davemacneil

1990 Toyota 4runner - 22RE, She's pretty rough right now and I'm hoping to have it fairly built/fixed for the summer.

Should i get:

4Runner 90-95 OME & SDORI 4X4 COMBO SUSPENSION KIT 4RUNNER-OPTION1-GEN2 For: $638.65

Description: KIT CONTAINS:
2- OME901-Heavy load rear coil springs
2- OME N72F- NitroCharger Shocks
2- OME N98 -NitroCharger Shocks
1- OMESD33 SteerStabilizer
2- SDORI Coil spring spacers
2- SDORI Ball Joint spacers

Old Man Emu from Australia makes the first 4 items, SDORI of San Diego makes the spacers.
Color:
Notes: only for toyota 4runners 90-95, 2nd generation, gives a 3 to 4 inch lift total


http://www.trdparts4u.com/PD-4RUNNER....aspx?MakeID=1


or


something like a 4" Toyota 4Runner 4WD & 2WD SuperLift Lift Kit 1990-95) for: $1,136.90

This kit includes:

* Drivers side knuckle adapter
* Passengers side knuckle adapter
* Lower control arm front leg cross member
* Lower control arm rear leg cross member
* Drivers side axle relocation bracket
* Passengers side front axle relocation bracket
* Passengers side rear axle relocation bracket
* Sway bar brackets
* Compression stop extensions
* Rear coil springs
* Drivers side upper link bracket
* Passengers side upper link bracket
* Drivers side lower link bracket
* Passengers side lower link bracket
* Track bar bracket
* Compression stop extensions
* Brake proportioning valve relocating bracket
* Drop link extension tubes
* Limiting straps
* Brake hose
* Superlift Superide shocks with boots


http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/catal...ducts_id/70714






What is the pro and cons? Do they both give an actual 4" of lift? Would doing either one of these lifts correct the rear sag and therefore i wouldnt need to get different coil springs?

The reason i'm considering doing a lift now is because to lift the rear its goina cost me around 200$ so im really liking the OME setup for 600$ to give 4" of total lift. But will I still have a sag or are the coils included sufficient to level also?

My plan as of now is to do a 4" lift and get 33" BFG A/T, I dont think i want to go any bigger than 33's but would this still look good? I'm also having a hard time debating on BFG mud's or the A/T, do the muds wear alot worse than the a/t? I can deal with noise but i cant have them lasting 50% as long. Im still in university and plan on doing this over christmas break if I can order the parts in time.

Any 'helpful' reply's would be greatly appericated. If you pick a lift that would best suit my situation could you also tell me what extra things i may need to buy / do to make it go smoothly. Im in Nova Scotia, Canada and off road parts suppliers are hard to come by, If anyone knows of any give me a shout.

tc

Both the BFG A/T and M/T come in 33x10.50, which you can run with NO lift. Spend the $200ish to level the back (I used the Eibach springs), and I'll split the extra $400 with ya. Check your PM box for the address to send the check to.

spaceycayce

well 1st off from experience don't buy Superlift.
A. I put one of these on about 2 years ago. I ended up breaking 2 brackets off of the front kit and I wanna say the control arm in the rear. This Kit also broke my rear axle housing.
B. My friend had a '91 runner...he did the same kit to his and broke his cv axle like 3 x in the first few months. (He sold it for an '88 P/U with a Downey kit.) Now i'm having to spend more $$$ to do it right. Unless you need it (you will know when) I'd save my money for a SAS and keep it stock.
I know there a few inexpensive setups out there for mild lift kits. Read through the forum I'm sure you'll find a few threads.
I agree Keep it stock
If you do want to go with the 4" that should be fine I don't notice much sag in mine. If you want to see pics check out this thread.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/show-off-your-pics-your-95-runner-100163/
I got 33" MTs on it....they seem to wear decently I've got like 30k on them now those pics were like around 15-20k.....with a good mix of both on and off road. ATs might be better for where you live due to their better ability in snow and ice.(I know pro-comp A/Ts are snow rated).

So to sum it up...Superlift isn't worth the price spend it on a SAS kit from trail-gear,allpro,mariln. They all run around 1000-1100 due to inventory reduction sales, I think you get more with trail-gear but there is arguments for and against using them--again see SAS threads and check Pirate4x4 too.
OME-I'm not too sure about them.

1styota4X4

talk to strap22 about the ball joint lift that is what i am going with and it comes pretty recomended. You will also need to get some manual locking hubs with the 1st one. I am not all that knowledgeable of the 2nd lift. But strapp22 has the 1st one and a lot of knowledge about them....Just shoot him a pm he will probably respond tomorrow..

Good luck

norcalsvx

bj spacers with OME and run 33x10.50x15 muds you'll love them

AH64ID

First off the 4" from the OME/SDORI lift is a misnomer... if you were to crank your tbars up for 4" of lift your front CV's would be at an EXTREME angle... the BJ spacers are good for 1.5" of lift, and that already moves your CV angle, the other 2.5" would be tbar crank, and your 4runner would ride like a covered wagon... (if you wheel the BJ spacer lift does not provide any more clearance than stock.. but if you just run a 33x10.50 this wont be an issue)

What width tire do you want to run? You can get a 33 10.50 to fit stock, and just use the BJ spacers and rear springs as a ride height increase, and for the extra droop up front...

If you want to run a 12.50 wide tire you can do it stock, slosurfer, but it will rub a little, and you can either use the BJ spacer/OME to sit higher and more travel, or run a bracket lift.

A bracket lift will provide you with 4" of actual lift. It lowers the entire suspensin setup 4".... your travel amount stays stock, but everything is 4" lower for any given angle on the CV... I have a 4" bracket lift on mine, and despite what the masses say, I really like it. Its a procomp stage II, never had a problem with it. I run 35's, took a little trimming... and havent broken anything...

But if all you want is a 33" tire, and a 10.50 wide is plenty then I would run OME coils out back, and BJ spacers up front with the tbars set to level the truck... cheaper and all you need...

BFG muds wear a little worse, but still wear great...

last question... do you have a need to run chains?

davemacneil

Wow thats alot of good recommendations/ thoughts, Looks like I may now save for a SAS within the next year or 2 and maybe for now ill order the longer downey coils and I'm still not sure about a/t or mud but i think i'll be going the a/t.

The key things were that made me change my mind:
- manual hubs for OME - i like my ADD right now, id give it up for a sas but not a torsion bar crank, didnt know that thats what half of the lift was.
- your travel amount stays stock - i didnt really think of this, i would like more travel and a sas would be the way to achive this.

now can 33''s fit with no mods? or should I go with a 32X11.50R15 will the 1" less get rid of rubbing issues? (i find 4runners are already like a bus to turn around on trails i dont need to give up a few inches of turning for fear of rubbing)

Im rambling....

Im thinking, 1.5" longer HD downey coils, BFG 32X11.50R15, everything else stock

If anyone knows of issues with this setup please voice them.


And thanks again for the help!!! its so hard to choose w/o any input.

slosurfer

One thing to remember about these runners are that the back sits lower than the front. therefore if you lift the front and rear the same amount, you will still have the dreaded "butt sag". I have the bj spacers in the front and left the torsion bars alone 1.5" lift, and in the rear I have cruiser coils that gave me 4.5" of lift. I now have just a slight rake. I guess what I am trying to say, is that you don't have to crank your torsion bars with the OME setup. You could crank them a little to level them out, but then when you have a load in the back you are back with the butt sag. Also the manual hubs are a good thing no matter what. You can still use your add with them. If you were in the snow, You can lock the hubs and still switch from 4wd to 2wd with your add system.

AH64ID

I added manual hubs to the ADD on my 95, it saves the CV's... but its an addition not a replacment. When the hubs are locked you have the same ADD you had before.. only now you can unlock the hubs in summer, on the street.. and save a little gas and wear and tear...

Its the width that causes a lot of issues, I bet a 32x11.50 will fit about the same as a 33x10.50.. just depends on what you use the truck for if you want a little shorter and wider, or taller and skinnier...

davemacneil

how much rear lift do i need to level?

i measured from the tire to the lip on the wheelwell it was 8" on front and only 5" on rear (yes im only running 215's right now, only had it for a few months and thats what the PO had on it.

Should i get both the 2" spacers + downey 1.5" coilS? or would this raise the back too much? How can i get an accurate measurement of the lift i need to level?

What else will i need?
-new shocks?
-brake line?
-brake propitioning sensor drop braket?
-panhard rod drop bracket?

where can i order these? and how do i know what shock size to get?


Looks like i had it all wrong about the manual hubs, ill now be on the lookout for a pair.

Still unsure about the tire issue it seems like 33" x 10.5 x 15 is the way to go i guess since height is the better factor over width of the tire. but i dont want it too look bad with tires that look too skinny.... hrmmm...


Thanks again for the help!! Its hard to make decisions when you know nothing about the issue.

tc

How much from the lip of the rim to the fender opening? Can't really compare the front/rear measurements as the wheelwells are cut differently. Only way to really tell would be measure ground to frame along the straight part between the wheels.

1.5" springs should level it out nicely - back will be SLIGHTLY higher than the front (at least that's how it is with my Eibach 1.5" lift springs). you don't need new shocks or any of that other stuff as you are really putting it "back" to stock.

Check out my photos for 33x10.50-15 on a 2nd gen 4runner with no lift. (The super aggressive tires are 34x9.50 TSL's on 4" backspacing AR767 rims - need some lift and/or some cutting for them, as they rub pretty significantly)

www.4wheelingoh.shutterfly.com/action

davemacneil

Alright looks like im going with the HD 1.5" Downey Coils and BFG A/T or Mud 33x10.50-15 and start saving my money for a SAS.

What are the OME equilivant to Downey Coils? Or is there others? What would you perfer? Cost wise/ Quality wise? Is there any canadian retails of any coils that would achive this shipping is goina kill me esp if its not marked as a gift and gets stuck at the boarder. Free trade my ass.

Thanks for the help

AH64ID

1.5" spirngs, bring you up 1.5" from stock. Stock is about a 1" low rake in the rear. So you should be about .5" above level with 1.5" springs. This does not tell you how much lift you will get, only in realation to where were stock. So you are not putting it back to stock with 1.5" springs... and you could get 3" out of 1.5" springs if you have sagged 1.5".. This is commonly why people say they got 3" from the spings... but really they only got 1.5" and the other 1.5" is from worn out springs.

Spacers will only bring you up from where you are now, and do not fix the worn out springs.

I reccommend getting 1.5" springs and leaving it there. You shouldnt need anything else to acompany those since they are so close to stock.

davemacneil

Would the OME901 coils compare? could they be put on w/o the brake line, brackets and new shocks like the downeys???

The reason I ask is I found a spot Rock Road Outfitters that I can get them bought and shipped for just under $200CDN!! and downeys are just under 200 before shipping and I dont think I can afford like $300 for just a pair of coils


The website says OME901 heavyduty $66.02 ea. 2 $132.04

Order Subtotal: $132.04
UPS Gnd to Canada Shipping: $40.50
Insurance: $1.32
Grand Total: $173.86US or $198.24 CAD

That looks like the ticket, but i just want to make sure that I order everything now that I need to do it, I dont wanna be in the middle of it and need to wait 2weeks for a part. Another nice thing about this site is that i can order online and not have to call or fax, less hassle is always good. Just give me the good word and ill order these, I think itd cost me $600 or so total ship incl. if i got 4 OME shocks + steering stablizer, a lot too pricy for me but if it needs to be done then.... lol itd prob cost me 200$ to put crappy shocks on it so 400 for something decent aint bad.

AH64ID

Those springs are designed for contant 330 extra pounds in the bed, and with that they give 1.5" lift... also know that OME springs are usually taller than advertised, so you may have a good rake in the rear, unless you carry weight.... just a though... I am sure there are people here running them, hopefully they will chime in...

davemacneil

yah im not too concerned if the back is a little higher, my biggest issue is would i need the shocks and other parts because i only have 2.5 weeks home for christmas when i plan on doing this, cant really risk having my DD off the road for any length of time when im at university + i have 0 time for wrenching (as im sitting here waiting for responses im writing a speech/ notes for a business presentation i have tommorrow at 8:00, its 2:15 am right now , luckly its my last year of my BBA.

Thanks for your responses!

AH64ID

I would wait and see where it sits when all done, and after a bit of driving, try to get out and flex it hard to break the springs in... then you can see if you need shocks or pandhard bar drop bracket... my guess is you wont need either, thou new slightly longer shocks wouldnt be bad, but probally not necessary.. as with the panhard bar... see how it tacks and sits for while..


good luck with class, so glad I am done with college...

absolutezero

Regarding the OME901's... I slapped a set on my '95 runner over Thanksgiving. They lifted the rear at least 2"....so much so that I had to crank the Tbars just to get the truck somewhat level. However, the back is still sticking up a bit even with 15.5" between the top of the front rim to the fender. Now I have to order the BJ spacers to level the truck properly.
If you end up buying Downey or OME springs for the rear, make sure you get the panhard drop bracket. You will need it...unless you don't mind the rear axle being offset +.75" to the passenger side.
Lastly, be prepared for a rough ride afterwards. The 901's are so stiff that I swear it feels like my teeth fillings are going to pop out every time I hit a bump in the road.

tc

Not so sure about that - I think it depends ENTIRELY on the manufacturer whether it's 1.5" over sagged or over stock. Probably depends on when they came out with the springs and what they used for a test vehicle...

davemacneil

Ok im going to order just a set of OME901 heavyduty rear coils today unless someone stops me because its a bad idea. The gf is starting to get sick of hearing me debate over what I should do.

Ill prob order these tonight, please feel free to stop me as i have no idea what i'm doing besides trying desprately to get rid of my saggy butt.

Thanks for your help in this thread, i know the topic is a highly repeated one on the board but when your in the situation of spending what little money you have and dont see yourself getting much more for a few months, it makes decision making about things you dont know very stressful lol

Thanks John (AH64ID) for the luck lol the presentation today went great.

-Dave