LCE Adj Cam Gear
#21
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Natchitoches, La
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I would run it with the spacer and see how it goes. If your not satisfied with it then I would goto an adjustable and an electric fule pump, And that is what i am about to do to mine. I ran a 20r head on a 84 22r block carburated
#23
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Thread Starter
I'd like to keep it as low as i can since i don't plan on lifting and using anything bigger than 31's or 32's.
I decided to just get another brand new crank and brand new rods. not remanned ones. this way i don't have to worry about loosing any more deck height by not using STD bearings. i still might be maybe 1-2 degrees retarded on the cam though which i should be able to deal with since its a manual tranny anyway. might help me get up that mountain i have to drive to work every day at 50 miles per hour.
If i can afford it later on I might make a dyno run at a place near me. but we will see.
I decided to just get another brand new crank and brand new rods. not remanned ones. this way i don't have to worry about loosing any more deck height by not using STD bearings. i still might be maybe 1-2 degrees retarded on the cam though which i should be able to deal with since its a manual tranny anyway. might help me get up that mountain i have to drive to work every day at 50 miles per hour.
If i can afford it later on I might make a dyno run at a place near me. but we will see.
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 11-05-2009 at 04:15 AM.
#24
Registered User
Gnarls, do you have any estimates how far torque shifts per degree of cam timing change in 22R's? If it depends on the particular cam, figure an Engnbldr 268 cam dead on vs. 2 degrees retarded.
#28
Registered User
Thanks Gnarls.
My graphing abilities aren't very good, but here are the torque curves.
Not really a whole lot of difference, but I'd rather be at +2 or 0 instead of -2.
My graphing abilities aren't very good, but here are the torque curves.
Not really a whole lot of difference, but I'd rather be at +2 or 0 instead of -2.
#32
Wow.I thought I was being uptight about quench when I put my motor together.Just say no to shims.I replaced my head,blocked was decked .007,and rods and crank were replaced with new topline pieces.By EB's calculations,it would have really been a mess trying to zero deck a motor with a 10/10 crank,resized rods and a decked block.It was do-able,but it could have gotten fruckin ugly $$$.New rods were cheaper than resizing the old ones,and a new crank was maybe 20 bucks more than having mine ground.It zero decked perfectly.Lastly,everyone that I have known that has spent time with the adjustable cam gear has offered to sell it to me cheap.I just dont think the gains are worth the expenditure{and i dont trust the bolts}.Just my .02,good luck with yours.And then I read the part about you getting a new crank and rods.Gosh I feel so dumb....
Last edited by tim a.; 11-14-2009 at 01:11 PM.
#33
Registered User
I've got a LCE adjustable cam gear, it's been on my truck for about 30,000 miles with no problems.
I recently had to replace my cam (wiped exhaust lobes) and everything was fine.
Also my head is milled .054" and there was more than enough room for adjustment.
I recently had to replace my cam (wiped exhaust lobes) and everything was fine.
Also my head is milled .054" and there was more than enough room for adjustment.
#34
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Thread Starter
I wound up getting a new crank and new rods as well, no point in having the cut and ground down. so I should be just about close to 0 deck. No cam gear yet, might not need it. If I get those files from gnarls, i will be able to figure out exactly where my gians if any will be. i think i might the slight retard on the cam.
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