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Hot wiring the rear window motor?
Hey everyone, I busted my rear tail light the other day and I’ve always had problems with my rear window it’ll click when I try and roll it up and nothing at all when I try to go down, I replaced the motor and got the same results. I was wondering if there was a way I could hook the motor up to a battery to get it to just roll down so I can get my tail light replaced and if so some instructions/pictures would be greatly appreciated! |
if you take the inner trim panel off and remove the metal panel under it you can easily locate the connector for the window motor, sorry no pics handy. connecting power and ground to the two wires will make the motor move, if it is trying to go up reverse your wires.
Always a good idea to have a fuse in your jumper setup in case you ground something out. |
Originally Posted by akwheeler
(Post 52416832)
if you take the inner trim panel off and remove the metal panel under it you can easily locate the connector for the window motor, sorry no pics handy. connecting power and ground to the two wires will make the motor move, if it is trying to go up reverse your wires.
Always a good idea to have a fuse in your jumper setup in case you ground something out. |
Sorry, hard to see words.
What are you dealing with? What year Escalade? :) |
if you can figure out what the window motor is follow the wires from it to the first connector you come to, I'm not pulling mine apart to send you pictures and I don't remember what color it is. If you unplug that connector you should be able to connect wires to a battery with a fuse holder in line with one of them and VERY carefully touch them to the contacts in that connector to move the motor up and down. DO NOT touch the wires together or you will blow the fuse, if you have no fuse you will burn wires/hands/parts etc.
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Originally Posted by 94FromHell
(Post 52416835)
Sorry I’m a total rookie with this stuff, I have the rear panel all torn apart currently are you talking about the blue connector piece that comes off of the motor, do I need to get some alligator clips and wedge them in there while hooked up to the positive and negative coming off the battery or do I need to cut the connector coming from the motor and expose the wires?
AKWheeler has it right (as usual). There is almost certainly a single connector to the motor, with two wires. Disconnect that connector (DON'T cut wires. DON'T try to hot wire the motor with it connected to the rest of the vehicle.) With your fused jumper wire, hook ground ("minus") to one wire, and +12v to the other. If the motor runs the "wrong" way, reverse the wires. This is only going to move the glass for you while you're sitting there with the jumper; it's not a permanent fix. |
Another thing you could try is to wiggle the rear wiper arm while you try the key switch, sometimes the limit switch in the wiper motor locks out the motor movement. it is designed to keep you from pinching your wiper arm in the window, so it only works when the arm is parked all the way off of the glass
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Originally Posted by akwheeler
(Post 52416853)
Another thing you could try is to wiggle the rear wiper arm while you try the key switch, sometimes the limit switch in the wiper...
Or disconnect the connector to the wiper assembly to absolutely eliminate doubt on the wiper park/retract wire. On the first-gen that switch grounds the limit input of window control relay. Also, does tailgate key work? THOROUGHLY Inspect the flex cable between body and tailgate? |
I installed a toggle switch in an inconspicuous place on the dash to bypass the 100 miles of wiring, relays, fuses... put in an inline fuse and ran individual wires to the battery and motor...
it's worked perfect ever since and i don't have to have the key in the ignition to work my rear window... it works for me. |
Lol love your username
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Good info here
https://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTr...arWindow.shtml |
Originally Posted by RAD4Runner
(Post 52416837)
Sorry, hard to see words.
What are you dealing with? What year Escalade? :)
Originally Posted by akwheeler
(Post 52416844)
if you can figure out what the window motor is follow the wires from it to the first connector you come to, I'm not pulling mine apart to send you pictures and I don't remember what color it is. If you unplug that connector you should be able to connect wires to a battery with a fuse holder in line with one of them and VERY carefully touch them to the contacts in that connector to move the motor up and down. DO NOT touch the wires together or you will blow the fuse, if you have no fuse you will burn wires/hands/parts etc.
Originally Posted by RAD4Runner
(Post 52416856)
Yes.
Or disconnect the connector to the wiper assembly to absolutely eliminate doubt on the wiper park/retract wire. On the first-gen that switch grounds the limit input of window control relay. Also, does tailgate key work? THOROUGHLY Inspect the flex cable between body and tailgate? |
Originally Posted by 87-4runner
(Post 52416889)
I installed a toggle switch in an inconspicuous place on the dash to bypass the 100 miles of wiring, relays, fuses... put in an inline fuse and ran individual wires to the battery and motor...
it's worked perfect ever since and i don't have to have the key in the ignition to work my rear window... it works for me. |
Originally Posted by 94FromHell
(Post 52416907)
Sorry for the late response had to drop the kids off at soccer practice it’s a 2010 😉 your username is 94fromhell, and you're posting in the 86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS forum about a 2010? I know next to nothing about those so, I'm out. |
A 2010 rear window circuit is pretty different from the early ones. Toyota uses a "Multiplex Door ECU" to control door and window functions. The window switches are just inputs to this computer and then the computer sends power to the commanded circuit(s). That is all I really know without actually looking at your 4Runner myself. Thread starter did not want to tell us what he is actually working on... :nono: :roll: :safari: |
Originally Posted by akwheeler
(Post 52416910)
Wait, What?
your username is 94fromhell, and you're posting in the 86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS forum about a 2010? I know next to nothing about those so, I'm out.
Originally Posted by old87yota
(Post 52416919)
A moderator will have to move this thread.
A 2010 rear window circuit is pretty different from the early ones. Toyota uses a "Multiplex Door ECU" to control door and window functions. The window switches are just inputs to this computer and then the computer sends power to the commanded circuit(s). That is all I really know without actually looking at your 4Runner myself. :safari: |
Originally Posted by 94FromHell
(Post 52416909)
I like the idea of this, how we’re you able to get the wires you ran to stay inside of the connector on the motor back there? I was sitting back there poking and prodding to get it to go down |
Originally Posted by 94FromHell
(Post 52416924)
It was a joke referring to his Escalade comment, the car I’m working on is a 1994 4Runner! OK, we're all awake now. :) Always specify Model-year-engine-transmission-trim because they mean a lot, and 86-95 cover 2 gens, AND in one year, there could be one gen of 4Runner and another gen Pickup. Also US or Canada models on later models make some differences. Yes, as said above, 12V directly to motor will turn it one way. Reverse polarity to turn the other way. |
Originally Posted by 94FromHell
(Post 52416924)
It was a joke referring to his Escalade comment, the car I’m working on is a 1994 4Runner!
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Originally Posted by 94FromHell
(Post 52416924)
It was a joke referring to his Escalade comment, the car I’m working on is a 1994 4Runner! BUT I would have been nice to tell us what you are working on in post #1...... You might as well be working on a 1999 Suzuki Grand Vitara........ or a Little Tikes Cozy Coup..... :roll: :safari: |
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