jungle_runner

I want to re-wire the rear door closed latch switch, A-pilar shell bolt switch, and rear wiper blade switch so that my truck thinks that all are as they should be to allow the rear window to roll up/down.

I may not do the rear door closed latch switch because that actually comes in handy, but that one seems the easiest: There are three wires going to the switch ... Green, Blue, and White (ground) ... how do I rewire to make the signal always closed?



Thanks!

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

12voltguy has a rear window switch kit

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Just study the wiring diagram and jumper each switch connector as needed:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...arWindow.shtml

Most are closed/grounded when the switch is actuated.

jungle_runner

Jumper the switch ... meaning ... add a wire from the input to the output to bypass the switch?

How do you know what is in and what is out? Can you tell me a little wiring basics on closing the circuit?

Thanks

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Jumper; as in make a little wire jumper and shove the ends into the connector that used to go the the switch, something like this:



And for a switch, no in or out, just has a pair of contacts that are either open or closed. Depending on the way the switch works, you either add a jumper wire to make the relay box "think" the switch is closed ot just leave the connector open (i.e. no jumper installed) to make it "think" the switch is open.

Which way is which? Depends on the switch. For example, the "Cover Top Switch" is closed when the top is in place (see below):

jungle_runner

thanks for the pics ... i was busy making an image myself

and it seems that i've got the right idea now ... thanks!

michalik_piotr

i took mine to an autoelectric and said "hardwire it" and now it works even with out the key in the ignition. i love it. no more problems. cost me $60.

jungle_runner

awesome idea, especially that it works without the key in the ignition ... i'm wondering how to get power to the switch all the time ... 4Crawler?

it's not $60 that it might cost, I just really like to know how stuff works ...

i've pulled out all the interior panels and i'm following the wires around

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Soldered two little jumper wires on my relay box and did the same thing:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ow.shtml#Relay

Takes more time to get the box out and back in than it does to do the modification.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

See post above. Power is already in the box, all you do is to tie the inside switch contacts to the tailgate switch contacts and the tailgate works all the time, so viola, now the inside switch works all the time, too.

jungle_runner

sounds easy enough ... tomorrow i'll pull out the relay module and solder jumpers onto the relay module from pin 4 to 11 and from pin 5 to 12 ... great article and good notes ... i'm going to go with the first option because i want to bypass all the other switch requirements (no small children yet, thank God) ... i always do the same thing ... get in and forget to lock the rear door

thanks

jungle_runner

Turns out that A-pilar shell bolt switch was bad. This is easy to bypass:

Pull out the drivers side rear panel (behind the roll cage). The A-pilar bolt screws into a little black box that has two wires going into it. Simply snip both wires and connect them to close the circuit.

linuxrunner

I did it via 4crawlers instructions, took out the little module and soldered, took like 15 minutes and now the windows goes up and down when the truck is off. I also added another switch to the back for when i am sleeping back there i don't have to crawl up to the front switch.

Mine bolt switch still works because i was afraid of bumping the switch with the top of going 55