bjlambert

Has anyone had any trouble with this simple little pain in the brass? It's located behind the inside wheel bearing INSIDE the hub. It's a hard one to find, and can cause major headaches. I had to replace mine a while ago, it's pretty hard to get out. It seems to cause no actual problems in the short run, other than an annoying grinding, whining sound that's louder than my stereo, and a vibration in the pedal. I replaced the passenger side, now the driver's has given out. Anyone know what makes this part wear so easily, other than the fact that it's made of brass? And are there any long term effects of continuing to drive after it starts to grind? I drive a 94 xtracab 4x4, IFS. I'm not sure if it's in the 2x4 models.



Any help would be greatly appreciated!

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Search "spindle lubricator"

:wabbit2:

snobdds

Do you have manual hubs or ADD? It seems the ADD equiped truck are the ones to have trouble with this bushing...

bjlambert

Auto locking, I have the shifter behind my 5sp shifter. And yeah, I figure I should stock up on them, apparently they're like 15 dollars each. Why does this happen so much, from strain from the 4wd?

bjlambert

Thanks a lot for sharing, the spindle lubricator is actually a pretty cool rig, I may have to make one myself!

I usually make my own tools, a welder and grinder are my best friends, so this should be fun! haha

RMA

can you post the part number to these bushings ..

thanks

MudHippy

1. You have ADD(Automatic Differential Disconnect), not Automatic Locking hubs.
2. Or you can invest in the spindle bearings that can be used there instead.
3. Because you have ADD, and the CVs are turning constantly. Meaning, if you're driving(2WD or 4WD) the bushings are wearing. Regardless of being lubricated thoroughly or not. There will be some wear occuring at all times when the vehicle is in motion.

The part number for the bushing is 90381-30006.

albarran58215

i had the same problem, the conclusion i came up with was that if i was going to go threw the effort to replace this part i should go with a spindle bearing instead of the brass bushing. they seem to offer less frictional resistance on the cv axle shaft and the install is basically the same. also to eliminate the constant wear on my cv and the newly installed spindle bearings and add a extra level of protection againt unneeded wear, i installed Manuel locking hubs. i found some off an 87 Toyota at a junk yard for $15 each. they just needed a bit of cleaning and work great now i never worry about this issue since my cv only operate when i'm in 4wd and the hubs are locked

in stead of buy more and always lubricating or installing new bushing just eliminate the issue all together.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f128...4runner-76360/

CRamsey

iTrader: (1)

I've been pondering this issue for a while, too. I have an '88 4Runner 5 speed with manual hubs. It used to have ADD auto hubs, but I swapped out for manual hubs long ago. I have the grinding, noise around 25-30 mph, and sometimes up to 45 or so. I replaced the wheel bearings myself a while ago and the noise didn't really go away. Might not have torqued the large retaining nuts correctly (too tight?). I'm wondering if the spindle bushing would make this noise if the hubs are unlocked and the shifter in 2wd.... Seems to me that if the front axle isn't turning inside the spindle, there wouldn't be any grinding at the bushing going on. So, if the front axles aren't turning, there wouldn't be any bushing grinding happening, and the noise I hear must be the wheel bearings. Am I right? Can I get this bushing noise when I'm in 2wd and have the manual nubs unlocked?

MudHippy

Short answer: No.

I mean yes, you're right. But no, it wouldn't be the bushings. You have manual hubs installed, so nothing connected to the front axle is turning in 2WD when they're unlocked. Thus, no spindle noises are going to occur.

As far as the wheel bearings...I dunno? If you say you replaced them and it didn't make any difference, then probably not(assuming they were installed correctly). It sounds like one of those things I'd need to hear myself to get a better idea what it could be. Sorry...I just ain't got nothin' to offer up on this one. Good luck with that though. Maybe somebody else has an idea...because I sure don't. New thread time?

And just another little reminder: ADD(Automatic Differential Disconnect) ≠ Automatic Locking Hubs

You didn't have ADD auto hubs. You had ADD, without locking hubs. ADD uses drive flanges instead of manual or automatic locking hubs.

albarran58215

so if you have manuel hubs and are in two wheel drive the cv axle should not be spinning at all. this would mean the spindle bearing will not be used since it is INSIDE the spindle see blue arrow on the other hand the wheel would be spinning OUTSIDE the spindle (see red arrow), and the wheel rotates on the spindle through use of the wheel bearing. i would check them out, also check your breaks they might also cause the grinding noise. in the off chance it would be the spindle bearing the manuel hub would have to be engaging some how, which means something is wrong with them.

albarran58215

question when you say replaced wheel bearing did you replace both inner and outer. cause if you only replaced on per wheel then the other one maybe bad too

CRamsey

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the detailed responses and confirmation on my train of thought: if the front axle isn't turning, there shouldn't be any bushing noise. I'll look into the wheel bearings and see whats up.
I gotta come clean on my earlier bearing replacement. I did not replace the inner bearing race that is set inside the hub. I didn't have the tool to pull it. It could very well be the source of my problem. Should have done it right the first time...

albarran58215

is there an auto zone need by were you live if so go and get this bushing driver set. You can use it to hammer the race out and back in properly. its all free you just leave a deposit and you get it back when you return the tools

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...questid=472676


or this too

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...questid=475799

sixstringslut

My 88 had something similar, I cleaned it up and glued shaved leather shoe-string in the journals. Packed with grease, new CV joint and been rolling fine for past 10 years. I figured the CV is what was beating on the bushing, so I tried to eliminate the cause.

I was told the bushing was a dealer only part, dealer wanted $400 for whole hub assy, on a $700 truck...I don't think so.

CRamsey

iTrader: (1)

Here they are: http://www.marlincrawler.com/axle/fr...s-axle-bushing

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Might want to verify that the SFA and IFS bushing are one in the same.

:wabbit2:

xxxtreme22r

Nope. They are not. I know you know though Wabbit.


And the end of a harbor freight prybar and hammer works pretty well to take these out. Especially if your not going to reuse them. :

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

1 1/4" OD round bar - CS


Weld build up one end, machine down to 1 3/8" OD


Final product


I labeled it clearly so it doesn't end up hacked up or used for a "project" by mistake.

This one is for the SFA brass bushings. Pops them right out one easy.

:wabbit2:

xxxtreme22r

Show off. So what if we don't know how to weld? JB Weld the end? J/K.