Locking Hub Nut
Had a bearing go out on my 1988 4runner and it messed up the hub nut Part # 43533-60010 - problem is this part is no longer made and i can't seem to find it anywhere. Any ideas??
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That appears to be a part number for the fancy nuts used on auto hubs. Do you have auto hubs? If so, used parts from someone who converted to manual hubs may be your only source. You could also convert to manual hubs yourself.
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thats just it - it has manual hubs on it - i agree that the part says for auto but unless i am crazy you have to manually turn the hubs to lock them
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So you need these?
https://www.trail-gear.com/axles/hub...g-nut-kit.html How many nuts do you need? If you just need one or two PM me your address and I'll send them to you, free. |
The "application data" for the trail-gear nuts says that on the 4runners, it works with solid axle hubs only. I am not familiar with that vintage axle or hubs.
Perhaps this drawing will help: https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dl...e-hub-17722056 It seems to show that 43533-60010 is only used on "automatic" hubs (which I understand to be those hubs that engage by driving in reverse). Other than that, I'm no help. |
Originally Posted by scope103
(Post 52421222)
The "application data" for the trail-gear nuts says that on the 4runners, it works with solid axle hubs only. I am not familiar with that vintage axle or hubs.
Perhaps this drawing will help: https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dl...e-hub-17722056 It seems to show that 43533-60010 is only used on "automatic" hubs (which I understand to be those hubs that engage by driving in reverse). Other than that, I'm no help. |
Auto hubs don't disengage in reverse. Wheeled with my buddy many times and he never lost 4WD in reverse. Not sure where that myth comes from. Trail-Gear must have their application data messed up. There are some things that don't make sense. I've swapped the nuts between IFS and SFA before. For peace of mind, buy them from Marlin. Not only do they list them as fitting, they are also cheaper. Plus, Marlin is in my opinion a much better company.
https://www.marlincrawler.com/axle/f...pindle-nut-kit Reverse lights on, front wheels spinning. You'll have to trust me that the truck has auto hubs. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...4cd4f557fd.jpg |
they disengage once the t-case is put in 2wd and then driven in reverse. they also momentarily disengage when changing direction in 4wd, either fwd to rev or rev to fwd. the disengagement is momentary and noticeable if the throttle is moderately (or heavily) applied.
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Originally Posted by arlindsay1992
(Post 52421230)
Auto hubs don't disengage in reverse. Wheeled with my buddy many times and he never lost 4WD in reverse. Not sure where that myth comes from. Trail-Gear must have their application data messed up. There are some things that don't make sense. I've swapped the nuts between IFS and SFA before. For peace of mind, buy them from Marlin. Not only do they list them as fitting, they are also cheaper. Plus, Marlin is in my opinion a much better company.
https://www.marlincrawler.com/axle/f...pindle-nut-kit Reverse lights on, front wheels spinning. You'll have to trust me that the truck has auto hubs. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...4cd4f557fd.jpg |
Yes, I'm familiar with that on other 4WD's.
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There are fancy nuts for the ADD? I never knew? Can someone compare with pics?
How is the original nut? Broken? Bent? Scraped? If there are two identical nuts, like in the manual hub trucks, just use the previously outer locking nut for the bearing and the busted one as a lock nut. |
Originally Posted by ev13wt
(Post 52421272)
There are fancy nuts for the ADD? I never knew? Can someone compare with pics?
How is the original nut? Broken? Bent? Scraped? If there are two identical nuts, like in the manual hub trucks, just use the previously outer locking nut for the bearing and the busted one as a lock nut. |
tember2, you need to post a picture of what you have. Your descriptions haven't quite painted a clear picture of what you're looking for.
For others viewing this thread, auto hubs are different than ADD. Auto hubs are an automatically engaging and disengaging hub. They do what turning the dial on a manual hubs does, but they do it automatically. This was found on first gen 4Runners and corresponding year Pickups. ADD is a system attached to the front differential which uncouples one front axle from the differential. ADD equipped vehicles have no hubs (auto or manual). They use a drive flange which permanently connects the wheel hub to the CV axle shaft. This was found on second gen 4Runners and corresponding year Pickups. Now, auto hubs use different nuts on the spindle than the two standard 54mm hex nuts and star/lockwasher. Here's a picture from the FSM showing what's going on. You can see what I referred to as the fancy nuts. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...038524e2db.jpg And here's a picture from 4X4Wire which shows it after the auto hub body is removed. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...71ea8ec0c6.jpg |
Originally Posted by arlindsay1992
(Post 52421230)
Auto hubs don't disengage in reverse. Wheeled with my buddy many times and he never lost 4WD in reverse. Not sure where that myth comes from. Trail-Gear must have their application data messed up. There are some things that don't make sense. I've swapped the nuts between IFS and SFA before. For peace of mind, buy them from Marlin. Not only do they list them as fitting, they are also cheaper. Plus, Marlin is in my opinion a much better company.
https://www.marlincrawler.com/axle/f...pindle-nut-kit
Originally Posted by wallytoo
(Post 52421232)
they disengage once the t-case is put in 2wd and then driven in reverse. they also momentarily disengage when changing direction in 4wd, either fwd to rev or rev to fwd. the disengagement is momentary and noticeable if the throttle is moderately (or heavily) applied.
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