mlrtime99

Well she popped on me this weekend, it's got 220k mi on the clock and I'm just trying to figure out if I should do the head gasket and finish out the season now that the weather is finally bearable or wait for the 1uz swap.

I've done a couple head gasket jobs, never on a yota, how long did it take you guys and can you think of any special tools needed or any parts that were a pain in the ass.

tried4x2signN

Have you checked your service history to see if Toyota has done it yet?


And I don't think you'll need any special tools, but it will be a major PITA.

This thing is worlds apart from the "Old Chevy" logic...

Try taking off the upper intake and just flipping it over and resting it on a rag, on the fender. That saves you from pulling a ton of vac lines...

You will have to remove the EGR though.

And don't waste your time trying to unbolt the cross over pipe. Just unbolt from the down pipe and head, and pull the head bolts. Then pick one head up at a time and pull the head in, and slip the manifold bolts over the exhaust manifold studs.

mlrtime99

When I did the relay arm recall they said my runner had been in to re tighten the head bolts but no head gasket job. Are you thinking some dealer might actually cover this of just wondering the history?

Good idea on keeping the vac lines in place.

sb5walker

Yeah, I think there's a chance they might still cover it. If your local dealer says no, you could try a different dealer or even contact Toyota's American headquarters: http://www.toyota.com/help/contactus.html

But if you can't get them to cover it, these threads may be of help:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=334010
http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/ar....jsp?id=186574
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-pics-183911/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...elt-now-90719/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...bution-146629/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...lt-job-122420/
http://www.instructables.com/id/1994...lt-Replacment/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...vations-32812/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...k-3vze-116617/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...nkshaft-86259/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-help-134618/

I recommend following the factory manual.

You'll need a tool to hold the cam pulleys in position while you remove the INSANELY tight bolts, and you'll need it again to torque them in place, as well as holding the crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer) when you mount that. this post has links to a bunch of different tool designs: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...14#post2924914 I have found the strap wrench made from a 4 foot 2 by 4 and the old timing belt works really well. In fact I just used it today to hold my crankshaft pulley while I torqued the bolt to 181 ft lbs. It worked great. It's the first link in the above post.

When it comes time to mount the timing belt, be aware that you CAN attach the cam pulleys before mounting the belt. The fsm suggests that you can't but you definitely can and it's easier to mount them first.

I find this technique works well for mounting the belt: Position the driver side cam pulley exactly on the mark. Position the passenger cam pulley a half tooth clockwise of the mark (as viewed from the front of the vehicle looking back). Position the crankshaft pulley a half tooth counter-clockwise. Mount the lower idler pulley (the tensioner) but tighten it as much out of the way as possible (against the tension spring).

Then place belt around driver cam pulley (if using a toyota belt there will be timing marks on the belt). Then route belt under the upper idler and around passenger cam pulley. Then position passenger cam pulley exactly on the mark. Route belt around water pump pulley and then around crankshaft pulley. Position crankshaft pulley exactly on mark. Route belt around tensioner pulley, and loosen the adjustment bolt so pulley is free to press against and tension the belt.

92-95 have a slightly different idler pulley design with a tensioner, which the 88-91 engines lack. Follow fsm procedure for tensioning belt on the newer motors. To tension the belt on the earlier design, attach lower idler & spring with pivot bolt not fully tight so pulley can move, rotate engine two full revolutions TDC to TDC so the spring can tension belt, then torque lower idler, leaving spring in place. Check that the marks on both cam pulleys align with the marks on the backplate. On my veezy, the cam marks do not exactly align with the backplate marks, but when in the right position the marked cam tooth is closer to the backplate mark than any other tooth is. (If you used a Toyota belt with timing marks, those will have traveled.)

Trainwreckinseattle

Book time is around 14.5 hours. Assuming a full shop setting and professional mechanic.

I have done them. I hate doing them. Also If your oil is milkshaked it HAS done bearing damage and they will eventually fail after you put it back together. Keep in mind the valves are not very user friendly especially for someone who doesn't have experience with them. I have seen many burnt valves not long after a novice performed 3.0 HG replacement.

nate9915

dealer will cover it. i just bought my 93 in april called the dealership last week gave them my vin i brought it in for them to look at it they came back said i qualify for the recall and scheduled an apointment when i brought it in they gave me a 2010 tacoma for a rental and they changed my head gaskets for free. i have 230,000 and running good just wanted to get them changed while it was free

tried4x2signN

...... delete, wrong guy.........