Lower Control Arm Bolt Removal: Redux
 

1994 T100 4X4, IFS. I need to replace my lower control arms due to major rusting, the creation of non-OEM holes and plain rust disintegration of the LCAs. Of course the LCA alignment bolts have seized inside the bushings. Since the nuts came off very easily I made the wrong assumption that the bolts would just pop out with a little force from the nut side. Hah.

Similar to others who have experienced this problem I have tried penetrating liquids, heat and a BMF mallet. The bolts just laughed at me.

So, before I get/rent a reciprocating saw and expensive blades I wanted to know if anybody has tried with success using a C-Clamp Press (sometimes used on other vehicle ball joints) to press the LCA bolts out? I was figuring on putting the threaded end of the C-Clamp on the nut end of the LCA bolt and then a large enough socket to go over the eccentric cam end of the bolt, tighten the C-Clamp stuff with a hand wrench and then use an impact wrench on the business end of the C-Clamp to try to pop the bolt out.

I am just working on the driver's side. I haven't even touched the passenger side but the bolts are probably seized there also. I'm not looking forward to cutting four hardened steel bolts if I can avoid it. I don't care about the bushings or even the LCAs since I have a pair of replacements with decent bushings that I got from a local salvage yard.

Any feedback on this idea? Maybe someone can convince me that cutting the bolts is no big deal. Also, I don't have access to a O/A torch and if I did I would probably end up burning up the truck (which might not be a bad idea at this point).

Try it! It has worked for me in the past. I actually find quite a few uses for my bj press kit... #1 use being to compress seized caliper pistons :D

I ran into the same problem. Yours sounds much worse...

After trying the hammer and lube approach I ended up using Carbide friction blades and a saws all. I think $20 worth.. two packages maybe 6 blades of various sizes.. for ONE bolt.

Good luck!

^^ Ouch!

I'm on travel right now but when I get back I'll try soaking the bolts over night with some ATF/Acetone mix in a rag (if the weather permits) and give the ball joint tool a try (or two).

Does the bolt spin in the bushing? Can you break it free by twisting?

Have you tried Kroil as a penetrating oil?

I had the same problem with my 90 pickup when i was trying to put a lift kit on. I tried using a gear puller to push the bolts out but ended up bending the part of the frame that the control arm bolted on to. You might have better luck with the c clamp but I would just say cut them out and then burn the bushings out of your lca.

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Nah, the bolt does not spin in the bushing.
It twists a little but it also twists the bushing. I probably melted some of the rubber when I was heating the bolt.

I haven't used Kroil in many years, maybe 15+, but I'm probably going to order a can or two. I have had good luck in the past with a 50-50 mix of ATF and acetone as a penetrating solvent.

Just going through the same thing on my rig. Had to cut the bolts out with a torch.

You're chances of getting that bolt out clean are slim to none.
I tried to install a 4" suspension lift on my truck.
I tried every non-destructive method.
Breaker bars, impacts, penetrating oil, BFH, pullers, you name it.
I ended up putting the stock suspension back on and leaving the suspension lift off.

I say cut 'er out.

Okay, it looks like I'm going to fail with the c-clamp idea and will need to cut the bolts, but I'll give it a shot.

However, I know that I'll probably put a stick in a hornet's net but can anybody recommend what blade I should get? I don't want to mess around with some crap that will take 10 blades to get through one bolt.

TIA

You will need an expensive blade that will cut hardened steel. Just go with the Carbide coated blades. I think you will end up spending less in the long run. I went with stuff from Harbor Freight, Maybe try asking around at your local Lowes or Home Depot or something like that for what might work. The employees might have a better answer.

I've not looked at the geometry of the problem, but if space permits, a carbide wheel in a 10,000 rpm angle grinder will usually make short work of any bolt. You might need two or three wheels for the project, but they're only a few dollars each if you can maneuver them into the right position. Just make sure you wear good eye and face protection if you go that route. Full face shield (along with leather gloves and long sleeves) is best.

I found this on youtube. This guy is confident that his way to remove them will work on any vehicle.

Here is part 2 of this guys video. Hope this helps you out!

^^ I guess its worth the try ^^

But here are the problems:
- The bolt ends are on the inner side of the LCA horse shoe. You don't have enough room to get an impact driver directly in there. Maybe a 1/2" swivel joint would still provide enough impact at an angle.
- The eccentric on the end of the bolt head will not allow the bolt to turn 360 degrees, maybe 45 - 60 degrees max. But it might just be enough to loosen the rust bond.
- At this point the bushing is moving with the bolt. Not good.
- The bushing is doing what it is supposed to do, absorb some of the shock from impacts. Not good again.

PS: This forum really messes up my Firefox browser. It is now running at 99% CPU. Weird

I'm going to be feeling your pain soon myself. I have to eventually change the bushings on my 91 truck also. The inner sides of my tires are wearing excessively. I'm only getting 12,000 miles out of a 50,000 mile tire. I took it in for an alignment but the guy at the alignment place told me he needed to replace the bushings and the left and right LCA. DAMN DESERT DUNNY WHOMPING!!!! I'm gonna pay for that fun now!!!!

Sorry I don't have any other advice for you.

I will view your post more to see how it turns out since i have to do it also...... eventually!! Post some pictures of the job. I think that would help all of us on the yota forum.
Good Luck,
Todd

Sounds like you need a truss brace on the frame. IFS frames can twist (permanently) when subjected to shock loads like dune jumping, which will cause your tires to splay out and wear the insides.

Google "ifs truss brace :yotatech/f116" for more information. Your LCA's may be fine once you get the frame straight again.

I cut them out.
 

I'm waking up an old post. Sorry if I offend anyone.

The weather has turned good enough that I have been able to work on the T100 two out of three weekends. On the driver's side I tried everything but cutting out the bolts. The large ball joint C clamp didn't work. I didn't have enough room to get an extra large socket over the cam end of the bolt. The "spacers" that were included with the rented C clamp were also too long to get both ends of the "C" on the bolt. A BF mallet didn't do anything either even with the help of heating the bolts with a MAPP torch. So I finally bit the bullet and went the reciprocating saw route.

I found a nice "low mileage" Makita saw at a local pawn shop for $20. It is a variable speed and the reason the pawn shop let it go for that price is that it used an Allen screw to hold the blades instead of the newer type clip. I purchased a 5 pack of LENOX Gold 6114G - 6" 14TPI Titanium Edge LAZER blades from Amazon ($18.47 - free ship). I wore the teeth down to nubs on one blade but that was my fault; too much pressure and too fast of a speed. I eventually found out IF I could get the blade on the outside of the bushing "washers" and just inside of the frame it really shortened the cutting time. My first cut I had the blade on the inside of the washer and I ended up cutting both the sleeve and the bolt. That is about 1" of hardened steel and a good 45 minutes of cutting. My other three cuts I was able to just cut the bolt and not the sleeve and it took under 10 minutes for the blade to cut through. I was then satisfied with the results.

That was on the driver's side. I was lucky on the passenger side. The rear bolt popped out with just some blows with a ball peen hammer. The front needed some heat with the MAPP torch and the BF mallet but that finally came out without too much difficulty.

I can totally recommend the Lenox blades. They cut through the bolts like a knife through butter. The secret is to go slow, let the weight of the saw apply pressure, keep on the outside of the bushing washers and keep the blade lubricated with cutting oil.

I also purchased a 5 pack of 18TPI blades but I never needed to use them. Maybe I'll need them to cut some cast iron pipe in the future. Otherwise, I guess it was good insurance.

Thanks for all of your suggestions and support - Mark

PS: For some reason, there is more corrosion on the driver's side, front to back. I wonder what that's all about? Maybe the old leaking power steering hose kept the passenger side from more significant rust. I dunno.