How can I improve the gas mileage on my 3vz?
#1
How can I improve the gas mileage on my 3vz?
I just put in a rebuilt engine, with new plugs gapped to .031, new wires (5.5mm, they look real small, got them form napa, I'm thinking about getting new ones that are a little bigger, would this make a difference?), new this new that, but I get aweful gas mileage, 180-190 mi. per tank, lots of highway driving. I searched but only found threads with posts of how many mpg people get, I want to know how to IMPROVE my gas mielage. The timing is set to 8*.
I believe I may have messed up the settings on my throttle body a little bit. I was unsure how to adjust my idle, because it was idleing real low. The obvious flathead screw wasn't doing it. So i noticed a nut with an allen bolt on the same side as that screw, I messed with that a little bit but that did nothing. So I took off what the service manual calls the 'dapshot,' its the cone looking thing that has a real long flathead bolt holding it on. After I removed this I could get to a nut and back out an allen bolt, which adjusted the idle fine. I got it to idle decent, but there was a hesitation before acceleration.
As it turns out, it was idleing wierd because I had two of the vacuum lines mixed up, I swapped them and then I fired it up and it was idleing at like 2k rpm, but smoother and initial exceleration was better. So I tried to undo what I did with the nut and I got it to idle at a decent RPM, ~900. But now it has a short hesitation before it accelerates like before, but usually when its cold. What to all the nuts do? Does anyone have decent picture or diagram of how the vac lines are suppose to be run, I am almost sure I have them right, but not positive.
I am thinking about an intake system along wiht exhaust, would there be a noticable increase in mpg with these mods?
Please help gas prices are killing us and it hard to afford $45 every few days to fill this thing up.
I believe I may have messed up the settings on my throttle body a little bit. I was unsure how to adjust my idle, because it was idleing real low. The obvious flathead screw wasn't doing it. So i noticed a nut with an allen bolt on the same side as that screw, I messed with that a little bit but that did nothing. So I took off what the service manual calls the 'dapshot,' its the cone looking thing that has a real long flathead bolt holding it on. After I removed this I could get to a nut and back out an allen bolt, which adjusted the idle fine. I got it to idle decent, but there was a hesitation before acceleration.
As it turns out, it was idleing wierd because I had two of the vacuum lines mixed up, I swapped them and then I fired it up and it was idleing at like 2k rpm, but smoother and initial exceleration was better. So I tried to undo what I did with the nut and I got it to idle at a decent RPM, ~900. But now it has a short hesitation before it accelerates like before, but usually when its cold. What to all the nuts do? Does anyone have decent picture or diagram of how the vac lines are suppose to be run, I am almost sure I have them right, but not positive.
I am thinking about an intake system along wiht exhaust, would there be a noticable increase in mpg with these mods?
Please help gas prices are killing us and it hard to afford $45 every few days to fill this thing up.
Last edited by DSMstar; 04-11-2006 at 08:04 PM.
#2
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3.0...better gas mileage...good luck.
Timing stock comes at 10*(pretty sure), most people advance it. I don't see any advantage of retarding it.
The intake and exhaust modifications won't really help mileage that much, mabey a little, but not much. They help the power, and throttle responce of the engine. Better bang for your buck basically.
Keeping it properly tuned, clean, and keeping up on regular maintenance is probably the best thing you can do.
Timing stock comes at 10*(pretty sure), most people advance it. I don't see any advantage of retarding it.
The intake and exhaust modifications won't really help mileage that much, mabey a little, but not much. They help the power, and throttle responce of the engine. Better bang for your buck basically.
Keeping it properly tuned, clean, and keeping up on regular maintenance is probably the best thing you can do.
#3
Contributing Member
getting larger sparkplug wires wont do any thing toyotas seem to like oems or ngks best ..as for gas mileage theres really notting you can do but get used to it or you could buy a truck with a 22re .... also what size tires do you have
#4
Keep your tires aired up to the maximum proper inflation pressure. It's cheap and will get you a couple of extra miles per gallon , usually. Don't carry any unnecessary weight. New dist. rotor cap and button. Use NGK or Denso spark plugs. Make sure the AFM door is properly adjusted and working smoothly. Run a couple bottles of fuel injector cleaner thru on ONE tank of gas. Clean the throttle body and associated air passages ( DON'T use regular carb cleaner,, use cleaner designed for throttle bodies or you might fry your TPS). Check the TPS for proper adjustment and operation.
You can 'try' running the base engine ignition timing at 15 degrees BTDC. However, doing so may cause you to have to run a higher grade of gasoline ( more expensive). I run mine at 15 degrees and use the 89 octane midgrade. Only get occasional, very mild, pinging. Prolly has more to do with the humidity of the air, wheter I get ping or not.
I usually get about 14 mpg in purely around-town driving and 19-21 mpg on the highway. That's with a 92 model 3.0 auto tranny with 183,000 miles on the odometer.
Mike in AR
You can 'try' running the base engine ignition timing at 15 degrees BTDC. However, doing so may cause you to have to run a higher grade of gasoline ( more expensive). I run mine at 15 degrees and use the 89 octane midgrade. Only get occasional, very mild, pinging. Prolly has more to do with the humidity of the air, wheter I get ping or not.
I usually get about 14 mpg in purely around-town driving and 19-21 mpg on the highway. That's with a 92 model 3.0 auto tranny with 183,000 miles on the odometer.
Mike in AR
#5
Originally Posted by DSMstar
180-190 mi. per tank, .
If I were you, I'd get a new O2 sensor, as well as a new air and fuel filter. A new cap and rotor would help too. FYI, toyota oem iginition parts are the best.
#6
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You might want to take this with a grain of salt, and without sounding like one of those stupid late night info-mercials, you might want to try one of those Tornados. Like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Turbo...QQcmdZViewItem
I know a few guys that have tries them and did notice a noticeable change (to the good) in mpg and power. Please note that the mpg was only 3-5, but you figure if your only getting 17 and 3 or 4 mpg to it, it going to help. Especially at $2.80 a gallon.
I am going to try one once I get mine on the road.
I know a few guys that have tries them and did notice a noticeable change (to the good) in mpg and power. Please note that the mpg was only 3-5, but you figure if your only getting 17 and 3 or 4 mpg to it, it going to help. Especially at $2.80 a gallon.
I am going to try one once I get mine on the road.
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#8
Contributing Member
yea thats pretty bad gas mileage as everyone is saying
timing is 10* stock..i would fix that
what size tires and what gears are you running
auto or manual?
is all of your emission gear working properly?
I have an 89 3.0 5speed 4.56 gears and 225\35\15 tires...i get 15-16 around town if i dont drive like a nut and easily 20-22 highway.
I have an intake and exhaust but i maybe get 1-2mpg better than i used to without them...overall throttle response and pull is better though
timing is 10* stock..i would fix that
what size tires and what gears are you running
auto or manual?
is all of your emission gear working properly?
I have an 89 3.0 5speed 4.56 gears and 225\35\15 tires...i get 15-16 around town if i dont drive like a nut and easily 20-22 highway.
I have an intake and exhaust but i maybe get 1-2mpg better than i used to without them...overall throttle response and pull is better though
#12
having your timing at 8* is killing you. you are not getting the bang out of the gas & hence it is stumbling just off idle - almost like flooding. Fix the timing first, adjust idle & see how it goes
#13
The tires are 265/70/15. I am almost certain the manual said 8*, but I'll advance it. I don't drive it harshly, pretty normal really, I do live in washington and there is a fair amount of hills i have to climb. I guess I can't be certain that all the emmissions stuff is working properly, but I am assuming so considering I was getting 220ish to a tank before the engine rebuild.
So I'll make sure the tires are inflated properly, advance the timing some, and play with the throttle body a little.
Does anyone know what all the allen screws and bolts doon the tb?
So I'll make sure the tires are inflated properly, advance the timing some, and play with the throttle body a little.
Does anyone know what all the allen screws and bolts doon the tb?
#14
After some research I have found that my 4runner has 4.875 gears. Although it also says it came with a 22re, so I don't know how accurate that is. Can I get different gears for peformance/fuel economy, what would you recomend? I am planning on doing a small lift ~2", and the biggest tires I can fit under that, 33's from what i understand.
Last edited by DSMstar; 04-12-2006 at 02:24 PM.
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