IFS upgrades
Feb 13, 2008 | 05:31 PM
#22
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,580
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From: Park City, UT
If you're going to SAS later, it really wouldn't be worth the money to get stronger cv's. They'd be custom I'm pretty sure, and custom usually means $
They're saying stronger cv's aren't needed, and I'd agree. I wheeled mine for a couple months with torn boots, almost totally dry joints, and they were clicking while turning either way. I still kept one for a spare, though I don't plan to need it.
Fix the steering weaknesses, and you're pretty much set!
They're saying stronger cv's aren't needed, and I'd agree. I wheeled mine for a couple months with torn boots, almost totally dry joints, and they were clicking while turning either way. I still kept one for a spare, though I don't plan to need it.
Fix the steering weaknesses, and you're pretty much set!
Feb 13, 2008 | 05:51 PM
#23
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,464
Likes: 6
From: Arvada, Colorado
You can get Porsche joints. They are spendy. On a CV, the joints are the weak part, the shafts seldom break. TC managed it, but I have a feeling that was old crap stuck in there from a previous issue.
Feb 13, 2008 | 06:56 PM
#25
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 389
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Unless you rock crawl, your shafts will hold up to 35's pretty well. Don't drive it like an idiot, and they'll be just fine. Avoid cranking full lock right or left and then punching the gas, and avoid spinning the tires really fast and then letting them hit the ground. If you raise a tire, let off the gas, and try a different line.
Carry spares, do the stud mod, and practice changing them once in the driveway. Troy and I together can do one pretty damn quick. Unless troy's skid plate gets cranky. Then I spend a few minutes cussing. But still. Pretty quick.
Carry spares, do the stud mod, and practice changing them once in the driveway. Troy and I together can do one pretty damn quick. Unless troy's skid plate gets cranky. Then I spend a few minutes cussing. But still. Pretty quick.
Sorry but what is a stud mod??????????????
Feb 13, 2008 | 06:59 PM
#26
Feb 13, 2008 | 09:09 PM
#31
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,586
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From: Richland, Washington
Feb 14, 2008 | 09:06 AM
#33
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 8,875
Likes: 3
From: Longmont, CO
Basically, the stud mod is to knock out the pressed in studs and replace them with bolts. Being able to get the bolts out of the way makes it MUCH easier to get the CV out.
I broke a shaft with the front (only) locked, in compound low, on the throttle, on rock. In other words, I was sending approx 36,000 ft-lbs of torque to the one axle. Not exactly unsurprising that it broke...
I broke a shaft with the front (only) locked, in compound low, on the throttle, on rock. In other words, I was sending approx 36,000 ft-lbs of torque to the one axle. Not exactly unsurprising that it broke...
Feb 14, 2008 | 09:20 AM
#34
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,267
Likes: 1
From: Searcy, Arkansas
I tried to show someone that page a month ago & it wasn't up. I'm wondering if they know or care that it's blank.
The other way is to pound out the studs & grind off the locking ridges, then you don't have to buy new hardware.
The other way is to pound out the studs & grind off the locking ridges, then you don't have to buy new hardware.
Last edited by Brenjen; Feb 14, 2008 at 09:21 AM.
Feb 14, 2008 | 09:37 AM
#35
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,659
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From: Between a rock and a hard place, AZ
Is there a standard size bolt to use when doing this? I searched all over YT and TTORA and can't find the bolt size. I'd like to do this, but I'd like to have the hardware ahead of time...
(Now, if one of you guys goes and finds a thread with that info in it, I'm gonna flip...)
(Now, if one of you guys goes and finds a thread with that info in it, I'm gonna flip...)
Feb 14, 2008 | 11:02 AM
#37
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,659
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From: Between a rock and a hard place, AZ
Feb 15, 2008 | 02:32 PM
#38
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 8,875
Likes: 3
From: Longmont, CO
Third gens use the clamshell diff where the CV is splined and goes straight into the diff - there are no bolts.
The bolt size is M12-1.25x30mm - same as used on the brake calipers, crossmembers, diff/body mount, and a few other places - buy plenty to have as spares.
The bolt size is M12-1.25x30mm - same as used on the brake calipers, crossmembers, diff/body mount, and a few other places - buy plenty to have as spares.
