Installed some goodies today
#22
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Location: forked river nj
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looks good i want to install 33"x10.5 super swampers on my 87 downey said i could use there t bars and 3" leafs in the back .would it be better ALONG WITH THE BJ SPACER ?how hard are the tbars to change any special tools i'll need.thanks Ted
#23
i wouldn waste my $$ on the swampers unless you actually need them. An judging by your pic, im guessin your gonna be on-road 98% of the time. Yea they dig like hell but you might as well get you a good M/t tire. I got maybe 8,000 mi out of a set of TSLs on my 86 huntin truck. Just a suggestion from someone thats had them.
An no special tools are needed when your installing your T-Bars. The bars themselves wont give you any lift, its how far you crank them down.
An no special tools are needed when your installing your T-Bars. The bars themselves wont give you any lift, its how far you crank them down.
#25
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i wouldn waste my $$ on the swampers unless you actually need them. An judging by your pic, im guessin your gonna be on-road 98% of the time. Yea they dig like hell but you might as well get you a good M/t tire. I got maybe 8,000 mi out of a set of TSLs on my 86 huntin truck. Just a suggestion from someone thats had them.
An no special tools are needed when your installing your T-Bars. The bars themselves wont give you any lift, its how far you crank them down.
An no special tools are needed when your installing your T-Bars. The bars themselves wont give you any lift, its how far you crank them down.
Gee I got almost 30K on my TSL's right now. About 2/3 worn. I also keep a close eye on pressure's, I run 40 psi. On 8" rims. I also rotate them every 3000 miles at oil change. Right front to left rear, left front to right rear and the two rears straight forward left rear to left front and right rear to right front. I have also had the 4runner over 4 years and have NEVER had an alignment done. And I have been wheeling it the last 4 years. It's not a mall queen.
So I would say there was something wrong with your truck to wear a set out in 8000 miles.
Just my 2 cents
Last edited by gonzo; 07-01-2007 at 07:53 PM.
#27
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Woods86, actually, the torsion bars do give you lift. I have them on my truck; it's like they're cranked up all the way up all the time. The lowering (or cranking down) of the adjusting bolt actually just gives it the shocks more compression, while cranking it up gives it less compression. It's not a good idea to use these bars if you don't have manual hubs, as you will tear up your cv boots.
#28
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I tried that but all it did was shake the rear tire.
The ride didn't change much, it leans a little more but not much.
The tires are 32"x11.50/15's. I got the tires&rims and T-bars off Craigs List. Paid $400 for the tires & rims and $80 for the T-bars.
At first when they where cranked up it was bouncy, but after lowering the truck by about a 1/2" they ride good and the truck doesn't bottom out any more, but still a little bouncy.
Where I work we have some 1" AL. stock, I used some small scraps left over to make them. I used a vert. mill to machine them. To get the shape right I used an old BJ as a timplate.
Where I work we have some 1" AL. stock, I used some small scraps left over to make them. I used a vert. mill to machine them. To get the shape right I used an old BJ as a timplate.
#31
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my truck is not lifted yet ,just not sure which route to go to get room for the 33's after you installed the bjs did you have any problems with your rims or tires rubbing or are they a different offset then stock?
#32
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You didn't happen to record any dimensions on the BJ spacer did you? Is there anything you would do differently if you made another set? I've been eyeing some scrap AL out in our shop at work for this same purpose.
What is that little cutout for on the lower outside edge?
Thanks.
What is that little cutout for on the lower outside edge?
Thanks.
#33
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To MUCH.lol I'm not in the manufacturing biz. Sorry!
No problems with rubbing, rim are different than stock. I also have a 1" body lift.
Sorry no dimensions to report. I use a old BJ as a template to make them. The cut out is there to let water and mud drain out. Here is a site that has dim. www.tkoffroad.com look under "tech Articles".
You didn't happen to record any dimensions on the BJ spacer did you? Is there anything you would do differently if you made another set? I've been eyeing some scrap AL out in our shop at work for this same purpose.
What is that little cutout for on the lower outside edge?
Thanks.
What is that little cutout for on the lower outside edge?
Thanks.
#35
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I'd lower the t-bars.
I have 26mm torsions now and a shackle lift in the back. The ride is hard upfront and the butt is a lil higher (maybe 1/2-1" rise)... I'm going to be getting shorter shackles and swapping out these 26mm for stock in August.
I don't run a sway bar either. With the thicker Torsion bars you don't get as much roll in the cornering as with stock t-bars. FYI The more you crank those oversized t-bars the less flex you'll get the more likely you will be to blow out a CV axle (as I did two weeks ago).
I have 1.5" BJ spacers. The max angle on your drive axles will be reached with a 1.5" balljoint lift. FYI...
I have 26mm torsions now and a shackle lift in the back. The ride is hard upfront and the butt is a lil higher (maybe 1/2-1" rise)... I'm going to be getting shorter shackles and swapping out these 26mm for stock in August.
I don't run a sway bar either. With the thicker Torsion bars you don't get as much roll in the cornering as with stock t-bars. FYI The more you crank those oversized t-bars the less flex you'll get the more likely you will be to blow out a CV axle (as I did two weeks ago).
I have 1.5" BJ spacers. The max angle on your drive axles will be reached with a 1.5" balljoint lift. FYI...
#38
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