to the side. 4 bolts, all on the side. Bungee it away.
Remove Power Steering Bracket - I removed this so that I could get at the alternator ground strap. I don't think it's necessary if that wire is connected where it's supposed to be. Regardless, it's pretty easy. 5 bolts, 3 on the front and 2 on the side.

At this point, I had enough disconnected to remove the Upper Intake. A cordless impact made short work of it. First, disconnect the line running down to pressurize the fuel rail. I unbolted the banjo bolt, but you might could just take the whole assembly off the air intake. I'll need to be careful reinstalling that banjo bolt. Disconnect the EGR return pipe in the back, then unbolt the intake from the motor/lower. For my truck it was 6 bolts and two studs, and off she came. After that, I disconnected the 4 wiring harnesses on the 4 fuel injectors, as it was very accessible

Here I unbolted the Exhaust Manifold. Again, this is something that could've waited but I figured it'd make getting to the motor mounts easier. And I have a cordless impact.

I started with disconnecting the exhaust pipe. I had three connections, a nut, a bolt, and a stud. All three were different sizes. But not a huge deal, I'm probably redoing the exhaust anyways.

Then I disconnected the EGR pipe. Two bolts, easy peasy. Hit it once or twice with a small chisel to get it to break apart.

Then I unbolted the exhaust manifold. A bunch of bolts (8 maybe?) and two nuts, and she broke away no problem. Set to the side, not I can get down to motor mounts.
Exhaust manifold. Not nearly as bad as I heard it'd be, the impact was clutch.
After that, I removed the starter. Two 14mm bolts, one front and one back. There were 4 smaller bolts that held the starter housing together, I inadvertently got those off before I realized what I had done. Hopefully I didn't destroy the starter. There's a post terminal that needs to be unscrewed, and the wiring harness if you haven't unclipped it yet. I found it was easier to remove the passenger side piece of metal on the upper wheel well, so that I could get access.

Disconnect fuel lines - I unplugged the gas return line from the little metal pipe on the firewall, and unscrewed the banjo bolt into the fuel filter. There's probably a better way to do it. I corked the fuel line and set it aside.

At this point, looking at my notes, I think the only thing holding in the motor were the motor mounts and the bell housing bolts. I started with disconnecting the bell housing. On mine there were 8 bolts, 4 big 17mms up top and 4 smaller 14 mms on bottom. The two hiding by the slave cylinder and the one by the exhaust pipe were the hardest to find. The two at the top are the hardest to unbolt, but there weren't quite as bad as I thought. Others have talked about using extensions and approaching from the rear. I just slid my dainty, presidential hands in between the fire wall and the head and was able to get a 17 mm wrench on them and get them started with a cheater bar. I tackled them first, and without any lateral strain on the engine, they quickly became loose to the point I could get them by hand. It took me about an hour to do the first one and 15-20 mins to get the second. If you don't have small hands, find someone who does or try using wobble sockets and extensions. Anyways, pull the 8 bolts off and you're good.

Disconnect motor mounts - At this point I had my engine hoist hooked up to take slack. I removed the motor from the motor mount on the passenger side, and the motor mount from the frame on the driver's side. To remove mount from motor, four bolts in a square pattern, I hit them with an impact and they came right off. OEM mount from frame, there were only two bolts. At this point, the only thing holding connecting the motor was the spline into the clutch.

Removing the engine - Here's what worked and what didn't. We tried tugging and pulling, raising and lowering, but we couldn't get the bellhousing to break apart, to the point where I thought that there might be a secret bolt. I finally got a pry bar in and loosened it a bit, but it still wasn't moving. Then we jacked up the transmission to support it and the gap widened. Finally, the eureka moment. With the engine lowered and the transmission raised there was a decent gap towards the top of the bellhousing. I put my prybar in and slid it down as deep as it'd go. Then I lowered the transmission and raised the engine and it pretty much came apart. A bit more wrangling, prying, and raising, and boom. Engine out.
Once the bellhousing broke apart
The engine, sitting pretty!

Now it's time to rebuild.

gsp4life

Looking good! I was in a similar place as you a year or two ago with very little auto-mechanical knowledge. I learned a lot through yotatech and studying the factory service manual for months (years?)

Anyway, I think your goals of more power will probably be achieved in the engine rebuild without any mods. 135 psi is 36 psi lower than factory, so you're running at only 79% in the 3 good cylinders and 52% in the "bad" one. That's a lot of power to gain back, so keep that in mind before you buy a bunch of expensive add-ons.

gsp4life

Also, that green sensor you thought was broke is probably fine. It's the coolant temp sender for the engine computer (not the one for the gauge on your dash). The harness connector clips on/off pretty easily after enough years go by.

RAD4Runner

Wishing u luck on this hardcore endeavor.
+ 1 on ECU temp sender. There should be a wire clip that runs around the green connector to keep it in place. Since you're rebuilding, good idea to clean all those temp senders, AS WELL AS THE THREADS THEY GO ON.

-Cheeks-

Where she sits tonight. I also pressure washed the crap put of the engine bay, and I'll clean the engine block off tomorrow. There's only one thing holding me up. I cannot for the life of me get the oil pressure sending unit and the knock sensor loose. I am being relatively gentle with a big crescent wrench and I haven't used and PBBlaster because they're sensors. Is there a trick I don't realize? I would have thought they just unscrew.

Sorry for the dumb question, but it's got me stumped

gsp4life

You'll need to get a 27mm deep socket to remove both those sensors.

-Cheeks-

Days 5-6

When I last posted, I was stuck on the knock and oil pressure sending sensor. Eventually, I just got them out by putting a bit of torque on them and keeping my fingers crossed. Probably should have gotten a big 27 mm ratchet but oh well. With those two sensors removed, I moved on to removing the head and removing the timing components.

First things first, finding Top Dead Center

This was a bit of a challenge because not everything was lining up. I spun the crank until the #1 wire was being engaged by the distributor, which coincided with a mark on the crank pulley. So I figured, we're good. But, looking at the cam sprocket, it seemed that the mark for TDC on the cam sprocket was advanced 7 teeth when everything else showed TDC. I hooked up my compression test but at this point with so much removed couldn't get anything to register. So I brought it back to what I had originally thought was TDC, and what I now believe was TDC.
What the distributor looked like at TDC
What the crank pulley looked like at TDC
What the cam sprocket looked like at TDC. I would have thought that that triangle was supposed to be lined up at TDC
This gave me the first clue that there might have been some futzing done with the timing, something that will become much more obvious in a few minutes. But, moving on.

The next step was to Remove the half circular plug. It just pulled right off. Question, is there any way to make this less leak prone?

Remove the cam sprocket bolt - This came right off as well, and after that I was able to remove the cam shaft/distributor drive gear and remove the cam dampener. Finally I removed the distributor drive shaft, leaving the cam sprocket and chain just sitting there.

The next step was to remove the charry cover bolt. This is the bolt directly underneath the distributor drive shaft, usually in a small pool of oil. When I called around different engine shops, the one that impressed me the most reminded me to get this bolt, it seemed like a pretty specific thing in terms of letting me know he was familiar with the 22RE. And he's right, it's not obvious.

Remove head bolts - there is a specific untorquing sequence laid out in the FSM, which I followed. Bolts 1, 2, and 3, loosened with no problems. Bolt 4 was being stubborn, so I dragged up a compressor and an air gun and hit it, and it loosened. Bolt 5 would not budge, even with the air gun set to max. I sprayed some more PB blaster on and loosened the other bolts, all of which came loose except for Bolt 8. So now I was left with two bolts that would not budge. Very carefullyI hit the bolts with a benzo torch for a minute, and then hit them with the air gun again. Nothing. Resigned to the fact that they were most likely welded in, I put a 2ft breaker bar on them, and then put a 2ft cheater bar on the breaker bar. They broke loose! And, after a few more turns, they came off entirely, without breaking. So I got lucky there. My brother, who works as a mechanical engineer for a torque wrench company, told me that while he'd seen big bolts put up huge fights, he'd never seen a 17mm bolt that stuck. And I've been told, some are worse.

With the head bolts off, I removed the head. The gasket looked like it was in good shape, no streaks or anything that would make me think it had failed, although I will examine it again. But, I noticed the coolant passages were pretty severely clogged with gunk, probably that fix-a-leak crap that gets poured into radiators
Coolant passages looking rough
I'm hoping that between myself and the machine shop, I can get them cleaned up. I have a rifle cleaning kit I figure can be put to use in this area.

With the head off, I flipped the engine over and removed the oil pan. Here is where I got confirmation of the half-ass job someone had done during a previous ownership. The oil strainer was almost completely clogged with the remnants of a broken timing chain guide.

So with the oil pan off, I flipped the engine back over and started removing timing components. I removed the crank pulley bolt that I had loosened earlier, and then removed the crank pulley. Four small bolts held it on, and then it came off just by pulling on it, no need to get a pulley puller. I also removed the #1 bypass hose and removed the heater water outlet, the two hoses connected to either end of the water pump. After that, I removed the timing cover. Then I pulled the oil pump drive spline off the crank shaft, and removed the cam sprocket, crank sprocket, and timing chain together.

After that, I removed the chain tensioner, chain dampener, and timing chain guide. It looks like these components are newer, with a steel-backed timing chain guide. So at least that part was good


I also measured the components to see if they were still in spec. All were in spec, but the chain was nearly out. When stretched, I measured the distance between 17 links as 146.9mm. Anything greater than than 147mm is considered out of spec. So the question is, should a timing chain that is only .1mm away from being over stretched be replaced, or is that normal? Chains can't stretch much, right?

All that remained was stripping the rest of the block and pulling out the crank. So I removed the driver's side motor mount, removed the bellhousing support brackets on both the driver's and passenger's side, and removed the lower alt bracket & lower rad return bracket. It was at this point that I realized I had skipped a step, and had to rehoist the block to take the engine stand off. Once I did that, I removed the backing plate, and removed the rear main seal retainer. If I had this to do all over again, I would have removed both of these right as the motor came out, before I put the engine stand on in the first place.

So, that's where it sits this morning. I am ready to pull the crank out, and will be careful to mark all the pieces so that they can be reassembled in the correct place and orientation. I have three questions now, two of which were in that text blob:

1) Any way to improve the leakiness of the half circular plug?
2) Should I replace a timing chain that stretches to 146.9, or is that about normal?
3) What all should I have the machine shop do? Right now I'm specing out getting the block hot tanked, rebored if neccessary, and honed, as well as having the crank polished and cleaned. I am trying to avoid decking the block if I can help it, as I hear this leads to head gasket issues down the road. I'm hoping I can handle the short block assembly myself, so is that all I should be having done on the block, or is there anything else?

RAD4Runner

Awesome hardcore work!
I can only comment on the easy part - LOL! ...
Yes, Arlindsay's (Alexman), and LC Engineering's IIRC, youtube video show using certain silicone sealant on half-moons. No sealant needed on the HG gasket itself.

gsp4life

1). Don't reuse the old half moons, they'll leak again soon after. New ones with Toyota fipg on all sides, including on top where the vc gasket sits should hold it for awhile. Or you can go one step further and buy machined alloy half moons. Several vendors sell their own versions but they're all similar enough. Then you rtv just the bottom curved side of the half moons and don't have to worry about them again.

2). You should replace the chain and probably the whole timing set if you don't know how many miles is on yours. That cam pulley is aftermarket and I've never even seen a photo of that style before. Chains don't actually "stretch" at all, rather the pins slowly wear out the bushings to an oval shape, so the chain measures longer ever though no part got longer. How's the chain tensioner? When you press the damper arm in does it rebound smooth and quick? If not, definitely replace with osk brand (original toyota part) tensioner.

3). The real problem with having the block decked is when it's reassembled with a shaved head and standard thickness headgasket. That increases compression and messes up timing (unless adjustable cam gear is used). If the block isn't flat, you'll have headgasket problems anyway. If it needs decked, the timing cover goes with it. Ask them to remove the crank galley plugs before it's hot tanked. Get the rods inspected. They might need new pin bushings and/or big end resized. Also not a bad idea to have your intake and exhaust manifolds measured for flatness. My intake was fine, but the exhaust was warped as hell.

If you could handle dissasembly, you'll be fine when it goes back together as long as you follow the manual and have a good torque wrench.

-Cheeks-

Dude, thanks! I think the EngnBldr set comes with new timing stuff anyways, might as well install it. And I'll work with machine shop to get all that squared away. I haven't found any that have blown me away, if anyone knows of any in Bucks County, PA or the surrounding area that is reputable, I'm all ears. And I'm in need of one, as I finished the teardown today!

Day 7

It took a week but teardown is complete.

Today I knocked out disconnecting and removing connecting rods and pistons. I tried to put hose on the rod bolts before I pushed them through, although one pushed through as I was putting the hose on, but I don't think it contacted the journals. Fingers crossed. But, out they came
Halfway through
I made sure I kept track of what direction everything was facing. On mine at least, all of the connecting rod and rod caps had a 7 and 2 on the driver's side. I pulled the #4 piston last, the cylinder that was down to 90 PSI of compression, and voila! The second ring was broken. So that explains that, hopefully

Broken ring
Next, I tackled removing the main bearings. This proved to be relatively straight forward, except for #3, which was stuck in tight with the thrust washers. What I did to remove it was hand screw the main bearing bolts back in partially, and then place a little slotted steel thing on top. Through that slot I put the bolt that holds the oil strainer back into the bearing cap and started screwing it down, and out popped the bearing. Not sure if that's the best way, but it was easy enough and took the bearing straight out.

Also, while removing everything, I checked the clearances with Plastigage as per the FSM. Every bearing came out as slightly less than .025mm, which is the low end of the clearance tolerance. So if it's not quite as wide as it should be, that means excessive clearance, which means things are worn out, right? Here's what one looked like, they were all about this small

Or maybe I just wasn't Plastigaging correctly. Either way, I have a bare block! Well, almost. I still need to pull out the dipstick and I'll ask the machine shop feller if he wants me to pull out the freeze caps as well. But yeah, hard stuff is out. I'm meeting with a shop tomorrow to discuss the work I want done. He seems legit, when I asked him how comfortable he was with the 22RE he told me to remember the charry bolt under the distributor drive shaft, which seemed pretty specific. He's also the only place that has seemed interested and helpful. But he has no reviews on the web whatsoever, so there's that.

More later, but at last Phase One is complete!

gsp4life

It looks to me like the plastigauge is reading nearer the .051 clearance range, but the shop can measure more accurately.

Don't worry about the freeze plugs, they'll pop them out in a minute.

Nice work getting everything torn down and labelled correctly. I'd go with a shop that knows the engine, that's not as easy to find in PA. Online reviews don't mean much. The shop I used had great reviews but made a few errors and caused me several extra weeks of waiting in the process. They also charged me $500 over what I was quoted and wouldn't budge after the work was done. Out of curiosity, what's the quote from these guys?

-Cheeks-

I'm getting a quote from the shop today. The other two shops I talked with quoted almost the exact same, which was: $550 for hot tanking, honing, reboring, cleaning, and a crank polish. +$150 if the block needed to be decked.

Hoping that's normal

gsp4life

I didn't see anything in there about connecting rods. Unless they're included in that figure, it's a little high. The rods might be fine, but they should at least measure the ends.

-Cheeks-

Yeah, I'm hoping that includes the rods as well, I was hoping to spend no more than $500 on the machining.

Also, any recommendations on other things I can knock out with the engine gone? I was thinking about replacing the main seal on the transmission since it's right there, anything else I should do while I've got the space?

scope103

The FSM says standard is 0.025-0.055mm, with a max clearance of 0.100mm You did torque as called for in the FSM, did you not?

I've never used Plastigauge, but I agree that in your photo it looks more like 0.051. Which is still within the "standard" range, which is pretty good for an engine of that age!

The shop will measure it the same way (Plastigauge), but since they have more experience (a whole lot more than me!) they can probably do a better job.

gsp4life

I cleaned up the entire engine bay while I had the engine out. Scrubbed and painted a bunch of brackets, hard lines, plates and other parts. Spent a good deal of time on the hundreds of grimy fasteners to assure correct torque readings during reassembly.

If your bellhousing had oily crud coating the inside it's a good idea to replace the trans input shaft seal and it's retainer gasket. If the shift fork bellows aren't in good shape, now's the best time to replace it.

-Cheeks-

Well, the block is off with the machine shop. I have no idea what to expect, he's incredibly hard to communicate with but he was recommended and seems to do good work. I'm waiting to hear how much he wants to bore out before I order pistons. Will I need to install the rings on the pistons first, or does he just need the piston for boring?

In the mean time, I'm trying to clean up as much as I can. I took the pressure washer to the engine bay, and knocked off a ton of crap. I had no idea the front plate on my diff was a different color. I also blasted the oil pan, bell housing brackets, dip stick tube, and some other odds and end. While I was letting those dry, I took some kerosene and started cleaning some of the bolts.
Oil pan bolts pre-kerosene In the kerosene bath. They came out pretty clean all things considered
After cleaning a few dozen bolts, I took a first stab at cleaning the intake. I unbolted the throttle body and removed all the sensors, and hit the inside of the tubes with some brake cleaner, then the power washer. The inside of the intake was seriously dirty, and I'm wondering if this might be the cause of, or at least related to, the rich smell that I was getting. I'll work on the throttle body tomorrow with some throttle cleaner

Intake looking rough
Throttle body gummed up
A closer look. I'm going to have to scrub this up
Anyways, the going was slow today and it's not nearly as sexy as an engine teardown, but progress is bring made. I'm about to leave for a work assignment for three weeks, which is the time I'm hoping the machine shop can knock out the block. I just need to get on the same page with him about what he needs

-Cheeks-

Day 8-9

Pretty much the last days I'm going to be able to work on it for a while, I have a three week work trip, during which time hopefully my block and crank are machined.

I've got pretty much everything cleaned up, painted a fair amount of it, and I'm about to order my Engnbldr parts. Hopefully I'll remember how to put it back together.

Tomorrow I need to disassemble the pistons to get the rods to the machine shop. I'm assuming they're floating pins, and all I have to do is pop that clip out to pull the wrist pin out, right?

Anyways, here are some pics of what I've painted so far. I need to touch up the EFI as I think the clear coat came on a little strong







I'll update once I'm back in the garage in a few weeks