idle problem please help!!
 

just replaced my tps and my coil pack got my tps adjusted correctly according to the haynes manual and it idles 800 when i start her up but after i go for a drive it shoots up to 1700 rpm! i first of course i check for vacuum leaks and to make sure when it is hot that the throttle plate is all the way down and it is still at 1700 rpm any one have any idea what it is or were to start trouble shooting?!:pop:

so, it's warmed up and idle is 1700?

Have you considered that idle speed is set with the engine warmed up so you have to warm it up THEN set idle and timing?

So, when it's idling at 1700, set the idle and timing to stock.

It may not like to idle when cold though, but that's were your issues are.

i can't get the idle down the idle screw is in all the way!

Run the vehicle until engine has warmed up, then jump TE1 and E1, set your timing to 10 BTDC, adjust your idle. Check your timing again, adjust, and then set the idle again. It sounds to me like the timing is advanced to much, if you are sure that the tps checked out good.
Use this link to verify your TP settings, I do not know what is in Chilton's, I threw that rag away months ago:
http://www.ncttora.com/FSM/1990-1995...e/throttle.pdf

ill deff check again cuz u can never be to sure but ill try that today! :horse:

It took me several tries, and several days until I finally got the mix right. Idle screw out 3.0 turns and the timing set at 12 BTDC. Now it idles at 1100 cold, and drops to 800 after warm up. Now I have power and get 17.5 mpg.

now what does it mean when jump the te1 and e1 and the timing dose not change in the fsm it say to make sure when u jump the 2 it reatrads it 8 degrees and when u take the jumper out it advance 8 degrees and mine dose not range with jumper wire

When your jumping, does your CEL flash? It should. Otherwise the jumper isn't in properly. It could be a little bugger to get to jump.

yes it is i think the ignitor is bad not sure if i set the idle were it is soposta then the timing were it should it runs like garbage but if i retard it it runs really good i don't get it?

Check your throttle position sensor.

Are you using the jumper in the diagnostic port like your supposed to? Are you sure the distributor isn't a tooth off? Are you sure the harmonic balancer isn't broke and the timing notch isn't in the wrong position in relationship to the crank?

OP said:
Faulty TPS will keep that from happening. ;)

So a faulty TPS will cause the CEL light not to come on when jumpered properly?

I think he ment that a faulty TPS will not change the idle when TE1 and E1 is jumped.

Right, that's why I had said make sure the CEL is on (flashing) when jumping. If it's not then it's not jumped. I don't believe a faulty TPS will prevent the light from coming on.

No: the CEL will still light as it's supposed to, flashing codes and the lot, when the jumper is in, even if the TPS is wide open, A/C is on....

A malfunctioning or maladjusted TPS timing won't keep you from reading codes but, when the engine's running and you insert the jumper, it will keep the timing from shifting from dynamic ECU controlled to static Igniter controlled (a.k.a. baseline). With the engine off, and the throttle less than ~0.5mm open, TPS IDL/E2 connection must be less than 2.3Kohm with the jumper in for the timing to drop to baseline. With the engine running, you can loosen the TPS and rotate it "top towards the front" until you hear the idle drop, and that should be enough adjustment so you can set the timing. Now, I'm not going to tell you that "adjustement" is perfect, but it should get you in the ballpark.

OK I stand by my earlier comments to ensure timing is correct.

So basically a malfunctioning TPS will not allow the electronic advance that is supposed to take place then correct? If it's bad and you take the jumper out it will not advance the timing as it's supposed to.

Also if the distributor is off a tooth and that direction is in the advance direction, the electronic advance isn't going to take place either. As it will "run out of adjustment".

That's why you MUST confirm everything timing related is right before diagnosing any issues. I am going to assume the O.P. is using a timing light.

haha yes i am using a timing light i had to go to work so i did not get to pull the distributor that is were i got yesterday.... well i bought a new tps a few weeks ago and it took me a few trys but i got it within all the values in the fsm so that has to be good so i am gonna go and pull the distributor and check it out today

ok so i pulled the distributor and it was a few teeth of so i fixed that a little better so i pulled the cam cover off and the t belt is off by 1 tooth so i think i might have find my problem

belt? fix crank to cam timing first, then set distributor. Make sure cam is on TDC compression, meaning both #1 cyl rockers are loose. (valves closed) I am sure you know that, but just in case.