axekick

I did it on Saturday. It was easy. All I bought was a long Battery cable, some split loom and some of that flexible 3" air hose. This Mod was well worth the half day it took to do it. I don't have duct tape sealing that old POS stock air intake anymore. The power increase is quite noticeable and it sounds way better especially at full throttle. I'll take a picture in a little while. This is a cool Mod that is easy and I highly recomend it.

Junkers88

Post up some pics! I'd like to try this mod myself I just don't know how hard it's going to be.

InternetRoadkill

What did you use for the battery tray and hold-down?

dirtoyboy

What does this acheive exactly?

Seems to me that with a flatbed the rear would have been a more logical place to mount the battery (for weight distribution)

axekick

I have my camera with me at work so I'll take a picture at lunch. I used the original battery tie down. there was a threaded hole in the right place on the front and I just drilled a hole in the fender well for the other side. I'll be sure to show that in the pics.

Only problem is there is no room for the wiper fluid tank but mine didn't work anyway. It would be easy to relocate if you can find a better place for it.

The overfill tank is just crammed between my battery and the front, not bolted but if I had a smaller battery it would fit without modification.

screw it, I'm going to go take some pics right now.

Here's the Air box. I had to drill the rivets that hold the tube that's mounted in the bottom of the box and just leave the hole in the back.


Here's the hole I'm talking about.


Here's the battery. There was a little plastic tray under it so I just put it under it in it's new location.




It might be cool to have the battery in the back, but Autozone didn't even have a cable that long. Maybe I'll do that later. Next thing I need is a radiator though. All four welds have broken. The only things holding it in are the hoses.

axekick

Running the wires to the air box was easy. I just took off the old loom around it to separate the wires to the coil (or whatever that is) from the MAF sensor and ran the MAF wires to the other side and put new loom on it. Here's a picture where they split right around the middle of the firewall.

dirtoyboy

Maybe I am still missing the point of the swap..but whatever...

You can just use some repair solder and a torch and mend your old radiator..I did it last week on mine (all 4 brackets were broken completely) It took about an hour to do and it looks great. Plus my cooling system got a nice flush

axekick

Well the main reason I did the swap is because the stock plastic air intake from the box to the throttle body was all cracked. I had it duct taped to seal it. It was ugly. Some people say it's better this way because your air doesn't have to flow all the way over your radiator so you can get cooler air. I don't know if that made a difference or if the 3" air duct just flows better but it does have more power now. But the main point is that I don't have to get another worn out intake tube off an old junkyard truck just to have it crack like mine did. The reason for the swap was convinience. I can work on the front of my motor now without taking the air tubes off. The power increase was just a welcome side effect.

algranger

haha nice!
sounds like a nice little mod

EWAYota

Shorter route for the air to get to the intake, less bends, less restrictive. Some state that not having the air pass by the radiator is a added plus as well, air stays cooler.

olharleyman

ooops read below

iamsuperbleeder

what the hell is that on top of the battery???



Ever since I heard of this mod, I just don't see why Toyota didn't do this to begin with?

I haven't done it yet to my 91 22re, mainly because of my custom intake I have setup (many of you may have seen pictures), but I'll probably go this route when I do my snorkle and run it up the pass. side instead of the driver's side.

904_runner

It looks like he has a bunch of wires attached to it, but the rubber hoses so they don't contact each other?

olharleyman

When I did my dual battery set up I put my 2nd battery in the same place did the drill the hole thing as well as for the over flow bottle I just loosened the bolt holding it on the core and removed the 2 bolts holding the bottle turned it 90 degree's put the bolts back in the bottle not sure if you can see it so well in the pictures but you can get enough of an idea you can see what to do with yours and none of the lines had to be changed it was really just loosen , remove , spin and replace that easy.

GoFish

A battery isolator. It keeps your 2nd battery from draining. I've read they will draw a bit of power from the alternator but they are inexpensive compared to a solenoid type isolator.

olharleyman

It is a battery seperator the main wire comes off of the alt to it sending the power into the blue box and then inside it redirects the power to the battery that needs the most power to bring it up to full charge , once that battery is fully charged it flips to the other battery and charges it to full as well.

Once both battery's are at full charge it flips back and forth topping off each battery so that neither of them go down beyond useible power and if one of or the other battery is being used more heavily it will direct the power to that battery keeping if at full charge.

Example the second battery runs all of my extras such as my stereo , amp , and 8 130 watt overhead lights at night when I turn on the lights the seperator sends full power to that battery keeping it at full charge allowing for a full 13 volts to everything while the stock side battery is just sipping a little power to stay fully charged.

The stock side battery runs just the bare minimum to keep the truck running and the dash lit except when kicking on the winch this way I can get a full battery charge to the winch when I need it and not worry about it draining it down so hard with everything on at once and I get the full potential of the winch with all 8 lights still staying bright and clear.

The black rubber on the box is just a little extra insurance for the possiblity of the hood hitting the power studs and shorting out the whole system. Call it over kill but a little extra safty measure can go a long way to keeping you running the way it is intended to work and being broke down somewhere.

axekick

I like how you set up your overflow tank. I'm going to do that today.

olharleyman

I do have a patened on that idea so if you have $49.95 I will give you permission to use the idea .

Just kidding ^ it really is as easy as it looks it will make a bit more room and lessen the chance's of cracking the the tank.

axekick

Ha! You can put that on my tab.

aviator

"Ever since I heard of this mod, I just don't see why Toyota didn't do this to begin with?"

It is a weight balancing thing... the battery is very heavy and since most vehicles are only driven with a single occupant most of the time they put the batt. on the opposite side.
Some mfgs. locate the batt. midships at the rear of the engine bay (if they have space) on smaller cars for world wide [lhd/rhd] sale.
The extra Batt. tie down location is built in on these trucks because the diesel version had dual batts. from the factory.