tonetti

1987 4runner 22re 4x4 5speed

I bought a new head, so I'm installing it, and I figured I would do the timing cover oil pump, water pump, and timing chain while I'm in there. I also have a massive oil leak coming from the front seal, which upon disassembly I discovered the shaft that is on the pulley is grooved, and will need to be sleeved. The bottom end has been rebuilt 20k miles or so ago. I just purchased the 4 piece front end kit from engine builder, for $140 bucks why not. Anyways getting to the point I know that the oil pan is clean, Do I have to drop it to do the timing cover, removing the front diff just to get the pan off seems ridiculous just to do the timing cover and chain. Any input would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance

eastoncatcher3

there are two bolts on the front side of the oil pan that goes into the timing chain cover. It would make it easier if you droped the whole pan. you dont have to take it completely out just enough to clear your timing chain cover. I rested mine on the crossmember.

angrybob

Removing the oil pan will make it easier, but if you are going to have the head off, it is not necessary. One or the other - head or oil pan - should be removed. Just install the TC cover and button up the oil pan before you install the head. You will likely not be able to sandwich the TC cover between the oil pan and the head without damaging the head gasket.

Why are you replacing the timing chain? Is it the original timing chain? Are the chain guides intact?

Not trying to be a douche, but "I know the oil pan is clean" and "I'm replacing the timing chain" are not two things usually used in the same paragraph with a 22RE.

tonetti

I mainly want to replace the plastic guides (which are intact) with the metal ones from engine builder, and I have it torn down this far already, I really just figured why not?

BTW crank bolt tip 5th gear, hubs locked, 4 high, e brake on, wheels blocked, and a 4 foot cheater took mine off easily. I was scared s**tless mine would be a PITA like the one on my old 3vze auto 94 4runner.

tonetti

One more quick question, Should I put some RTV where the oil pan will mate with the TC cover?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I would, just a thin film, after cleaning it up REALLY well and maybe even lightly abrasive action on it first, too. Personally, it's something I pondered a lot when I just did this. Actually, I pulled the pan/dropped the diff.....because I was NOT removing the head. As said, you'll either need to do one or the other, to do it safely. Put a lil on the oil pan to timing cover bolts as they go in, too. Get the cover on the hanger-pins(on the block face) and get a bolt or two in, just snug by hand, and then put the 'oil pan into cover' bolts in(mine are studs, so if yours are, then get the studs in there, after you get the cover in place, then put the nuts on and tighten them just barely snug by hand--they only go to 9# anyway)

Don't forget to 'WASH YOUR HANDS, OFTEN' when doing this job. (Hey, I'm just parroting what the guy selling you the kit says! lol) Don't overdo the FIPG ON THE TIMING COVER GASKET, EITHER, k? That's why I had to take mine off again, anyway....(thanks to a swell Machinist! lol)

Edit: I used the "Toyota FIPG #(I FORGET< LOL)" stuff.... it's made for Oil pans, CAM Cover Half Moons, etc. REALLY good stuff.

peow130

Don't need to pull the oil pan
And cover the lip of the pan in black RTV or toyota fipg.
Don't go light with it.

JJ'89

I didn't loosen either the head or the pan (except the two pan-to-cover screws) when I did my timing set/cover fix. I was able to remove the cover w/o damaging the head gasket or pan gasket. I used the enginebulider Rock cover. Old guides were shot, some of the driver side is still laying in the bottom of the pan. Cover was grooved pretty bad. The new cover was fine except the cover-to-pan screw holes were off just enough that I could not start the screws. You might want to do a test assembly before you smear the sealer on just in case. Apparently there were some covers that were machined a little bit off as I have indicated. Used Permatex gray. Just left the screws off and crossed fingers. No leaks and everything's fine 17,000 miles later. Don't damage the dampener by malletizing it offf...

spokane.yota.man

There are a couple good writeups on the internet for doing a timing chain replacement. I'd find those, they are helpful. they also both use the method of breaker bar resting on frame and hitting the starter to break the crank bolt loose. I did that and it worked like a charm. Make sure you use 1/2 drive impact sockets though for that method. Instead of the sleeve for the pulley groove some people prefer to use the thinner Toyota seal from later 22re motor. Don't forget the hidden bolt that goes into timing cover at the front of head either. Good luck.

HawkStrong16

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...cement-212688/

Good thread there ^^

92 TOY

I 2nd that motion.

xxxtreme22r

yeah yeah, but your biased so you don't count. And you did yours with the head off. lol. I did mine with and without the head off many times already. 2 1/2 rebuilds on my engine and the original timing chain change which was with the head on.

Either way it's a PITA. Each has it's pros and cons. I think more cons are with the head on but that's just me. 1 worry people have when doing this with the head off is the chain coming off the bottom sprocket, which as long as you have the top sprocket zip tied to it and resting on the chain guides it won't come off the bottom.

With the head on it's almost impossible to rtv seal the corners where you are supposed to because the cover is just gonna push the RTV back towards the face of the block and not stay in the corners. Then you have the issue of it also pushing the head gasket back.

If you are 100% positive that you ave the original bolt at the top of the cover that goes through the head, there is a torque spec sheet towards the end of the downloadable FSM. I believe that bolt is an M8 or M10 bolt. (10 or 12mm bolt head). I can't remember off hand as it's been over a year since I was last in there. Then you look on the bolt head and count how many lines are on it and cross reference it with the chart. If I remember correctly the torque spec is 8 ft-lb.

tonetti

So just to confirm, I successfully replaced my timing cover without removing the oil pan, but I did have the cylinder head off. I used a medium amount of black rtv, and made sure to get it really good where the oil pan gasket meets the block. If i may add a quick tip, I would make sure not to tighten anything down until you have threaded both of the two bolts that secure the pan to the timing cover, I didnt, and I had a hell of a time getting those bolts in. Another thing I would also like to contribute is the way I installed the timing gear to the camshaft, instead of rotating the crank back and forth to make the chain longer, per the FSM, I just laid down a rag on the head, and gently pried up on the timing gear with a screwdriver, and this let the tensioner loose, which allowed me to get that gear back on. Just be careful not to pry too hard, and not scar the cylinder head or the upper timing gear.