TMacKinnon

So I have an 86 4x4 which I recently swapped an 89 22re, transmission and T case into (Had an 88 in it before according to felt pen on the fan) The swap went quite well and almost everything matched up great (Had a more mechanically inclined buddy helping me out) The truck started up on the first try and continues to start great save for a few exhaust leaks and a leaky Injector Oring which I have replaced. I also discovered 2 vacuum lines with no home. I have looked everywhere I can think of. In the before pictures they cannot be seen over the plenum. They start at the very back of the engine and are quite long. The truck starts on the first turn of the key each time but my RPM is incredibly high and my engine will overheat after about 5-10 minutes of idling. I have tried adjusting the idle screw aswell as the throttle cable but with no luck. So I am thinking the problem is caused by these 2 mystery vacuum lines. In the first picture the red circle shows where the lines start and the green circle shows what pipes they are attached to. I also have a line labled "purge" next to a "tank" line that is not connected to anything. Any Input would be Greatly appreciated.

Pic 1
Pic 2

thook

It's hard for me to tell much from a minute or two look at the pics. Don't suppose you could get better ones? Maybe even an overview of the entire top of the engine to see what might be missing or misrouted.

Purge line would go from the "P" port on the top of the throttle body to the EVAP/purge canister on the pass. side of the firewall. I don't remember offhand which port on the can it goes to offhand, though. I'd have to do some referencing.

On the tank line, is only one end not connected to anything? If so, where does the other end terminate?

Maybe someone else will chime in before I get back with some info.

Edit: Since your motor is from an '89, you will have some additional switches and probably emissions equipment I'm not entirely familiar with. I have an '86. But, there are online references I can utilize.

Later

thook

Here's a link for you to start with:

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h61.pdf

This goes in detail on the EGR system, atleast. It will give you some idea of where to start if you take note of where all of the lines pertinent to the EGR are routed presently and compare.

Will be back with more info.......

thook

Another: http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h62.pdf

This may be enough for now. I'll wait on your replies.

TMacKinnon

Thank you for the speedy reply and wealth of information. I will check all this out and try to post more high quality pics by tonight (Otherones were taken with a cellphone at dusk)

thook

Okie dokie.....

TMacKinnon

I just achieved a minor victory, I only have one mystery vacuum line oppose to 3 now. Turns out one of the lines coming from the the back of the engine was the purge (Just had a line on each end). However I have discovered another problem. There are two electrical plugs on the top of the valve cover one is a greenish blue colour and the other is red. Both have electrical aswell as vacuum lines coming out of them. The wire to the red plug has been twisted off and will need to be replaced I am heading to the dealership now to get a replacement. It just so happens that this red plug is the other end of my last mystery vacuum line. I am unaware what these plugs do or even what they are called so I have taken some more pictures (Used a better cam this time) The Vacuum line closer to the rear of the engine going into the red plug (Without the cyllinder thing on the line) is the other end of my mystery line. Any more info would be awesome. Thanks in advance!

red plug vacuum lines
other end of red plug vacuum line, Purge line connected aswell.
Shot of all the lines

thook

Like I said, I'm not terribly familier with all the differences on '89 engines, but to me the objects in question sound like the fuel pressure up vacuum switching valve and the other the a/c idle up switching valve (VSV's, for short). Pretty sure '89's have a switching valve for the EGR, but I think those were mounted on the side of the valve cover. I could be wrong, though.

Edit: Just noticed you have links to pics. More replies in a moment.

thook

Okay.....I've reached my limit. I can't tell you how these lines are to be routed correctly. Or, which VSV's are for which, for sure. Atleast, not without some research. Try sending a PM to a fellow that goes by 4runnerx3. He has a bunch of diagrams and that should help. Hell.....he may even have a 4runner of your year/model.

In the meantime, I'll see what I can do.

TMacKinnon

Alrighty, thank you so much. You have been an excellent help. I had a feeling that these plugs were the VSV's but I could not confirm it. This should get me on my way once again! I will get some more research in and hopefully get this solved. Thanks for the help!

*Edit* with this new information identifying the plugs, I should be able to to use the vacuum map I have found on Yotatech to solve this, thanks man!

TMacKinnon

I believe I have gotten the vacuum lines correctly hooked up but the truck is still Idling super high and I am lost for ideas. I will be searching for other causes for high idles but if anyone else knows anything about high idling issues not related to vacuum lines feel free to let me know. Thanks

TMacKinnon

I have just discovered a device called the IDLE CONTROL VALVE located under the front of the throttle body and a light has clicked on in my brain. During the engine swap there was small electrical device with what appeared to be coolent hoses hooked up to it on the old engine that matches the location of the ICV, but no such device on the new engine. When we discovered it, we examined both engines carefully and it appeared that the new engine had an intergrated version of the device that was incompatible with the old one so we left it off (including a plug that lead back to the harness) "The ICV is a thermostatic control device. Water passes through and heats up thermostat and closes air passage and idles engine down." This sounds like it could be the problem. However I am not 100% on that as I am not sure if my mystery device is actually the ICV I will a picture of it on the old engine as the new engine appears to be incompatible with it (I will be testing this theory for the next few hours...)

Is this the ICV??

rexandfx

Sorry I am of no help but please post up if you figure your high idle issue.... Mine is idling a about 2k-2200rpms after a brand new head I installed.

I start it up and it idles up from 500 up to 2000 in just a few seconds

thook

Hat's off to you, MacKinnon. Fantastic research! <<<<applause>>>>

When you swapped engines, did you also swap the ECU? An '86 ECU won't run the '89 electronic components right.

thook

I just looked at your pics. The first one is the idle control valve for the '86. You're '89 model, just as you've figured, doesn't need the electrical connection. That's for heating the '86 model. This is where ECU differences start coming into play.

It occurred to me, just now, that if those VSV's are open, this could explain you higher idle......that is if they are open when needn't be. When energized (under normal conditions.....barring any malfunctions), they open to raise the idle a bit. For the a/c VSV, this would help offset the load place on the engine by the functioning of the a/c. For the FPR (fuel pressure regulator), the VSV opens to raise fuel pressure and prevent vapor formation when cranking under hot engine conditions. As well, under heavy load.

Linky poohs.......

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h22.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h61.pdf

Air induction.....IACV info, and more.....
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h26.pdf

I can't find one on a/c VSV functioning. But, the principle is still the same. A/C comes on, VSV is energized under load, all that....but, I really don't know the specifics. My best guess is, though, it's energized atleast when at idle. It seems to me that's when it would need to. At idle, there is higher vacuum than under open throttle conditions, but there's less power generated from the engine to offset the a/c pull.

TMacKinnon

Haha, thanks. I did not swap the ECU. To be honest I am not even sure what year ECU is in there right now. It could be an 86(year of the truck) or an 88(Year of the old engine that was swapped) I guess a way to find out would be if an 86 ecu is compatable with an 88 engine. I will look into this. I may have access to an 89 ecu for free so I will work on getting ahold of it and putting it in then I will post up what I find. Thanks for the info!

thook

I don't believe an '88 ECU will either. I believe changes were made in '89. FYI...

You're welcome!

TMacKinnon

The new ECU did not bring down my idle, but I have it in there now so when I do get this problem resolved it will be the last of my issues. I am just reading through those links now and I hope to come up with a new theory to as what is causing this issue. Thanks for the helpful links!

thook

Sure thing. I'll keep my thinking cap on.

thook

Check the TPS to make sure it's getting IDL contact. You can either check at the diagnostic port with a paperclip to see if the idle goes down (at the T or Te1 and E1 terminals.......same as you would do to set ignition timing or pull a diagnostic code) or disconnect it while running. If you go the paperclip route, it should drop. If not, no contact. If you disconnect and no change occurs, that means no IDL contact was there in the first place. Do both with the motor warm.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...34throttle.pdf