How do I test the back window relay on a 2nd gen? - YotaTech Forums



86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

How do I test the back window relay on a 2nd gen?

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Old 11-26-2016, 06:22 PM   #1
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How do I test the back window relay on a 2nd gen?

I pulled the relay but it looks like the previous owner already tried repairing it according to this write up https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f128...runner-137310/ Is there anyway to test it with a multimeter? With the relay hooked up and the truck's ignition in the ACC position, the main wiring connection to the back window was getting 12V. Is that all I have to know to be sure it's working properly?

Here's the relay I pulled out



Previous owner set up a wire straight from the back window motor right to the front seat and from there you have to plug it into the cigarette lighter to make it go up/down, and you have to manually switch the wires I'm just trying to get the back window switches working properly as a winter project

. I think the reason why it's not working is because the driver side tailgate latch is not latching on properly and I think all controls to the rear window are disabled in that instance. There's even a sticker covering up the "Back Door" light haha

Last edited by mattyboi; 11-26-2016 at 06:41 PM.
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Old 11-26-2016, 06:47 PM   #2
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I don't have a 4runner, so I have no first-hand knowledge.

But this http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...arWindow.shtml write up seems to have an enormous amount of information.

Good luck!
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Old 11-26-2016, 08:55 PM   #3
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I don't have a 4runner, so I have no first-hand knowledge.

But this http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...arWindow.shtml write up seems to have an enormous amount of information.

Good luck!
Thanks never seen that write it before.

Also will a 1st gen relay fit into a 2nd gen? I know someone who's parting out a 1st gen.
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Old 11-26-2016, 10:55 PM   #4
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Also will a 1st gen relay fit into a 2nd gen? I know someone who's parting out a 1st gen.
The relays are not the same between the two. I have one from a 2nd gen that I pulled from a yard before I knew they wouldn't interchange with my 1st gen. You can have it if you pay shipping.
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Old 11-27-2016, 05:54 AM   #5
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Red face

You need to fix the problem with the safety switch because even a working relay will not fix the problem.

In fact your relay might be just fine.

The last owner bypassed the safety (A real good way to break the window)

Just what year 2nd gen carries a wide range Toyota loves to switch up colors in the wiring harness

It is quite possible to test every function but unless you have the print quite easy to have it melt .
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Old 11-27-2016, 12:50 PM   #6
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You need to fix the problem with the safety switch because even a working relay will not fix the problem.

In fact your relay might be just fine.

The last owner bypassed the safety (A real good way to break the window)

Just what year 2nd gen carries a wide range Toyota loves to switch up colors in the wiring harness

It is quite possible to test every function but unless you have the print quite easy to have it melt .
Yup gonna try and deal with that first. With my multimeter I found that the connection to the safety latch is getting only 0.4V, with the car on and off. Should it be getting 12V? Just have no idea where these wires go and where to look.

I found " Back Door Power Window and Control System " page BE-74 in the 90-95 4runner FSM goes through all the tests. But first I need to reconnect the back window motor to the wiring harness and find a testing power source. I'll leave that for another day :p

Last edited by mattyboi; 11-27-2016 at 01:58 PM.
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Old 11-28-2016, 11:17 AM   #7
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I don't mean to be condescending. A relay is an electrical switch (lots of "etechs" I work with don't get that).
They have a control side (or a low voltage depending on app), and a component side (and can be high voltage). So like a 12V relay, if there is power thru the primary / low V side, the "coil" inside will be energized. When power is present the secondary or load, will be closed (low ohms) or open (high ohms) depending on if the relay is NO (normally open) or NC (closed).

If your relay functions, then there's another problem that they ran another bypass. So then look for a safety switch somewhere that is stuck. Wiring diagrams work well.
Hope this helps.
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Old 11-28-2016, 06:14 PM   #8
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I don't mean to be condescending. A relay is an electrical switch (lots of "etechs" I work with don't get that).
They have a control side (or a low voltage depending on app), and a component side (and can be high voltage). So like a 12V relay, if there is power thru the primary / low V side, the "coil" inside will be energized. When power is present the secondary or load, will be closed (low ohms) or open (high ohms) depending on if the relay is NO (normally open) or NC (closed).

If your relay functions, then there's another problem that they ran another bypass. So then look for a safety switch somewhere that is stuck. Wiring diagrams work well.
Hope this helps.
No not condescending at all. Just wasn't sure which contacts to check for continuity but I figured that out. There is continuity on the high amperage side but I'm not sure how to test the low amperage side if that makes any sense.

Also is there anyway to by pass the tail gate lock sensor? Mine's either broken because the dash still has the "back door" light illuminated or there's something else that's causing the light to stay on. Could be that the tail gate motor isn't connected is my guess.
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Old 11-29-2016, 09:58 PM   #9
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I will see if I can find my manual manana. Maybe give you some places to look for, cuz I don't remember pics too well!
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