Rue86

So I'm contemplating what to do with my truck, since it's the winter months and I'm looking to improve its performance off road.

Let's check out the options...

Stock. I've got some 34 x 10.50 Swampers under it on the factory suspension, with some cutting of the fenders, and some clearancing on the inner fenders. The sway bar is removed, and it works pretty decent for the time being.

Long travel. Like Total Chaos. Seems to give improved flexibility, but I'm not sure how well it would hold up under extreme conditions?

SAS. Seems to be the ultimate way to go. Bout on the same cost as the total chaos kit. My one worry is, how reliable is it on the road? Who has done it, and can you confidently drive it a long on the road?

Just looking for some opinions on what the best way to go is. I'm not looking to set up a pure rock crawling rig. More of a jack of all trades, master of none. I can live with that! I intend to take it into the mountains of Colorado, and hopefully get it to the woods of Kentucky.

Thanks for the help!

MaK92-4RnR

honestly? it comes down to what you wanna do it with. If you're not looking to set up a pure rock crawling rig... more of a jack of all trades, I'd stick with stock. Its what I'm doing with my 4runner being that it is my DD.

Rue86

That's really what I'm thinking. I'm really a budget builder, something I picked up while stationed in Kentucky. You can do surprising things on 33" tires, which is what I'll probably go to. However, I'd like to run a wider 12.50 tire, and I'm not sure how much rub id have, and what the best backspacing would be for it, should I stay stock.

Junkers88

As MaK92 said it all comes down to what you want to do.

You can leave it pretty much stock and go lots of places.

If you plan on a little snow now and then with most of your runs being either mud or smaller rocks then I'd recommend a mild lift (1.5" at most), some good tires in 33/12.50/15, perhaps a regear so it isn't too much of a pig on the highway and a locker for the rear.

My 89 (specs in the signature) is my budget built dd/camping rig/weekend trail ride. I take it to and from work every day, hit a trail once or twice a month and take it on long camping/fishing trips (3-4 hour drive one way) as much as I can during the spring and summer. The only issue I have with it right now is that the tires that are on there are terrible in icy conditions.... got stuck this weekend on some 10" deep slick snow.


I guess my best advice is to decide on an end game for the rig and build towards that. You'll save money doing what you want the first time out.

rattlewagon

you can fit 33 12.50 with out rubbing if you pound the pinch weld flat (what i did) . but it sounds like you have already clearance some.

so what about a bj space for the front and a AAL for the rear. Combined with a budbuild tcase skid to tuck the belly up a bit and a locker for ther rear and youll be good to go just about anywhere. woull be amazed how much farther you can go with just a locker.

dark_fairytales

When it comes down to it. suspension is the least of the things you should be considering. Drive Train mods will get you further every single time. Even armor will allow to get in spots that a suspension mod will not. I know i got off topic some, but there are other routs to consider when if comes to off road mods. Just make a goal to aim for and do baby steps to get there. You will feel more confident in your decision making in the future if you keep that in mind.

eighty5yota

are you 2wd? no point in SAS'n there.. unless you convert to 4wd..

i want a LT 82 sr5 ::::drool::::

fireman1559

i second this armor should be first then locker then lift i went with rough countrys 4in lift kit and loved every bit of it and also the PO had a 3in bod lift on the truck so i neted about 7ins of lift so i had a good bit of lift. in hindsight i should have done a SAS with about a 4in lift and would have that love that more.

Island_Yota

My 88 4runner is completely stock down to 28" all seasons, its taken me a lot of places and im really impressed with it. If I decide to keep it I have a little list of things I want to do.

31's, something aggressive
Rear bumper with a better departure angle
Small body lift (1.5") so I can tuck the gas tank up higher
Selectable rear locker


I have a solid axle truck aswell(83 SR5) with some lift, 35's and a locker but I like the 4runner better so far, it has its limitations but its still a lot of fun.

Rue86

Thanks for the really good advice. I am planning to regear, but the ration depends greatly on what I decide to run for tires. Looking like 4.88's and a Detroit in the rear (unless somebody recommends otherwise).

I've already checked out BudBuilt skids, mainly for x-member protection. Rocksliders are part of the plan as well. Great pivot points when your in a pinch in the woods! As for the transfercase skid, how does it tuck up? It is just a better designed skid than the factory unit?

Thanks for the help guys! Keep the advice coming!

tc

Is it a truck or a 4Runner? What year, and what kind of condition is it in?

Because, here's the thing - there aren't that many trails in Colorado (and less in KY) that REQUIRE and SFA ... and those that do, aren't scenic and DO require body/mechanical damage.

I have done Holy Cross (IMHO, the hardest scenic trail in Colorado) with stock suspension, 33's, and front/rear locker - in other words, I don't think many people NEED more rig than that in Colorado.

That said, if you want to drop money into suspension (and I agree with the above that money is better spent on armor and gears/lockers) then long travel IFS is the best "all around" solution out there.

Rue86

The cab is in good shape, minus cut fenders, and the bed is gone, to soon be replaced by a flatbed between the frame rails. It was rusted out enough to only be held together by rhino liner!! There aren't many trails in Kentucky, true, but I know plenty of people there with farms and private land that have excellent wheeling. I've seen IFS rigs excel there, especially with the right combo of tires. Denman buckshots up from with cut boggers or tractor tires in the rear. It's good to hear that 33s can handle the trails in CO, which is where most of my time will ultimately be spent. I'm not too worried aobut body damage. I plan on armoring it accordingly, especially around the doors/door frames. I HATE doors that done open. Had that experience on my K5 back in KY. That truck sure was a beast though!

tacho75

just to let you know the total chaos kit (caddy )was desing with pre running on mind
-desert racing- like baja 1000 kind of race.cause you need fiber glass fenders on front
(wider)like almost 7 inches wider.axle from a t100 if you want to keep the 4x4
some fab.if you want to run coil overs(beter travel).......this kit it's to go fast offroading
if you go with the -sas-that it's a diferent ball game..trails (rock crawling) SLOW

Matt16

Stock. Add lockers and a buttload of gearing and protect it all with armour.

abecedarian

True that the TC kit seems to be more at home at high speed in the desert or dune but another option over the TC LT kit is blazeland. They're based off stock control arms and are orders of magnitude cheaper than TC. Likely going to be my next lift investment with my 88, once I figure out what to do with the rear axle, which will probably be a T100 axle and blocks with some sort of ladder or torque bar.

peow130

Abe i said in a post before you should just use the 63" chevies...

abecedarian

So they'll get me 8" lift? I've already got me a 4" ProComp bracket lift installed, so the LT kit will be used in conjunction with the ProComp kit.

... so you're suggesting using 4" lift springs for a Chevy on my 88 4Runner?

sorry... O/T chat back in to PM land.

AlexJet

I had some debates over this a year ago - if I should plan for SAS or do LT. I decided to go with LT and happy with my choice.
LT will remain all your electronics, if you have any. My truck is '05 and has ABS, ATRAC, ... Yours should be easier as its older.
Anyway, solid axle will loose for DD and highway driving over IFS, but will win in hard off-road. Meanwhile if you do slow go over obstacle LT will do just fine as an axle. The main problem with LT is not an LT itself, its your CVs and steering components - they are not that strong as axle links and shafts.
My opinion - if you do drive DD, thne LT 100%. If this is only your trail vehicle and you barelly drive it on paved road, then axle would probably hold longer.
For me it was LT as the truck is my DD and I don't do rock climing, and its still does great in deep forest and muddy trails...

Rue86

Thanks for the all the input. Really helps me make a better decision. As for gearing, aside from cost of parts, what does labor usually run for setup?

Crawdad

You know, I used to disagree with tc on his stance that IFS is fine for most folks, but now that I've done a lot more wheeling in my IFS 4runner, I find myself agreeing more and more.

I mean, on the 4runner it's kind of an easy decision. Throw a locker into the front and rear, put some good tires on, and wheel the piss out of it until you can't any more. If you start running into difficulties that can't be solved with better gearing or armor, then start considering your options with regard to the front axle. The only money you'll lose from going that route is whatever you put into the front axle (gears, locker), and you can more than likely recoup a large percentage of your cost there.

In my experience the limiting factor for most folks' wheeling is the part between the steering wheel and the seat. I've seen some great wheelers do things in stock IFS vehicles that I wouldn't have imagined possible.