mapple83

94 4X4 PU 22RE- i was removing the housing to replace the thermostat and one of the only two bolts broke!!! so now there is about a 1/4" of the bolt sticking out of whatever the thing is that the housing was connected to. please help! all bright ideas welcome!

xxxtreme22r

didn't swimmerboy just do the same thing to his? Don't know how he got his bolt out but here is what I would do.

Grab a pair of vice grips grab a hold of that bolt real hard and twist. or get yourself a bolt extraction kit.

2DoorRunner

Like this?

Your lucky to have 1/4 inch sticking out. All you need to do is heat it up, spray it down with some penetrating oil, repeat if needed, then pull it out with some visegrips. Works every time. Or give just visegrips a shot first like xxx said. I have always had to use at least penetrating oil first though.

mapple83

tried the vice grips thing with penetrating spray but it wouldn't budge. i'll try to get a hold of swimmerboy and see what his trick was. btw is this a pic of yours boken off down in there on the lower left one?

peow130

Had to do this on my tchain cover.
And also on a flywheel..
Just either grab it with vice grips, or if it's set in the threads, drill it and smack a bolt extractor in it

mapple83

what do you mean drill it then smack it with a bolt extractor in it. don't you just drill the reverse bit into the broken bolt. don't understand the smacking part.

2DoorRunner

Hit it with a propane torch before spraying it down with the penetrating oil. Heat is the key.
And yeah thats mine, broken off about an 1/8th inch down. Ended up having to drill it out and helicoil it.

quiggs12

http://www.brandsplace.com/0246-kd-2419.html

Here is an example. You drill a hole and then screw this in (it is reverse threaded so you screw it in counter-clockwise) it is supposed remove your bolt. However, you should definitely soak it with penetrating oil first!

diablo

If you have a welder weld another bolt on the end of the broken one and the heat should loosen it some to put a socket on it, if not heat it up with the torch and then wrench it out

matt1992

Diablo has the right idea. Back when I did my water pump on my runner I ended up torquing down the stud bolts down way to tight and snapped off the head. lucky enough all i had to do was pull off the house and spot weld a bolt to the end, it came out like butter. Obviously you will have to replac the old fasteners with new ones.

peow130

A bolt extractor?
You drill out the hole, and theres a bit with 4 sharp edges that grip the inside of the bolt when you turn it.

mapple83

thanks guys. i know what a bolt extractor is, i just don't have much faith in them nor do i in penetrating lube in most cases. but since i'm not a welder and don't have a torch, lube and a bolt extractor seem to be my only options right now so i'll let you know how it goes tomorrow. thanks again fellas

peow130

Welll the worst that can happen is the bolt extractor fails, at which point you just drill out the hole a size up and rethread it.. also a size up

leaver_red_jr

Be careful if you use screw extractor. they can be a PITA if they break off in the bolt. I had this happen with the same bolt you are dealing with. I ended up having to use a cobalt bit (which got ruined in the process) to get the broken extractor out. If you do try an extractor, I'd recommend one like this (2nd style down on page):

http://www.mcmaster.com/#screw-extractors/=9pn561

Being that the bolt is already seized, and you are dealing with a steel bolt gong into an aluminum manifold, chances are the threads on the manifold are going to be jacked beyond repair anyway. I'd just drill it out and install an insert. This is what I ended up doing, and it worked great.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

torch pb blaster
weld more material to the stub
pb blaster
weld more material to the stub
vice grips ... viola!

Mostly everyone will tell you a variation of what i said. But you're lucky and have a 1/4" sticking out. Propane torch may not be enough heat fyi. You should use something hotter that will get the bolt red hot.

scope103

x2. The screw extractor is made of much, much harder steel than your drill bit (even a cobalt bit!)

If you take your block to a machinist, asking for him to drill out the bolt and put in a helicoil, the first thing he'll ask is "Did you break off a screw extractor in there?" Because it will be very hard to get out.

The goal is to get the heftiest screw extractor you can (like the McMaster-Carr recommended above), but if it doesn't work, be sure to give up BEFORE you break it. That stub is in there so tightly that you already broke a solid steel bolt of full size, and the screw extractor has to be smaller than the bolt in order to fit in. The next step is to drill it out and use a helicoil, and you want to have that opportunity.

mapple83

so i've taken this situation as an opportunity to get to know my truck a little more and have decided to remove the intake manifold. i'm at the stage of removing the manifold to block bolts and was wondering, there is a bolt (or something) with a round head and hex in the middle located on the top of the manifold right next to where the thermostat goes. is that a bolt that is fastened to the block also?

Birdbrain

Yeah, works every time minus the one in that picture. Oh and wait? didnt i have to help you get that out? and then tap and helicoil it for you? hmmm....

Nice.

kiyobrown

I love when people take credit for work they didn't do. CB's too, right?


If you can't get it with heat and oil like everyone has suggested, the helicoil is an easy fix. Did that trick on a front diff cover when the head of a bolt snapped off while trying to torque the bolt down. Didn't think it would snap with less then 35 ft/lbs. (forget what the FSM recommended, but I know it was less than 35. Helicoiled it, and in less then 5 minutes we wwere installing the diff back into the 4Runner.

Mudd Duck 1

Yes the round bolt with the hex goes all the way through into the head. Good luck