just picked up a 94 truck with a knock
#1
just picked up a 94 truck with a knock
i have been looking for a beater truck since i sold my 10 powerstroke and got my new mustang. i finally found a nice little 94 toyota pick up with the 22RE, manual trans and 4wd for $900. the down side is it has a knock and will require a rebuild before i can drive it. i am looking to get a little more power out of it and have been reading up on the normal mods for these trucks.
here is what i am thinking about doing while i have the engine out
full rebuild
new cam (DOA is what i have been seeing mostly)
pace setter header, no cat and new muffler to keep it quiet
new clutch (stock replacement?? or aftermarket)
the truck has stock rims and 33's on it now, they will be removed and i will get some M/T rims and some 31X10.50's for it.
i am not building a rock crawler or mud bogger. i just need a reliable truck and something that i can haul the Polaris or Harley with when i need to.
i appreciate any suggestions on parts to buy or other upgrades that i should do while the engine is out.
THANKS!!!!
here is what i am thinking about doing while i have the engine out
full rebuild
new cam (DOA is what i have been seeing mostly)
pace setter header, no cat and new muffler to keep it quiet
new clutch (stock replacement?? or aftermarket)
the truck has stock rims and 33's on it now, they will be removed and i will get some M/T rims and some 31X10.50's for it.
i am not building a rock crawler or mud bogger. i just need a reliable truck and something that i can haul the Polaris or Harley with when i need to.
i appreciate any suggestions on parts to buy or other upgrades that i should do while the engine is out.
THANKS!!!!
Last edited by QuickSilver74; 05-01-2011 at 12:25 PM.
#2
Registered User
why would u want to go to 31s? depending on the gears u have in the truck if u go to 31s u might end up running higher rpms on the freeway, i have 4.56 gears and at 60 im almost 3k. look into center force due to the fact that u want to go to smaller tires the center force would be good since u are not trying for a rock crawler or mud bogger. even if u keep 33s the center force will be good.
#3
Registered User
I don't think DOA has a good rep. ENGNBDLR or LCE cams seem to be the more respected. ENGNBLDR being the more popular.
Pacesetter also has mixed reviews as well.
Thorley or NWOR 4-2-1 "tri-y" are your better bets on the header.
Clutch is up in the air. OEM or Marlin Crawler seem to me the best as far as reviews. I have a HD clutch set from Advanced Auto (made by ZOOM I believe) in mine 10,000 miles and counting and no problems with it. That's with 31's almost the entire time.
Pacesetter also has mixed reviews as well.
Thorley or NWOR 4-2-1 "tri-y" are your better bets on the header.
Clutch is up in the air. OEM or Marlin Crawler seem to me the best as far as reviews. I have a HD clutch set from Advanced Auto (made by ZOOM I believe) in mine 10,000 miles and counting and no problems with it. That's with 31's almost the entire time.
#6
what xtreme said x2
EB was a pleasure to deal with but I have also bought from LCE and have no complaints about them at all. Bought cam and a SteetRV head from EB. Along with other rebuild parts (oil pump, timing chain and cover, head bolts, gasket kit)
Thorley tri-y is a nice product and bolted right up. Felt a definite power increase with it.
Heard bad things about ceramic clutches, mostly they are too grabby. I went with either the 1200lb or 1600lb kit from marlin along with a flywheel with .026(?) stepping on it. Marlin use to offer this on website, have to call now if you needed this.
This set up has worked very well in two different trucks and I dont baby the motor at all, 4k shifts and a lot of feathering the clutch when rock crawling. If you can swing it, rework the head or get a "built" one from EB or LCE, best money I spent on it.
EB was a pleasure to deal with but I have also bought from LCE and have no complaints about them at all. Bought cam and a SteetRV head from EB. Along with other rebuild parts (oil pump, timing chain and cover, head bolts, gasket kit)
Thorley tri-y is a nice product and bolted right up. Felt a definite power increase with it.
Heard bad things about ceramic clutches, mostly they are too grabby. I went with either the 1200lb or 1600lb kit from marlin along with a flywheel with .026(?) stepping on it. Marlin use to offer this on website, have to call now if you needed this.
This set up has worked very well in two different trucks and I dont baby the motor at all, 4k shifts and a lot of feathering the clutch when rock crawling. If you can swing it, rework the head or get a "built" one from EB or LCE, best money I spent on it.
#7
I have alot done to my truck and the most noticable preformance mods i have done would have to b the putneys preformance head, the lce header, and supra afm. And im with junkie i dont cut my truck any slack at all everything is holding up great no probs with anything
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#8
i emailed engnbdlr and asked him for his recommendation on a kit and he emailed back within an hour with the kit i needed for under $300!!!
i cant believe it is that cheap to rebuild these engines. i guess i have been playing in the world of boosted cars too long! the rods in my old car cost 4times as much as a complete rebuild kit LOL.
does anyone know the price on the NWOR header? i cant find it anywhere on their site.
thanks for the info!!!
i cant believe it is that cheap to rebuild these engines. i guess i have been playing in the world of boosted cars too long! the rods in my old car cost 4times as much as a complete rebuild kit LOL.
does anyone know the price on the NWOR header? i cant find it anywhere on their site.
thanks for the info!!!
#9
i emailed engnbdlr and asked him for his recommendation on a kit and he emailed back within an hour with the kit i needed for under $300!!!
i cant believe it is that cheap to rebuild these engines. i guess i have been playing in the world of boosted cars too long! the rods in my old car cost 4times as much as a complete rebuild kit LOL.
does anyone know the price on the NWOR header? i cant find it anywhere on their site.
thanks for the info!!!
i cant believe it is that cheap to rebuild these engines. i guess i have been playing in the world of boosted cars too long! the rods in my old car cost 4times as much as a complete rebuild kit LOL.
does anyone know the price on the NWOR header? i cant find it anywhere on their site.
thanks for the info!!!
From a post here on YT from May of last year someone was quoted $540 for headers from NWOR. I paid about $350 a couple years ago for the thorley headers from summit.
Edit: After looking up price for the Thorley headers it looks like they no longer make the chrome ones (part#THY-555Y) only the ceramic coated ones (THY-555Y-C) for $410.
Last edited by ToyodaJunkie; 05-02-2011 at 07:31 PM.
#10
i emailed engnbdlr and asked him for his recommendation on a kit and he emailed back within an hour with the kit i needed for under $300!!!
i cant believe it is that cheap to rebuild these engines. i guess i have been playing in the world of boosted cars too long! the rods in my old car cost 4times as much as a complete rebuild kit LOL.
does anyone know the price on the NWOR header? i cant find it anywhere on their site.
thanks for the info!!!
i cant believe it is that cheap to rebuild these engines. i guess i have been playing in the world of boosted cars too long! the rods in my old car cost 4times as much as a complete rebuild kit LOL.
does anyone know the price on the NWOR header? i cant find it anywhere on their site.
thanks for the info!!!
I wouldn't bother putting an aftermarket header on a 22re, keep the stock manifold.
Clutch - OEM's are the best. Marlins are even better since they use OEM components.
EB's rebuild kits seem to be decent, just make sure you use an OEM headgasket instead of the one that comes with the kit
#11
Sorry but i totally disagree with kaptain on the stock manifold when i put the header on my truck i could tell a differance. I do however agree with the oem hg mine only cost 55 dollars.
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