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How low is your oil pressure at idle when hot (pic of my gauge attached)
My oil pump is new, is this normal? It does go about halfway up when I am driving, just don't recall if it ever got this low at idle after reaching operating temp:
I drive with 30w, and my needle doesn't get even that high at hot idle.
The spec for hot idle is 4.3psi http://web.archive.org/web/201311071...56oilpress.pdf and 36-71 at 3000 rpm. Our gauges don't have numbers on them, but at speed my oil pressure needle is a hair below the oil-can, so I'm guessing that's 36psi or so. Which means 1/10th of that would put the needle even lower than yours.
So I think you're fine, but the only way to know for sure is to get a known-good oil pressure gauge and hook it up.
You can buy an aftermarket mechanical oil pressure gauge for $20 at your local part store, you just have to plumb it in to verify your reading, the one I just bought to check all my trucks (chevy and Toyota) shows 0-40-80 psi, but you might find something with more labeled divisions than that.
What metric size adapter fits the oil pressure switch hole on a 22RE?
no idea, pull it off and go to Home Depot or Lowes, check the NPT fittings and see if they fit or not. If you don't find anything try an auto parts store.
Believe it or not, it's an 1/8" BSPT (British Standard Pipe thread, Tapered). The most common oil pressure gauges are 1/8" NPT. Fortunately, the adapters are not hard to find.
Can you "get by" squeezing an 1/8" NPT into the block? Uh, maybe, but only once. The thread pitch is different. You might be able to get it tight enough the first time, but you'll end up distorting the threads in the block and it will leak for ever after.
Believe it or not, it's an 1/8" BSPT (British Standard Pipe thread, Tapered). The most common oil pressure gauges are 1/8" NPT. Fortunately, the adapters are not hard to find. https://www.amazon.com/Squirrelly-Pr.../dp/B00QXK0QSW
Can you "get by" squeezing an 1/8" NPT into the block? Uh, maybe, but only once. The thread pitch is different. You might be able to get it tight enough the first time, but you'll end up distorting the threads in the block and it will leak for ever after.
What the hay!
Probably will have a hard time finding one like that around here. Local hardware store might be able to special order one. I have plumbed mechanical gauges before on GM stuff, but the kits always had every thing you need.
I think this one on Amazon for $9.99 should work like you described. It does not have the tee, so that the factory gauge, and a mechanical gauge can be used at the same time like the one you linked.
If you're talking about a gauge that looks like this:
The spec 4.3 psi will only be one needle-width above zero. So you won't be much better off than with the factory gauge.
And if you think the boys at Lowes look at you funny when you ask for a J.I.S. M10-1.25x15 flange bolt, try asking for a BSPT threaded adapter!
True, buy you can run the engine up to 3000 rpm and verify the reading and see how it compares to the stock one. you may also be able to find one with more markings, this one (like mine) has a dash for 20 psi, then shows 40, another dash for 60, then 80, no it won't be exact.
That's about where mine sits at idle Paul, and goes up to just a hair under halfway when driving. I'll try to remember to snap a picture later today after I leave work and am up to operating temp.
My oil pump is new, is this normal? It does go about halfway up when I am driving, just don't recall if it ever got this low at idle after reaching operating temp:
Factory oil pressure is only about 4 to 5psi at idle. That is normal. They are lower oil pressure because they do not have lifters that need to be pumped up, or very many oil passages to send oil to the top end's moving parts. I believe the only way for higher oil pressure at idle is to go with a 22ret oil pump. They send out a little more because it feeds the turbo. But I think it is a waste of time to upgrade a new pump, with a slightly higher pressure new pump, when the engine does not require it.
I have a 1994 4Runner with same problems as that discussed by many (Oil pressure when engine cold....drops to "O" when engine warm). Where is the "Oil Pressure Sensor" Located and how hard is it to replace?????
Mime is lower than your picture. I'm hoping it's the "Oil Pressure Sensor" but I'm not sure where it is located. Is it near the oil filter? The vehicle has 225,000 miles on it. I just had a new left side cam shaft installed, new timing chain, etc. Any advice appreciated.....
Welcome to YotaTech. I assume you meant that you had a new timing belt installed. (the 22re has a chain).
Here's the manual page for the oil pressure sensor. http://web.archive.org/web/201003261...16oilpress.pdf I've never removed it myself, but I'm pretty sure you'll need a tool designed for that purpose (not hard to find).
Before you do that, consider that a) the spec idle pressure is 4.3psi. If full-scale is 71psi, where do you expect your needle to be? b) if your gauge is actually reading "too-low", why do you think the problem is in the gauging, rather than actual too-low oil pressure (due to worn bearing journals, etc.)? c) if your pressure is okay, why do you think it's the sender and not the meter? You can go broke pretty quickly replacing parts on a guess.
06-26-2019, 12:19 PM
