4runner4ever

Hi all,

It's been a while since I last posted here. Simply did not find the time to do anything usefull to report in here
Until a few months ago when I decided to restore the 4R and finish the 2JZ like I wanted from the start.

So took the body off, had the chassis galvanized and had a good long look at the engine when she was out.
I got me some parts like larger injectors, different sensore, ECU's etc., turbo valve covers, sensors and what more. The greddy I used before solved my idle issues, but did not repair anything and som thing was a miss.
So took the engine and the parts, put them on a pallet and send em to the suprasports in haarlem. Let's see what he can do and what the dyno will reveal...

We'll, it revealed a lot....
Issues we found on the dyno included; heat under the hood cause minor fractures, even in the high temp silicone hoses. Stock ECU wasn't working properly, blow off sometimes got stuck in the open position, wastegate was too small etc etc.

So we took everything off the engine; stock sensors, stock ECU, Greddy emanage, stock injectors, the Karman meter, engine wiring loom, lambda's, all vacuum lines and relays, until nothing was left.

Only a bare mechanical block was remaining.

The stock distributor was removed and replaced with an electronic sensor, injector coils were added to all the sparkplugs.
A VEMS was added incl. a new custom wiring loom, vacuum sensor on intakemanifold and a professional EGR sensor directly behind the turbo.
Injectors were replaced with larger ones, new plugs etc.

Than we started to do dyno runs for the fuel mapping.
After a few runs we found that the turbowastegate was too small too handle the flow, turbopressure ran up quickly and didn't stop......
The built in wastegate was closed permanently and we did a temp fix with a larger wastegate directly on my intakemanifold. Luckily I blocked off the flange and didn't cut it off when I first build the engine.

Some more runs were made to finish the mapping.

The temp wastegate didn't help much either, it openend up too soon, but we were able to get a constant 10.2 psi (still is a high compression engine).

The result was 375hp and 400Nm torque before the (cheap chinese) blow off started opening and we lost pressure. We did the mapping up to 400 hp, which it should run after a new blow off and decent wastegate.

I have to say, standing next to the engine at 7000 rpm and 375hp with the blow off and wategate opening.....

O, here some pics if somebody is interested:
(The engine is a mess since all the old sensors are also in, just to block everything off.)

At the dyno:





And this after a few seconds:



The radiant heat is ginormous.

4x4climber

Don't want to sound like a complete a$$ but... Is this your first time trying to setup a turbo motor? Cuz I see a WHOLE lot of reliablity issues... and a lot of things some one would do without fully understanding the way things work properly in a turbo system.

Not efficient for power or reliability. There is a reason everything glows like that... And it is not a good thing. Turbo will not last very long working 100% all the time... with a boost leak you are creating yourself after the turbo..... You need to change your setup in many ways. If you are interested or care to know how to fix your problems. I'd be more then happy to take the time to share experience and some of what I know.

There is WAAAY more to turbo's then slap it on n go. Especially trying to do things half azz and all azzbackwardz... won't get you far. And trying to fix problems the wrong way and creating more problems will cost you in the future... There is reasons behind all yer issues... You could get waay more outta that setup and much more reliably if it were done right.

xxxtreme22r

a glowing manifold most of the time means raw fuel is being burned in the exhaust manifold or there is a major restriction in the exhaust flow.

4x4climber

lots of exhaust. nowhere to go. super sharp exhaust bend right after the turbo. Non wastegated turbo + massive boost leak. (wastegate on intake manifold) i am assuming to control boost.. OMG.... unburnt fuel from your setup running all messed up and backwards.. not enough air.. too much fuel..

yeah that might all create a glowing hot turbo. and extreme under hood temps

4runner4ever

Yeah i know it looks like a mess.
But have been driving this engine with turbo for 3 years now with only some idle issues after hard driving. Always been very reliable.


Allready started fixing everything permanently last week, please take in mind all work was done on the dyno with no prep before. The dyno was reserved the next day, so we were running out of time fast.
Just for your comfort; the engine looked like this when I took it out after 3 years in the 4R, only had disconnected 1 hose and the turbo heatshield when I took the pic;

snobdds

Or it could be it's running too lean creating massive amounts of heat. But I am no expert on turbos.

I am sure it's only in the beginning stages of the engine tune. Keep us posted.

xxxtreme22r

It's also not that uncommon to make your manifold glow on a dyno. Just look at youtube.

There is a possibility it's running lean as well. But timing being off is a possibility too. In either case glowing manifolds will eventually lead to melted valves.

Mandy Tuning

most turbo engines i tune on the Mustang load dyno turn header chilly red as my Raptor atv as well.retarded timing is the most common cause for high egt,afr in both extreme ends will do same,high overlap cams too.if your egt are not high.afr under 11.5 and optimum timing but they turn red,can be the header material,anyway a long pass will turn them red no matter what,with the hood closed you will not notice it as most people do.

diablo

Ive had the turbo glow when working my CAT 977 hard but not the whole exhaust,maybe too much fuel?

4runner4ever

We actually had all the issues you guys mentioned, high egt, timing off, too lean, too rich etc. Even a stuck new injector.
We solved all of those, that's were that big mess of hoses, wires and tubing came from in the first place. I'm sure off that cause I watched all gauges myself for the last 10-15 runs, especially egt.

The manifold was even hotter at the first few (short) runs.
The boss from suprasports, who did the mapping, didn't even blink, he assured me that this was quit normal after running at boost and max rpm.
At normal rpm's you could hardly see any colouring. I took the pictures a few seconds, 10-12 or so, after one of the last runs.
The manifold and exhaust are full SS, I presume that influences the colour a bit also.

I did have a look at youtube, and your comments, so feeling a bit 'safer' allready.