motor bogs while driving
 

Hey guys, I need some help!!

I did a search and didn't find too much related to my issues. I have an 88 4runner with a 22rte motor. I'm not much of a engine guy, I understand the basics of how they work and that's about it. Please dumb things down for me if you have any solutions or suggestions :)

Now on to the problem... With the motor running, I can blip the throttle under the hood and everything runs fine. The motor revs up fast and smooth like it should. But, when I drive it and give it anything more than 1/3 gas, the motor bogs down and acts like it's starving of fuel... If I am easy on the throttle it will get up to speed and I can shift through the gears and everything seems normal, but if I want to get up to speed faster and apply more than 1/3 (ish) throttle, it bogs down pretty bad.

Thanks for any input!!

when's the last time you did a a basic tune up(plugs/wires/filters.) how many miles are on the truck?

I have yet to do anything to the motor other than put the factory exhaust manifold and turbo back on it. The previous owner did some shady things to it. I only put about 10 miles on it since. It's been in my garage for a while after I bought it and I was doing suspension work on it. Now it's motor time and I'm dumbfounded :)

ahhh! thats turrible. well yeah start with plugs wires filters and fluids. and lets go from there.

So basically a tune-up and make sure the motor is healthy?

Yup. Who knows once you do that it could run like you just bought it brand new.

I couldn't really tell you, I have not much experience with anything using forced induction. I would however check all my plugs, wires, and fluids and replace as necessary, but only replace what is easiest and cheapest first. Check your timing, I think the 22r should be a 5* advanced (BTDC). smell your exhaust, is is rich or lean? how's it idle, smooth, rough? how's it sound?

Like I said, I don't have enough experience, but a simple checklist needs to be made to acquaint yourself with the way the motor sounds and feels, along with anything cheap that needs to be fixed, which will help you in troubleshooting it with somebody a bit more experienced. I hope this helps a little.

have you tried changing the fuel filter? my 86 sr5 did the same thing & i changed the filter & it cured my problem

So... I replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs, plug wires, dist. cap and rotor and it's doing the same thing still. I did some trouble shooting with my dad on the phone (he's the engine guy in the family). After looking at the timing chain he's thinking that's the problem. I put a breaker bar on the crank pulley and was able to turn the crank a good 10-15 degrees before the cam would move. Also, there's about a half inch of slop in the timing chain on the driver side of the motor. However, on the passenger side of the motor, where the tensioner is, the chain is tight. How do I inspect the timing chain to see if it's good or bad?

If I have to replace the timing chain, I don't have the money to buy a good kit from DOA or LC engineering. I would be looking at getting a $50 kit from advance or oriellys. I know a metal backed chain guide is better, but, am I looking at fatal destruction or something bad happening if I use a cheaper kit from a local store?

I checked out my chiltons manual and it said I needed to remove the oil pan and cylinder head to replace the timing chain. I have also searched and found posts where people did this job without pulling the above parts. What are my pros and cons to doing this job without pulling the head. I'm really not wanting the extra expense of a head gasket and machining the head for a better copper head gasket. I just need to get this pos on the road as soon as possible without draining the bank!

Thanks for all the help so far guys! Keep the info and advice coming :)

You can replace the timing chain with out removing the head, if the oil pan is dropped a little. If the chain guide is broken the pan will need to be removed to clean the oil pickup screen any way. The head gasket will need changed some time depending on the miles ,because it is better and cheaper to do it before it goes bad.

Would bad timing cause the motor to over heat? If the motor runs for about 15 minutes I have to turn it off before the temp gauge needle hits the red.

Also, I put some seafoam in the gas tank to clean the injectors and it does run better and it has a little bit of a better power response. I'm just concerned about how long the liming chain will last and the over heating now.

*sigh* I wish I knew more about these motors. I love my 4runner and the rte motor in it, I just know nothing about them :(

My 88 v6 did similar things, when not in gear, I could rev it just fine, when in gear and under load and giving it throttle it would bog down.

Did a full tuneup like you, still didn't get better. Eventually unplugged the o2 sensor to see if it made a difference and it did! So I ordered a new o2 sensor and the truck runs good again.

So I'm about half way done with the timing chain. I didn't use the DOA or any special chain, just the cheapo from orielly's. If it gets me 10k miles I'll be happy. I don't have the loot for a good one right now and I need to get this thing on the road by Sunday. I played around with the timing on the distributor before I did all this and was able to get things a little better so I feel that the timing chain was the culprit of this disaster! Hopefully this will fix it... we'll see.

I ended up not pulling the head, but the head gasket separated a little from the head. There isn't any tears in the gasket, and the gasket appears to be in good shape. Hopefully nothing goes wrong on the re-installation.

If anything else goes wrong with this damn motor, I'll be tempted to pull the thing and rebuild it top to bottom to I will feel confident that it's a good solid motor... hopefully it doesn't come to that.

So... I'm almost done with the timing chain. I came in for lunch and it's a good time to ask another question :)

I looked at the old timing chain and compared it to the new one. The old one isn't visible worn, stretched, or damaged at all when comparing it to the new one. The new chain tensioner feels like it's got more "spring" to it than the old one. Even the old plastic chain guides look brand new when pulled.

So my question is: If something was bad on the old timing chain, would it be obvious? I would hate to do all this work in vain. I will know that the motor has a good timing chain, but I don't like fixing things that aren't broken :(

Well ˟˟˟˟!!

I replaced the timing chain and got her cranked up, I timed it to 0* TDC and it idles great, revved up great. I took her for a test drive and the power was a bit better but still no dice! She is still very hesitant any time I ask her to put out some power.

Oh, one more thing... my dumb ass used blue rtv for sealant and not the red or black stuff so now my timing chain cover and probably my water pump, oil pump, and oil pan are leaking... Fur sure my timing chain cover is leaking, but I'm sure everything else will start to leak too. I hate learning about motors, it's getting expensive!

So, it still bogs when I ask her to put out! Maybe I need to adjust my AFM and ask for more gas?

Oh, almost forgot! After I took it out for a test drive and came back home I was going to advance the timing a couple degrees (before I noticed the oil leak) and it starting to bog at an idle. Now when I start it, it wants to bog down hardcore and barely run (at an idle) unless the timing is advanced at like 10 degrees.

WTF is the problem with my poor 4runner? I'm tired of dumping money into this thing and not seeing any progress :(

have you tried this yet? sounds like it could be a bad o2 like he said

Not trying to hi-jack this thread but im having the same or similar problem with mine. Going to check out my o2 sensor next as well. Check out this video I took of mine earlier, does your do something like this??
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jx0afEFrleg

I unplugged the o2 sensor and it still does the same thing. I swapped out AFM's to see if maybe the afm was giving a bad signal, same thing...

Could dirty injectors cause this? I wanna say it's a fuel delivery issue but my limited knowledge in this still leaves me clueless. I don't want to have to take this to a shop and pay someone $1000 for something that I should be able to do on my own.

hmmm. mine does a similar thing when it gets too hot. it's kind of worked itself out, rewiring my fuel pump helped alot.
here's my thread I started on it. has alot of troubleshooting help. hope it helps ya
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...r-22re-208506/

I may be wrong but I wouldn't think that's it. I drove the 4runner about 200 miles when I first bought it a year ago. Now that it's out of the garage (parked for a year) it runs like doodoo! I may be wrong but how would a fuel pump change in that time from just sitting?