Ed in Maine

Front lift height, I was going to go with the 3" springs and 1" shackles in the TG IFS kit. Looking to run 33x12.5's. Sound reasonable?

I had an '83 axle, given to me so that helps with the budget.

Major question is what to do with the rear?? I believe what I have is called a 4link rear? Flex's ok for now, nice and soft but no clearance for meats, but should do better with some OME springs. Or do I go with leaf conversion in the rear and blow my entire budget on suspension? Would like to save for new tires but the BFG ATs are ok for now.

This is just a fun project and the kids want to build a "monster truck" (which is any truck they need help getting in). I was a jeep guy and never had luck flexing so for some I want something that is soft and real flexy, hence the SAS. Goal is just Maine dirt road cruising and river bed type rock crawling (no jagged extreme stuff around here).

Yes, I will start a SAS thread when I get a few boxes on my doorstep!

Also, I need to be able to keep up with my brother-in-law's '75 FJ, EFI 350 V8:

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

33" tires will be too small and will look silly

SAS alone will run you $1k+ in parts done right

Rear leaf spring conversion if you want flex $500+ or do chebbies but onroad stability sux

Then you got d-shaft mods and tires and you are over budget, not mentioning sliders or other extras like lockers, bumpers, armor etc

Forget keeping up with that FJ on your budget doing a SAS

Put a mild lift on what you got, fit some 33s, get sliders and a rear locker, and have at it.

My boys call all mine "monster trucks" too.

Ed in Maine

Wabfab, thanks for the input. I may consider 35's but my inspection sticker would be iffy, though it is possible. I like the idea of spending the funds on a rear locker. Bumpers will be built but not included in the budget, I have quite a bit of scraps around.
For mild lift, are you referring to BJ spacers and some new coils out back?
His FJ is mostly power and not much flex, does great in the mud, but no lockers. I can borrow his 36's anytime though!
Note, my IFS if about to fall off, metal is thin and very rusty.
d-shaft mod's are the unkown price right now. Was figuring on $300, I have several shafts to piece a nice one together but will need to hire that out.

tc

x2 for Wabbit's breakdown - and that's assuming you can weld well enough to trust you and your kids life on. If not, add that much again for install. Also, that's BARE BONES and doesn't really buy you much offroad capability over your IFS...


On your budget, I would say

33x10.50 on the stock rims, gears/lockers, sliders, and skidplates.

If that 40 isn't locked, you'll have NO problem keeping up.

Ed in Maine

Thanks TC, welding is not an issue. I've swapped axles and stuff in Jeeps, v8 conversions, etc. $500 locker and $800 tires, armor won't cost much due fabing myself, what with the other $700?

tc

I would do gears - 4.88 if you have a manual tranny, 5.71 if it's an auto (and you drive on the highway, could go 4.88 if you only drive around town/trail). Also if you have an auto, factor in an aux tranny cooler.

BTW, here's a pic of my 2nd gen on 33x10.50 BFG AT's with no lift


More at the link below and www.cottora.shutterfly.com

Ed in Maine

It is a 5spd, engine runs strong for a 3L. I had a 96 4runner with the 3.4L but it was an auto. I was put the two at similar performance given the two different trany's in each.

I like your thought though TC, maybe ARB's front and rear and ride! When something breaks, then maybe think about mod's. I just hate to put money into an ARB for the IFS....

tc

They are very popular in the used market, you can usually get your money back.

1989toy4wd

I agree with TC...ARBs are wanted in the used market, but what I would do it rear locker first, then see how you like it, cause you can always use the rear locker even if you SAS. Arb will run you around $800, maybe more depending on where you get it.

I would do as follows:
Sliders $150
Rear auto-locker like detroit $600 ($1000 for rear locker and regear front and rear)
Bumpers (you said you can build yourself)
Bj spacers ($300 including alignment, but keep it stock height by cranking down the torsion bars for more flex)
33-10.50s mud terrains
have fun

Then you can save up some for the SAS you will inevitably do when the IFS rusts off!!

pbiker11

so why not just spend what youv got on the SAS and find some used rear springs or do some chevy 63s or ford springs. if your only runnin 33s you wont have to regear unless you want to. if you dont wheel superhard you dont have to have sliders right now and if you can build bumpers you can probably build sliders. im on a budget of way less than 2k and im swappin mine. i say go for it.

Ed in Maine

pbiker, thanks. I am still on the fence for sequence of events. The locker for the rear to start is a no brainer. I have a few ideas for slider designs. I need to cut off the stock running boards soon anyhow, before they get ripped off.
I am pulling the 83 axle from the field donor vehicle this weekend and will check the condition. We have 2 early 80's fire burners for parts, and about four FJ40's. All my brother-in-laws but he needs my help building a tube bed for another yota project..... so I get my pickins!
I don't know jack about these toy's but I am learning. All I know is my 4Runner is plush (sunroof, leather, CD, etc....) and starts every time

theAuthority

Do 63" rear and pop out 2 leafs. I drive mine on the highway ALL the time and it rides like a cadillac. Wife loves it compared to my old jeep which bounced all over.

If I take corners (in town) too fast I can feel the rear flexing, reminds me of the opening corner of the Baja 1000 when the unlimited trucks flex like 5 feet around a corner, haha.

Ed in Maine

What is the donor vehicle for the 63" springs?
Ed

theAuthority

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20665

This should help you out tremendously.

tc

63" chevy swap in a 4Runner is a PITA ... we did it to Molly's ... there are MUCH better options that will flex better for less money and way less time/effort - namely FJ80 coils.

Ed in Maine

With regards to gears, I just noticed that my door is G284, which corresponds to 4.30 I believe. Explains why this little guys seems to move fairly well as is.

bain

Same here...my 63's lean pretty good in curves but rides like a caddy

And i run 35's with 4.10s and its not too bad on the road....but 5.29's are coming when i do the SAS

tc

Factory thought 4.56 was the right gearing for 31's

bain

I just checked out your pics..what size lift is on that red 4 door Tacoma?

tc

Huge - it's SAS on 37's. Even the owner says it's too tall.