wesb

Happy Holidays all. I am kinda lost here on this one. Been searching the forums and google and all over.

1990 IFS New Warn hubs on both sides. Birfield/outer driveshaft can slide in and out on the drivers side about 2 inches. Passengers side is locked in place. With the hubs locked, the drive shafts are locked (rotate the tires and axles turn) but the propeller shaft spins free. With the hubs unlocked and TCase engaged the propeller shaft is locked to the TCase.

Engaging the hubs and the tcase, drive line begins to bind within a foot of forward motion. That locks up the TCase shift lever until i back it up. Someone mentioned it could be the axles have slid out of place as I might be missing a snap ring. Does this make sense?

Thanks

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like it could be that or your front differential could have some issues something in thefront forsure.

abecedarian

engage the hubs and the t-case and the driveline binds within a foot of forward motion... if you're driving a straight line, that sounds like your front and rear diffs have different ratios.

after that's figured out, we'll figure out the rest.

Teuf

I 2nd the ratio difference.

wesb

Thanks...forgot to add...4:88 front and rear. This happened once before and I took it to have the gearing checked. Tech told me the gearing was not the issue and that they had fixed it and checked it on a sand test area. I got it back, locked and engaged and it seemed to work. Then yesterday, was going to drive out on the beach and same issue as before. Nobody told me what was done the first time.

eric924run

start by fixing the drive shaft that moves in and out. then see what happens. maybe your pinon bearings are super shot causing the pinon to bind.

Keith B.

Why does it have Warn hubs on it? Was this converted from ADD?

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

no birfield in an IFS front end...

wesb

Thanks for the info above. much appreciated...question...
"start by fixing the drive shaft that moves in and out. then see what happens." What keeps the shaft from being able to move in and out? is it the Snap Ring?

"no birfield in an IFS front end..." Thanks for that. Wasn't sure. All I know is the Big fatty piece with a boot on it that slides into the back of the spindle.

"Why does it have Warn hubs on it? Was this converted from ADD?"...Truck was very abused when I bought it and the original hubs literally fell out in pieces when replacing the front disks doing a brake job.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

Are you confident that the hubs were installed correctly?
Warn Toyota hubs are their one product that don't live up to their normal reputation as a good product...

alltracman78

Because of the red below, it sounds like you have a problem with your front diff.
Pull the drain plug, if you have metal chunks coming out your diff is probably toast.
If not you MAY be lucky and just have something loose/bound up.

wesb

just found this step in a Warn hub installation instructions...
"5. Toyota (86-Present)/GEO/Suzuki: If cap screw and spacer were previously removed, reinstall them to the axle shaft and torque to 10-12ft. lb. "

There are/is NO cap screw and spacer on the axle shaft...could that be the problem?

alltracman78

Probably not.
You need to take a look at your diff like I said.

Assuming you have factory IFS, your hubs shouldn't be the problem [doesn't mean they're ok, just that they wouldn't cause this].
Non working hubs would just mean that wheel wouldn't work with the 4WD.

Cyberman

1. Jack up the front end.
2. If the truck has ADD (Auto Differential Disconnect), Get it to engage (ground the green wire going into the transfer case and start the truck to get the differential to actuate). Otherwise, skip this step.

3. With the t-case in 2wd, spin the driveshaft. The CVs should move. Lock the hubs, and the wheels should move too.

4. If that all works, then it sounds more like something in the t-case.

wesb

Cyberman: so if I understand correctly, if I do have ADD I need to activate it but if I dont have it then jacking up the front end, turning either the propeller shaft or the CVs one should turn the other. Now I am wondering if that is the problem that I may have ADD and it isnt working. Will check this in a bit.
So it seems I have an ADD actuator assembly and what I did was start the truck, lock it in 4H, put it in neutral and rolled the truck back and forth (didnt have a jack handy) both propeller shafts turned but the front CVs did not. To me this would indicate that the ADD sleeve did not slide into place?? yes? Should I follow steps to remove the ADD altogether since it is just another point of failure? Thanks,

Cyberman

Yes. If you have ADD, the diff is disengaged when in 2wd. When the t-case is switched to 4WD, the switch on the passenger side of the t-case closes, which in turn closes the ADD relay, which in turn causes a vacuum valve to close and engage the diff (which also in turn, lights up 4WD on the dash).

If you have ADD, you will have 2 vacuum hoses coming out of the front of the diff. So, if you have it, you need to activate the diff without putting the t-case in 4wd, which is what I spelled out. You know you have the correct wire grounded, when the 4WD lights up on the dash.

Again, if you don't have ADD, the diff is always engaged, so you don't have to worry about any of this.

When the diff is engaged, the driveshaft should make the axles spin (on the ground, hubs unlocked, t-case 2wd).

When you get to that point, lock the hubs, put it in neutral and the driveshaft should move with the wheels.

If that all works, then put the t-case in 4wd.

wesb

So it seems I have an ADD actuator assembly and what I did was start the truck, lock it in 4H, put it in neutral and rolled the truck back and forth (didnt have a jack handy) both propeller shafts turned but the front CVs did not. To me this would indicate that the ADD sleeve did not slide into place?? yes? could this be why it seems to be binding since the shafts are never locking or are not locking correctly? Would it be easier if I follow steps and procedure to remove the ADD altogether since it is just another point of failure? Thanks,

Cyberman

Did the 4WD light come on? If it did, then the actuator should be engaged (light is lit from a switch in the front diff). If the diff isn't engaging, locking the hubs wouldn't cause any binding (the CVs would be freewheeling, instead of the hubs).

wesb

The light has always come on, the CVs did not turn with the propeller shaft though.

I can lock the hubs with the transfer case disengaged and all is fine [no binding] (CVs turn as they are locked to the wheel/hub). Propeller shaft does not turn (but it should in my mind) so it doesnt sync up with the rear shaft. This means I have to stop in order to engage the transfer case. I can unlock the hubs with transfer case engaged and all is fine [no binding] (CV's dont turn because they are not engaged with the differential but they should be)

This is why i think i should take the ADD out of the picture to simplify the troubleshooting. This is also frustrating as hell.

blake.nemitz

sounds like everything is working like it should regarding the add, however if you are missing some teeth on the ring and pinion it can make an empty spot so the cvs do not turn. gotta be gears, id the actuator were the problem it would not go into 4 and not bind while driving in 4, same goes for the hubs. pull the cover off the ifs and take a peek