Idler arm rebuild woes
11-29-2007, 10:44 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Idler arm rebuild woes
I am having trouble getting the shaft through the upper bushing (which I installed in the housing) without popping it out. I first tried twisting it by hand (yeah right) then I used a bottle jack and a piece of wood with a hole in it. THe idea behind this is that the shaft goes through the hole and the bushing stays put. This didn't work as it cracked the wood in half. I should mention that I left the idler arm attached to the tie rod.
Any ideas??? I'm at a loss.
Any ideas??? I'm at a loss.
11-30-2007, 05:01 AM
#2
Contributing Member
Hopefully you have it attached to the relay rod (centerlink) and not your tie rod. If its attached to the tie rod, well, I actually have no idea how that could happen.
Regardless, remove it.
If that doesn't work, just sand, lightly, the bushing (inside) and the idler shaft. Don't do it much. Just do a little, then see if it fits.
My guess is taking it off of the centerlink is going to make it happen for you.
Regardless, remove it.
If that doesn't work, just sand, lightly, the bushing (inside) and the idler shaft. Don't do it much. Just do a little, then see if it fits.
My guess is taking it off of the centerlink is going to make it happen for you.
11-30-2007, 05:35 AM
#3
3 Bolts
Page SR-100
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...g/16steer0.pdf
Freeze Off works wonders for stuck truck parts
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...g/16steer0.pdf
Freeze Off works wonders for stuck truck parts
Last edited by BigWavePaul; 03-07-2008 at 08:03 AM.
11-30-2007, 10:43 AM
#5
Ummm...new idler arm bushings DO NOT require a press. They are supposed to be the exact diameter of the shaft, sliding the shaft in or out shouldn't cause any significant friction/resistence, nor should rotating the arm in the bushings. Which are actually just plastic bearings and should allow smooth unrestricted movement of the shaft axially. They should be easily installable with the arm attatched to the center link. The bushings should be very snug inside the housing, but should be loose enough on the shaft for it to rotate easily within them.
What year are the bushings for? They're probably the wrong size. I bet your idler arm is the later version, I think 92 or later. If it's a factory arm it may be a replacement from a dealership. After-market idler arms either have bushings that are unique to each design, or use one of the 2 different sizes in stock arms.
You may need to buy bushings for the later(92-95)idler arm. It has a thicker shaft and WILL NOT work with the older smaller size bushings. The diameter is ~19mm for the newer arms shaft, ~18mm for the older shafts.
So, I wouldn't recommend using the bushings if they're that tight. You'll probably damage them trying to make them fit.
IMO.
What year are the bushings for? They're probably the wrong size. I bet your idler arm is the later version, I think 92 or later. If it's a factory arm it may be a replacement from a dealership. After-market idler arms either have bushings that are unique to each design, or use one of the 2 different sizes in stock arms.
You may need to buy bushings for the later(92-95)idler arm. It has a thicker shaft and WILL NOT work with the older smaller size bushings. The diameter is ~19mm for the newer arms shaft, ~18mm for the older shafts.
So, I wouldn't recommend using the bushings if they're that tight. You'll probably damage them trying to make them fit.
IMO.
Last edited by MudHippy; 11-30-2007 at 10:48 AM.
12-01-2007, 01:00 AM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
It turns MudHippy you were right, thanks. The part I had bought from the generic auto parts store was a 19mm. I called Toyota and they denied the existence of an idler are bushing saying you had to buy the complete assembly instead ($360). Eventually I brought the part down there and they admitted they had two in stock. They went in much smoother. I put everything back together using moly mp grease in the housing and thread lock on the bolts. The steering feels much better now.
Again, Thanks MudHippy
Again, Thanks MudHippy
05-04-2009, 04:35 PM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Central Arizona
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am having a similiar problem getting the right bushings for my 88 4x4 pickup. The dealer parts would not fit into the housing but were slightly loose on the shaft. I tried to press the bushings in to the housing using a vise for pressure but there was no way they were going in. Finally took photos of the new and old bushings side by side to show the parts guys the problem and put the idler arm back together for the meantime. Sloppy but driveable.
Trending Topics
05-06-2009, 04:57 PM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Central Arizona
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks
The parts guys at the local dealership in Prescott did not inspire confidence when I went to pick up the stuff I ordered. In addition to the idler arm bushings I asked for a starter contact kit and was handed one packaged contact with bolt and insulators and three assorted different contacts without any bolts etc. and was told "We don't know which is the right one so take em all and bring back what you don't use." Course I had to pay for it all and still haven't done it because I solved the problem with the battery cable being loose. I'll get back to them one of these days. Thanks again.
05-07-2009, 12:07 PM
#11
Registered User
Damn idler arm, I hated rebuilding that thing all the time. Go wheeling, come home, gas the truck up, change the oil, rebuild the idler arm. Repeat every time. Well, not that bad, but for something that is not supposed to be consumable, I felt like I was changing out ink cartridges from a printer.
Total Chaos baby, never look back. Their Caddy idler arm is a beast. A sight to behold hanging on the frame.
Mike
Total Chaos baby, never look back. Their Caddy idler arm is a beast. A sight to behold hanging on the frame.
Mike
05-09-2009, 09:02 AM
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Temecula Valley, CA
Posts: 12,723
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
I'm kinda having the same question Jay351, and everyone else in the thread too...
What was the difference between before and after? Did it wander, steering 'loose' or 'numb', play in the steering? What made you decide to change the bushing, etc.?
*don't get me wrong, I understand the idler arm and its function, but for our readers who are having problems and figure out how to search the forums, maybe some good information- even though I know it's out there somewhere else too.
*
What was the difference between before and after? Did it wander, steering 'loose' or 'numb', play in the steering? What made you decide to change the bushing, etc.?
*don't get me wrong, I understand the idler arm and its function, but for our readers who are having problems and figure out how to search the forums, maybe some good information- even though I know it's out there somewhere else too.
*
05-09-2009, 09:59 AM
#16
Contributing Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 9,055
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
5 Posts
the steering felt loose, and it felt very lazy on the road..
I also had a nice wheel shimmy at hwy speeds.
After rebuilding mine, the steering feels nice and tight, quite a bit more responsive on the road, and its smooooth as butter
Dont let yours go to far. The po let mine go so bad that the inside has rusted, no matter how many times I rebuild mine, it still has play.. I can't wait to feel what it will be like with an idler arm in better shape...
I also had a nice wheel shimmy at hwy speeds.
After rebuilding mine, the steering feels nice and tight, quite a bit more responsive on the road, and its smooooth as butter
Dont let yours go to far. The po let mine go so bad that the inside has rusted, no matter how many times I rebuild mine, it still has play.. I can't wait to feel what it will be like with an idler arm in better shape...
05-09-2009, 11:56 AM
#19
Contributing Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 9,055
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
5 Posts
I have to replace my whole idler arm. But if you don't let it get so bad, you can just rebuild yours.
Just a note, I rebuilt mine about 6-8times, it gets alot better, but it aint %100... the inside is all rusted and uneven..
Just a note, I rebuilt mine about 6-8times, it gets alot better, but it aint %100... the inside is all rusted and uneven..
05-10-2009, 10:11 AM
#20
i rebuilt my idler arm and put in an OME steering stabilizer around the same time when i did my shocks and leafs and difference was night and day. got my bushings from kragen for $4/ea (had to special order them) with a part number i found on yotatech. my original bushings were not cracked, but did have some visible shine on the surface that contacts the shaft. i think the most help to the steering aside from the idler bushings was the OME steering stabilizer, which really tightened up the steering. I did the stabilizer first and had a chance to drive around with just the original parts vs. stabilizer + old idler bushings vs. stabilizer + new idler bushings.
original parts - steering wheel had a few inches of play when tracking straight on the hwy, though it always stayed straight and never really drifted (pretty good alignment i guess). pretty much drove as you'd expect a 15+yr old truck w/180k.
OME shocks and dakar leafs only - steering was the same, but rear end was much stiffer and slightly raked. new shocks made a HUGE difference in ride quality. could feel the stiffer leafs helping stabilize the rear in cornering.
OME stabilizer - first off, is size difference: Toyota stabilizer = hotdog, OME stabilizer = salami. definitely tightened up the steering quite a bit and removed about 75% of the steering wheel play, but mostly noticed it gave a slight resistance to turning the steering wheel which is a good thing as it's doing its job of dampening the steering you feel @ your hands. most noticeable in street driving with lots of turning as well as off road driving when rocks/ruts jar the steering back and forth.
OME stabilizer + idler rebuild - got rid of the rest of the play in steering wheel. on hwy, if i move the wheel, the truck moves. definitely noticed at least some change. well worth the $8 and 30 min of effort. did not bother putting the dust cap back on the idler arm because it wouldn't fit over the new bushings w/o some serious effort. figured i'll get an idler arm brace down the road and it doesn't use that part anymore, so i won't either.
front swaybar removed - if you have a pickup, take that thing off and forget about it. it 'slightly' helps front end sway, but i think it is mostly for protection on the hwy in the event of cranking the steering at 90mph - and even if you had the swaybar on there, i don't think it would help in that situation as you're prolly gonna roll regardless. on the street, however, the ride is MUCH softer. i don't think it's a good idea to take the bar off of a 4runner due to their coil rear-end and different body/weight distribution, and probably wouldn't help someone with stock worn-out saggy leaf springs because those wouldn't combat body roll like a new leaf would.
hope this helps someone.
original parts - steering wheel had a few inches of play when tracking straight on the hwy, though it always stayed straight and never really drifted (pretty good alignment i guess). pretty much drove as you'd expect a 15+yr old truck w/180k.
OME shocks and dakar leafs only - steering was the same, but rear end was much stiffer and slightly raked. new shocks made a HUGE difference in ride quality. could feel the stiffer leafs helping stabilize the rear in cornering.
OME stabilizer - first off, is size difference: Toyota stabilizer = hotdog, OME stabilizer = salami. definitely tightened up the steering quite a bit and removed about 75% of the steering wheel play, but mostly noticed it gave a slight resistance to turning the steering wheel which is a good thing as it's doing its job of dampening the steering you feel @ your hands. most noticeable in street driving with lots of turning as well as off road driving when rocks/ruts jar the steering back and forth.
OME stabilizer + idler rebuild - got rid of the rest of the play in steering wheel. on hwy, if i move the wheel, the truck moves. definitely noticed at least some change. well worth the $8 and 30 min of effort. did not bother putting the dust cap back on the idler arm because it wouldn't fit over the new bushings w/o some serious effort. figured i'll get an idler arm brace down the road and it doesn't use that part anymore, so i won't either.
front swaybar removed - if you have a pickup, take that thing off and forget about it. it 'slightly' helps front end sway, but i think it is mostly for protection on the hwy in the event of cranking the steering at 90mph - and even if you had the swaybar on there, i don't think it would help in that situation as you're prolly gonna roll regardless. on the street, however, the ride is MUCH softer. i don't think it's a good idea to take the bar off of a 4runner due to their coil rear-end and different body/weight distribution, and probably wouldn't help someone with stock worn-out saggy leaf springs because those wouldn't combat body roll like a new leaf would.
hope this helps someone.
