Help with oil cooler removal
 

I've decided to change the gasket on my oil cooler (91 3.0) to try to aleviate my oil leak. How does this thing come off? Is it the big nut in the middle? I'd hate to take that nut off and actually be disassembling the cooler instead of just removing. Also, anything special need to be removed to pull this thing off, or is it just a lot of knuckle busting?

That's actually a big bolt in the middle, it goes through the cooler and attaches it to the block. Just undo it. Spec torque is 29 ft lb, but it may be tighter after 15 years.

I believe I have a leak in the same place in my 92 3.0. So, I will need to do the same thing. I've just been putting it off until warmer weather, since the leak is not 'too' bad. I think you have to drain as much of the coolant from the block and radiator as you can. It is my understanding that the coolant circulates around the oil cooler, in some fashion. I have the factory service manual copied to my hard drive, but I just haven't taken the time to look up the procedure yet. Here's a link to the FSM online, if you wanna take a stab at it.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

Mike in AR

Ive replaced the seal on my 4runner last year.

it wasnt that hard, i hit that big nut with the inpact to lossen it up, not a LOT of space to work in there. I just clamped off the collant hoses with vice grips. no need to drain the coolant.

On this truck, there is a small outlet on the water pump that leads to the oil cooler. Unfortunately, there is nothing in the FSM about the oil cooler.

Sounds like it shouldn't be too hard. Is the gasket an o-ring or paper, or what? But your right, it is really tight up in there. Also, does the oil cooler hold residual oil where it's gonna fly all over the place when I loosen that bolt?

It will have an 0-ring and residual oil will come out and if I remember correctly...a little anti freeze too.

WOW! Thanks snap-on. That's good news. How did you get into the area? Pull the wheel, and jack up the driver's side to get more room?

Thanks a bunch for your input.

Mike in AR

I dont remember if i pulled the wheel off or not. you have to take the stupid splash gaurd off. There is rubber washer looking thing on the big bolt and this werid looking o-ring with an attached flange that goes on the backside.

http://www.snjschmidt.com/pics/motor/oil_cooler.jpg

i know it doesnt show much, just kinda a "i did it" shot along with the prize i found behind it.

Youll also probibly find that coolant hose that runs from the water pump to the bottom of the cooller is all spongy as it gets coated in oil every time you change a filter.

Hey that's a GREAT pic. Thanks for sharing. Looks like you have the cooler out of the block and the back of the cooler is now facing the camera. So the O-ring is the only thing sealing the oil inside the block around the cooler?

When I purchased my 4Runner, the rubber flap was only partially attached. It looked like it had been flapping for a long time, since some of the paint on the inside of the fender was gone. I just zip-tied it back up. So, it'll be no big deal to take it off.

Thanks again!
Mike in AR

no that was just after i took the center bolt out, the thing is surprisingly heavy (like 8-10lbs) the back side looks like an oil filter bottom.

OH, OK. The rubber hose with the spring clamps on it attaches to the top side of the cooler and that's the one you pinched with the vice-grips to prevent coolant from leaking out?

Sorry for all the questions, but I'm learning a lot about these Toyota engines with this 3.0. I've really only worked on GM engines way back in the 70s and 80s. Those didn't run any kind of factory oil cooler -- may be why these Toys last so long. I never got more than 130,000 miles out of any previous GM engine I owned. I 'bought' this 3.0 92 4Runner with 145,000 on it.

Thanks a bunch!!
Mike in AR

So..how'd it go?
 

Mike-
Did you get your oil cooler off? I just tracked a leak down to this on my '95, too, so I'm headed down the same path soon. BTW - here are a couple of links that detail the removal, if it's not too late

http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...3d80160692.jsp

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...sm/engine.html

-RenHoek

Nope, I haven't removed it yet. I cleaned the area really good with gunk engine cleaner a few days before I planned to do it, and I still havent seen a drop of fresh oil in the area of the cooler. That was over a month ago. My oil is still going somewhere, I figure that it is being burnt, but no smoke from exhaust. I'm gonna switch to 10w40, and see what happens.

I have a 95 4Runner and just replaced the oil cooler gasket. It's a pretty easy job. I never disconnected the coolant lines - used vice grips to prevent any spillage. My local dealership parts guy had 2 o-rings for me - one for the cooler/black connection and 1 for the bolt/block connection. He said these always need replaced. You will have some residual oil, but just have a small container and some rags handy. the cooler should have some tabs on the back to help hold the o-ring in place when reassembling. All in all not a bad job and stopped my oil leak.

I know this is an old thread, but I didn't want to start a new one. I am in the process of replacing the gaskets and o-rings on the oil cooler. I replaced the big o-ring with attached flange on the back and the little gasket oring in the back. I also replaced the plastic/metal washer thing on the big bolt. My question is that I received two of the small o-rings that go on the back, did I just get an extra or does the other one go on the front? I didn't see one on the front when I pulled it off, but it looks like one could fit in there. Any help would be appreciated I want to get this buttoned up soon. Thanks,

Bumpity, all the toyota dealerships have closed their parts departments early. So, I can't get any help from them.

After looking at it closer, it appears that it is just an extra. It also looks that the 2wd models may use two of those.

When I got my parts from the dealer, it only called for one small oring. You must have an extra.

Yes, common area for leaks in the older 3.0's. I think you will need a 24mm socket, but yes, the large nut in the middle does it!