Manual Door Lock Problem
 

I have a 95 4runner and I can't seem to use my key to lock/unlock the doors. It appears that the door lock themselves are worn somehow. Anyone else have this issue and if so, how did you fix it. It is worse at cold temperature. I have tried both old and new keys, but have not tried WD40 and/or graphite yet. Just wondered if this is a common problem.

Tx,
Bill

Original key or copy? When I had the spare cut for my '93, they had to redo it like 5 times to get it to work, and it's still pretty stubborn in the passenger side, works ok in the drivers door and great in the ignition.

Do not use WD40 in the lock cylinder - it will gum things up.

tc,

I am not totally sure, but would guess it is a worn original which I made the copy from. I wonder if I can somehow get an original copy. Thanks for the warning on the WD40. I might try some graphite instead.

Bill

For older cars/trucks you can go to the dealer and get a key code that was assigned to the vin of your truck. then 1 of 2 things. 1) he can cut a key from that code, or 2) youll have to take it to a real locksmith (not HD or lowes) and have him cut a key from the code.

If your lucky they will have a machine they put the 4 digit code into and just punch the key. If not the locksmith will take 20 min cross refrenceing all kinds of key books to manually cut it on a cutting machine. (ask me how i know)

Ive used wd40 in mine a number of times. Helps significantly and have had no problems with them.

If the Dealer that sold truck does not have key code. The passenger door lock cylinder has the key code stamped on it, letter and 4 numbers.

I had this problem and a graphite spray worked.

Troy

Well, I just noticed that because of the tough lock, my key is slightly bent. I am going to look into a new original key(new and original seems wrong). I do notice that the key works better in the passenger side door and the rear window. That is why I assumed it was an issue w/ the lock wearing out.

Troy,
I have seen the graphite in a tube, but not the spray.

Rudestar,
Do I need to remove the door panel to get to the "door lock cylinder""

Thanks for all the info.
Bill

Yes, you need to remove the door panel and be careful that you don't lose the retaining clip for the lock cylinder when you remove it.

Good Luck

Troy

Mine were like that too. Worked in the summer although still tight, wouldn't work at all when cold. Problem was *probably* that someone used WD40 on them. Never put anything liquid in a lock. Use lock graphite.

Remove the locks (pita to be sure) and flush them thoroughly with brake clean. Then relube with graphite. You *could* actually do this on the car, but I am hesitant to spray brake clean all over my paint <grin> in case it might harm it.

But if you do remove them, while you have access, clean and lube all the moving parts. Use spray lithium lube, it penetrates and foams and leaves a nice grease behind.

To remove door lock cylinder pull trim panel. Remove bolts from outside handle and tilt bottom out to access wire retaining clip. Push cylinder out of handle. Be gentle with plastic retainer that holds rod to cylinder. Code is stamped on top. Handle cylinder gently as stainless key opening snaps in place and loves to pop out allowing spring loaded door to fallout. If you need any parts I have anything you might need cheap.
Worn key is a common problem. Get a spray can of lock graphite.

Driver's side door does not unlock with key, so I have to open passenger door and then open driver door from inside. If fiddle with key can lock the driver door from outside (and central locking works).Then i used to call Crystal lake locksmith.They help me and make me satisfy with their awesome and enjoyable service.

11 year old thread if not fixed by now the vehicle may have been replaced.