jpmountainboy

whats up folks, got a hair puller Ive been workin on here.

94 3.0 pickup, just put in and older long block reman, i know its older because the t-belt tensioner is spring now.

Ive been trying to fix the timing to take the engine out and give her a break in.

First, my tps was bad...i had all my components off the engine soaked at the machine shop...sensors vacuum components and all...I wish that I wouldnt have, but machine shop louey said it was all good dont worry. needless to say the tps was shot, got a used one, tested er, adjusted...warmed up engine, set timing at 5 btdc to be safe (yes jumpered)...idle was highish 1100, so I backed off (clockwise) idle screw 1.5 turns but thought that was a lot of turn with only a tad of an effect-1000 or so. when un jumpered it came down a little more as hoped, so though every thing was as it should be...it sounded ready to go!

anyways, set timing, seemed fine...took er out for a mile or two...heat ok, but was idling at like 1800 maybe more, took her home, jumpered...and the timing was advanced like almost 3 inches off the beginning of the markers!!!

this sucks as Im trying not to treat my new engine bad and I hate rewarming her up all the time, only to not go break it in.


my only 2 guesses from here are that:

one of my vacuum control units( i have no idea what they are called, but for like the egr and reed valve..etc where the hoses plug in) might have been damaged in the soak...corosion oosed out of them when they dried.

or the t-belt skipped. she was tight though.. but I did just notice that I put my spring bracket in a different place than someone else on here, it made sense to me though, and seemed to keep her tight.

the timing belt seemed pretty on to me.

any freaking ideas???? this is the second time that I have set timing, took it for a short one and then it was way way advanced and idle high.

oh ya, I put in another used maf while i did the tps.
and the high tension wires i guess could be replaced...the old engine overheated and took a poop. but the wires were brand new and ive been buying other replacement garbage...i dont know if that would effect the advance though.


inherways, any input or scorn is greatly appreciated.

ps,
any mods for a little window on the t-belt cover to see the marks on the pulleys out there???

abecedarian

make sure the engine is warmed up when setting the timing.
also may want to give it a good looking over, checking for any vacuum leaks and double check that tps adjustment- if it's not signalling idle to the ecu the timing won't set right.

jpmountainboy

Ive checked everything and the motor was warm. Im going to check the tps again but I took me sweet time dialing her in and she was set.

is there another reason the ecu would want to be doing this?
the distributor is also new. I heard someone on here with a 22 said he forgot some washer on the dist, and that was his problem.
could faulty wires trigger the advance somehow???

PS=== DO NOT BUY ENGINES FROM A NEW COMPANY CALLED MOTORTIME...im going to make a post about it later, until then I hope you do not.

abecedarian

on the 22re, since it's basically a fuel injected 22r, there is a shim that goes between the distributor gear and the cam sprocket which took the place of the eccentric for the mechanical fuel pump. It bears no relevance to the 3.0.

Other than the TPS not signalling IDL (make sure the IDL and E2 terminals are continuous-per spec- with the throttle closed), the ECU and distributor control timing based on coolant temp, rpm, etc... well along with the ignitor and coil.

jpmountainboy

hmmm...is it possible that the ecu is acting strange from the bigtime overheat that fried the head gasketson the old eng?

It overheated bigtime alone out in the woods middle of night freezing with 3 dogs, people were going to start looking for me in the wrong place...so I just kept pushing her tell she was hot, let her cool, and repeat. I figured the head gasket was fried already so eff it, and limped her close enough to home to hitch.

so she got HOT. melted knock sensor wire and destroyed sensor.

ive obviously cleared the mem on the ecu by disconnecting the bat, but does it still keep some programming somehow???

904_runner

Hum, thats hard to say. I wouldn't be able to say. it might be possible to have screwd up the ecu. But for now. Make sure your assembly was put together correctly and warm it up, set the timeing, etc.

Stickyed at the top of the thread there is a link to the FSM manuals follow that if your not sure.

jpmountainboy

thanks.

noticed your from chico. Ive been mashing the back roads here for a while and have to say we have some awesome territory. I just found what appears to be a hidden trail down to deer creek in between cohasset and 32 bridges...actually where the motor blew up. limped it out to hwy 32 and hitched it until like 3 am at the butte meadows turn off with no success...sucky.

cant wait to get this ol truck back up and blast through some snow from garland road to magalia.

abecedarian

Knowing now that the engine has experienced an overheat makes a bit of difference now.
I doubt the ECU was fried by overheating- unless the ECU experienced 150F+. It's more likely that the coolant temp sensor would be affected more so than the ECU. And in hindsight, this could behave similarly.

okie81

There's a couple of roads that go down to deer creek where you're talking about....great fishing down there!

jpmountainboy

thanks corey,

the temp sensor seems to signal the dash gauge normally, as it progressively heats up then hovers in the middle, at least the last couple times I fired her up.

are these things usually work/dont work, or can they have dead spots..the high temp in my case?

thanks for the reply on the 22re washer, that was in the back of my mind, as i didnt remember any washer.

PDX_1ton

FYI this is a pict for the 86 22re and not a 92. I know because that is my engine and I looked at the differences on vaccum hoses for the following years.

Marc

I might be wrong but I think the sensor for the temp guage and the temp sensor for the ECU or 2 different animals.

abecedarian

the temp sender for the gauge is on top of the manifold, between #2 and #3 manifold runners and has one wire coming from it
the temp sensor for the ECU is on the front of the manifold, below the thermostat 'elbow' (where the hose goes to the radiator) and is green and has two wires

(notice the usage of 'sender' and 'sensor'- senders go to gauges, sensors go to computers)

abecedarian

I'll go one step further (circled in red):

jpmountainboy

Im running the 3.0, I believe it is under the alt. thanks for the sweet pic though..its looks much more fun to work on than the 3vze.

I feel like my subconscious toyota mechanic says...you idiot, you know you dipped all those vacuum controls in in that orange acid at the machine shop. (egr, reed, etc eveything) you wish it was just a temp sensor.
Which ones could cause the advance? and how to test them?

the egr shouldnt i dont think...but
I guess i didnt check that idle dealie that I put the feeler guage in between when setting the tps., I should have checked that.

does anyone have any old vacuum controls for the 3vze they want to sell?
pretty much all of mine oozed corrosion that hardened when i got them back from the shop. that cant be good. but which one would cause the advance?

abecedarian

/me smacks self... someone said (not mentioning names... hehehe) 3.0 very early on and I had me a bout of cerebral flatulence (a.k.a. brain fart)... where's thook or DeathCougar when ye need em?... lol ... one thing you never do is dip electrical components in an acid bath... even if it doesn't hurt the component itself, you get the crusties on everything: not good for electricity... and then you hurt the component.

however I will say that in spite of some small differences, the 22re and 3vze FI system is mostly the same.

PDX_1ton

Silly Abe... Didn't you see my message. It is ok. I apparently don't know how to read a manual. (Stupid requirement to pull ALL plugs when doing a compression test. Thanks again)

jpmountainboy

Ahh thank you. i just found that the e.c.t. is on on the water bypass. I will bust out the ohm meter and check er...wish I would have done it when I had the intake off.

thanks.

jpmountainboy

one quickie though, why would I not throw a code telling me temp gauge?

jpmountainboy

and I will be testing the one under the thermostat not on the bypass. the one on the bypass (one wire)is for the gauge, and under the thermostat with 2 wires is for the ECU.

thank you for clearing that up.

man, doing this whole engine replace has taught me a hell of a lot more about my rig, im stoked. I remember when I started, all those hoses and wires looked like a big mess of "I dont wtf that thing does". after reassembling and then having to go back in and replace the knock sensor i just put it all back by heart. yes.