Looking for part #s/bolt sizes.
 

Hey folks, just trying to tie up odds and ends on my 3VZE rebuild. First off, I need new plate guard bolts. The plate guard (or what I call it) is the guard that you have to remove if you want to work on really anything under the car. Can anyone confirm the sizes or maybe a OEM #? Next, the valve cover bolts. I need two, I've been using a hardware store one, but the head size is different, and its just good to have a unified reinstall. Final, bonus round, from the exhaust manifold->cat tube, we had to cut the flange off since the darn thing wouldn't come apart. Now, we are looking for the three bolts and nuts to secure it again. If anyone has the info I need, please holler at me. :wave:

The Tool catcher bolts are M8x1.25 @ 25 or 30MM

Not sure of the valve cover

The Exhaust bolts are M10x1.25 @40mm

Toyota makes some nice Stainless steel lock nuts M10x1.25 that work great on exhaust applications

The lengths are hard because I just go to my Bolt bin if they are to long or short I just get what I need

I just got some exhaust header studs & nuts, plus a few for the crossover. Got them from (I think) something like toyotapartsonline or laketoyota. Like about < $2 / bolt. Compare to the dealers in the Denver area, about $7 each. What?? They also have the diagrams and part numbers, which looks like there's a superseded part number for a class of studs.

Anyway, I won't be back to CO until Thurs probably, so can't recall exactly where I ended up gettin' em. Be glad to repost after that, though.

How did you lose the bolts to the brush guard in the first place? Because the threads in the frame got buggered up. Wyoming9 gave the right size, but you might find that they don't have enough thread in the frame to catch.

As for the valve cover bolts, you are now learning the difference between "standard" metric bolts (with an 13mm head) and "JIS" bolts with a 12mm head. (I have an 8mm nut on my EGR valve that takes a 13mm wrench instead of 12mm.) Bolt Depot https://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_JIS...25mm.aspx?nv=l claims to carry them; if you order from them let us know how it works out. You're lucky your hardware store carries metric bolts at all, even if they are the "standard" ones.

I don`t buy them from my Hardware store but they stock JIS Bolts because of the demand .

My Supplier went out Of Business I am going to try Bel Metric once I get a few hundred dollar order.

Note the "1.25" part of the description. Most metric bolts you find around town are going to be 1.50 pitch. At least around here. Most Toyota bolts are 1.25, at least up to M12.

Interesting. An ISO Standard "coarse" M8 thread is 1.25, and an M10 is 1.75. An M8-1.50 is a thread pitch I've never seen, not on my truck or any place else. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/me...ads-d_777.html

Nor will you ever see one. I forgot we were talking about the pan bolts. Scope is correct about the M8s It's the 10s and 12s I was referring to being 1.25s on the Toyota's as opposed to 1.5s. I believe standard M10 course thread pitch is 1.5 and the M12s are usually either 1.5 or 1.75 depending on the application.

Either way though. The point I was trying to make was that your M8 through M12 bolts are 1.25.

Ok, thanks guys for the AWESOME stuff. I think this might work for the valve cover:
https://www.belmetric.com/8mm-c-2_10...75cn1sp22mpb96
does that length look good?

valve cover bolt size
 

Hey. So my day off, and went into garage looking for my bags of bolts. Can't find the bags with stuff from the 95, but the 94 I got. Missin' other stuff too. Bummer.

So the bag labeled valve cover Left Side has bolts that are same size as my tap labeled 6mm x 1.00 Got the pitch guage and it also matches: 1.00 mm (guess that means 1mm between valleys or peaks?). "wavelength" i guess!

And they are shoulder bolts, with the hex size a 10 mm wrench. And they are 20mm long.
Sorry it took a while to check, was pretty rough traveling back yesterday.

Awesome dude. Bel metric should be getting an order from me shortly. Another question for the forums. I know I've seen this somewhere, but I'm looking for the knock sensor connector from the wiring harness to the pigtail. just the connector. I cannot for the life of me find the darn thing.

FYI

There are (as far as I know) at least TWO "metric" standards.
JIC
DIN

The DIN is "German" and often US
The JIC is "Japanese"

The standards specify things like HEX HEAD size for a given bolt
In general, the JIC are a 1mm smaller head than the same bolt in DIN

Also, the JIC run a "finer pitch" thread on many bolts
So A JIC 10mm is usually 1.25 where as a DIN may be 1.5

Things you should know when you spot that Metric Bolt assortment at the store. You'll want the JIC, tho DIN will work in a pinch if the thread pitch is the same

"JIS", not JIC (JIC is a flare coupling, with SAE threads http://www.borderhydraulics.com/2013...ead_id/jic.htm ).

In the United States, you're more likely to see ANSI/ISO standard metric threads.

The JIS head is 1mm smaller than DIN only in M8 size. https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-i...head-size.aspx I have plenty of M6 bolts where the head size is 10mm in all three standards.

Coarse, Fine, and Extra Fine are defined in all three standards (and are the same), but as was pointed out JIS M12, for instance, is commonly used with Extra Fine 1.25mm pitch.

What you want is the correct size and pitch fastener; the thread forms are the same for all ordinary metric fasteners. JIS-sized heads are an improvement if you can get them, but even though I live in a big city I've never seen them in a hardware store. So I take what I can get.

JIS Japanese Industrial Standard

knock sensor pigtail
 

I'm not certain there is such an animal. I bought an entire pigtail (I think I spent like $20 bux online, definitely not the local dealer!) to go with my new sensor, and plug into the old harness. I did thoroughly ohm out the entire old harness, checking for frayed, old, corroded wires and connectors. Which was good, because I discovered I was missing a connector. Not a biggie, who needs a backup light switch?? Now, finding that little bugger was a good time (the connector, not the switch).

So its sort of a ying/yang thing with the connectors. No two different connections use the same physical connector, so chimps like me can't plug the wrong wires into a given connector. But, you gotta find the right connector type if yours is bad or missing.