Lift ?'s
 

Hi I'm a new member here, I have a 90 4runner 3.0 Auto.

I have done some research on here and found out about b/j spacers and cruiser coils.

I have a few ?'s that I counldn't find.

I plan on running B/J spacers up front.

Fj80 Coils in the rear.

Rancho 5167's and 5009's

What I was wondering was if you have to do any brake line modifications,drop brackets,or panhard bar mod's?

Any other info would help too.


Thanks.

Welcome!

Can't help you on your questions.

Sounds like you've got a nice ride!

For your planned front lift...

- Your stock lenght brake lines will be fine, I replaced mine with stockers when I did the lift

- make sure your tie-rod adjuster sleeves are free and able to be moved for your alignment

-Make sure you have new shocks or the appropriate spacers to make your shocks work.

I cant comment on your rear lift questions, I have a pickup ;)

Within 2-3" or so you don't need a new panhard bar. I have about 2" or maybe a tad more and my axle is offset about .75". The effect on drive quality is not noticeable at all.

Brake lines will be fine as well.

Should you feel inclined, here are some instructions on how to do your own alignment. http://www.sdori.com/SDORI_Alignment.htm

It is common to want to do some minor torsion bar adjusting. Search and you can find info on it but you might want to squirt some of that liquid wrench type stuff (name escapes) to help with corrosion frozen adjusters.



Frank

You mean PB blaster Frank?

as far as brackets you dont NEED a panhard drop , but you could grab one... or an ajdustable bar is available too. you can make a bracket for the LSPV its really simple you just need to lift it the same amount as your suspension lift...about 3 inches should work for the fj coils. and you need a longer brake line... just the one that goes down the the axle(the flexible one)

I would say use a panhard bracket for anything over 2 inches same goes for the brake line. Only other thing is to make sure you use shocks that will work with the ammount of lift you are doing... other then that everything else should be fine.

This is so grossly wrong and I cannot belive how many people/vendors/manufacturers think this is the solution. The spring arm on the LSVP should be raised on the threaded pin mount aprox. 14mm per 1" in lift. It is not a 1 for 1. Get a set of pressure gauges and see what happens if you do a 1 for 1 bracket.

so what happeneds when you dont adjust it at all?

It can be adjusted without a bracket?? intresting... 3mm for the standard 2 inch lift coils everyone puts on thats a good thing to know

Oopps, it should be 14mm per 1" in lift.

Actually, you do want to adjust the LSPV sensing rod so that it is in the same position as it was before the lift, at least on the earlier trucks/4Runners. To do that, one option is to raise the end of the rod the same amount as the lift. You can probably adjust the end to compensate for the lift, but you would need to measure the angle of the rod at the LSPV before the lift and then restore that angle after the lift. Might also be able to figure the length change required with some simple trig. I just prefer the bracket, easy to figure out, easy to install and easy to change.

I found out the hard way that the LSPV rod needs to be adjusted/raised when I did my original 3.5" lift, which came with a relocation bracket good for maybe 2" of lift:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/Images/rear_closeup.jpg

Found I had almost no rear brakes until I made a new bracket with the proper (3.5") offset, which restored the rear braking effectiveness.

Later scrapped all that and modified the sensing rod as follows:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspe...ortioningValve

Custom fit LSPV brackets are available below:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...l#LSPV_Bracket

4Crawler is correct. The LSPV rod goes up and down with the axle. If you offset the axle 2", it needs to be raised 2" so it supplies stock brake pressure.

Frank

One more question, do I need to extend my rear sway bar links?

Nope, they are fine. I run 4crawler disconnect which are extended one inch over stock but unless you go with something like this just run 'em stock.

Frank

Check out downey off-road, When I ad my 95 thats who I went through. They have great stuff for 2nd gens.

When looking to raise the LSPV you need to use the end points (round pivots) of the spring arm to draw the triangle. Draw an imaginary line parallel to the axle from the threaded pin pivot of the arm. Use this as the base, the hight is from that line up to the pivot at the valve. You'll notice as this hight increases (from lift) the line parallel to the axle has to increases in length to keep a proper right triangle. THis is one reason why the treaded pin is angled away. Simply correct the spring arm up the threaded pin to the match the new needed base length due to the increase in the hight.

You are way over thinking this. The valve should have been calibrated to respond accordingly to the linkage Toyota designed if Toyota did their job. I mean all the valve knows is the axle went up, rear is loaded brake harder. If it went down, truck unloaded/braking hard, weight forward, apply less rear brake. That's it. It' just a dumb valve.

You want the valve to think the axle is where it was when the truck rolled off the lot so it applies the appropriate brake pressure as it should. If you moved the axle down 2", you need to move that lever arm mount up 2". It's that simple, no trig required.

In fact, that part of the travel that is changing with elevation is the horizontal component, the vertical is constrained by the axle, which is irrelevant here.

Frank

Today I ordered the B/J Spacers and the LSPV drop bracket for a 3" lift from 4crawler.

I am Picking my FJ80 Coils up this weekend.

I was also thinking about ordering the panhard drop bracket from Downey Offroad would you guys recomend this?

Strike that I think I will be ordering the Panhard bracket from 4crawler.

Yes you need the panhard bracket or your axle will be way off.
Yes you need to extend the brake lines, but only the rear.
Yes you should move the LSPV up with a bracket the same amount as the lift you get.
I wouldn't crank the t-bars too much to match the back lift, leave it a little raked or your ride will suffer a lot (trust me it gets rough).
Those shocks should fit very well, good choice as I went with some crappy ones for the first few months.

Edit: Also look into getting some sort of truss for the back of the lower a-arm mounts (Sonoran steel is preferred but he only makes them when he gets so many orders) and an idler arm gusset/brace from downey, makes a big difference and it's worth the money.