Lift Blocks + Parking Brake?
#1
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Lift Blocks + Parking Brake?
Installing 2'' lift blocks to the rear of my '88 4Runner, but its shortening the parking brake cable!
Any quick solutions for this? Or is it safe too leave it?
Anybody encountered this problem before?
Thanks.
Any quick solutions for this? Or is it safe too leave it?
Anybody encountered this problem before?
Thanks.
#4
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Lewiston, Idaho
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Death Cougar has a point! I have 2inch lift blocks on my truck and will be soon changing to add a leaf! But if you dont harcore offroad you might be ok for a while! I havent had any problems with the E break cable at all with 2inch lift blocks!
#5
Registered User
The cable shouldn't present any problems being "shorter" unless your brake shoes start rubbing. Hell....you probably needed an "adjustment", anyway. They usually do after many o' years.
Typically if you lift the suspension in any way, the LSPV rod on the rear axle needs adjusting, too.....to raise the rod upwards again. You lose some of the rear braking power as the proportioning valve senses that the load is lighter than it really is. Might run a search on that.
Typically if you lift the suspension in any way, the LSPV rod on the rear axle needs adjusting, too.....to raise the rod upwards again. You lose some of the rear braking power as the proportioning valve senses that the load is lighter than it really is. Might run a search on that.
#6
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The block made the top of the leaf catch the cable, so instead of being straight it was bowed, seemed ok at that point, but im worried if I go over even a small bump wont it push the cable?
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#9
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Location: Temecula Valley, CA
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Ya know, I think I know what you're talking about now. I thought you were just referring to the lift extending the e-brake cable.
The brake cables come across from the top of the differential to the levers that actuate the e-brakes. In retrospect, my 4" blocks lifted the springs high enough for the cables to pass under the springs and the lift springs I have now are like the stock springs and under the cables.
You're not going to get it working unless you can extend the e-brake levers high enough to attach the cables without interference from the springs or change the brake backing plate and mechanism to one that has the cable acting directly on the shoes.
Longer shackles or different springs are the only other choices.
The brake cables come across from the top of the differential to the levers that actuate the e-brakes. In retrospect, my 4" blocks lifted the springs high enough for the cables to pass under the springs and the lift springs I have now are like the stock springs and under the cables.
You're not going to get it working unless you can extend the e-brake levers high enough to attach the cables without interference from the springs or change the brake backing plate and mechanism to one that has the cable acting directly on the shoes.
Longer shackles or different springs are the only other choices.
#10
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Thread Starter
abecedarian, yup I was looking at it today, and realized that 4'' probably put the line under the spring.
I ended up going with just a 1'' block. Didnt entirely remove the rear sag, but helped alot
I'm eventually going to a new spring setup when I get a little more money, so if its not perfect for $25, I'll live
I ended up going with just a 1'' block. Didnt entirely remove the rear sag, but helped alot
I'm eventually going to a new spring setup when I get a little more money, so if its not perfect for $25, I'll live
#11
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eventhough you have fixed it .. I thought I would post up anyway ..
on my old rig , I had the same problem .. what I did was just cut off about an inch of the emergency brake leaver , re drilled the pin hole .. and re-attached the cable undernieth the spring ..
worked great for about 10 years ..
on my old rig , I had the same problem .. what I did was just cut off about an inch of the emergency brake leaver , re drilled the pin hole .. and re-attached the cable undernieth the spring ..
worked great for about 10 years ..
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