HELP 1995 Toyota Pickup 22re 2wd Rough idling, stalling, driving
 

I really need help! I've been working on this truck (22RE 1995 Pickup 2wd, 2.4l 4cyl) the past couple of weeks and can't figure out where to go next.

I got the truck over a year ago and have taken it all over. Started having trouble in September after I drove it across the country and ended up in Philadelphia. At first it was very sporadic & rough starting- maybe took one or two extra times after the ignition started to actually get it to catch every once in a while. By December it got so bad that it would take maybe 15 minutes of trying to start the car before it would actually catch. If I feathered the gas it helped a lot.
I got a full tune up, new spark plugs, new fuel pump, and throttle body cleaning. Not any better.
At this point, if I can get the car running (after about 15minutes usually) it will drive pretty rough in 1st and 2nd and do better at higher MPH. Sometimes it'll even smooth out if I've been using it enough.
Anyways, I just replaced the MAF and now the car will usually start but drives incredibly rough and idles rough too.
I put in a new TPS and it idles a little better, but still sometimes will die on its own. When idling, if I give it gas, it bogs out and dies! Will do this a few times until it finally can rev and then its good to drive. If it I keep it warm, I can start it easily in this state and its ready to drive (although pretty jerky and rough at some points).
I don't know where to go next! Also got a compression test done and all cylinders are in spec.
A friend told me to replace my 02 sensor and check my cold start injector. A mechanic told me my EGR could be clogged. Also concerned about my fuel filter or possibly CAT converter. Just want to be strategic in what I chase next.
Thank you guys

started it this morning and starts completely fine, will idle and sounds good but as soon as i give it gas it dies!

any help please! now im thinking its distributor issue & faulty coils + 02 sensor and/or cold start injector.

Is the Check Engine light on? If so, what code does it show?

Is the tube from the MAF to the TPS in good shape? No leaks> They usually show up in the flexible pieces on the ends, but not always.
Is the Aux Air Control valve functioning properly? You should have outside air available on the large tube going up into the Throttle Body, and no air, ie: the tube seems blocked, when it's hot.
Have you checked the function of the Cold Start Injector? It should spray during a start, even warm, I believe. You can pull it out of the TB, leaving the fuel line connected, place it in a container of some sort, and have a friend/assistant crank the truck briefly. You'll be able to see the spray pattern easily.
Check the o-ring on the idle adjust screw. It's UNDER the large cover screw-cap on the left side of the TB as you face it. Almost directly above where the air tube from the Aux Air Valve enters at the bottom. Remove the cap, and it's the smaller screw inside. Screw it down until it touches bottom, counting the turns and partial turn as you do. Then unscrew it all the way and check the o-ring. Obviously, it should be soft and pliable. If it's hard, chances are it's got cracks in it, and/or chunks missing They've fallen into the air passages below the screw. Check and clean them carefully. There are small o-rings that fit just fine readily available many places. Always put a thin layer of Vaseline or silicone dielectric grease on the o-ring. It will preserve the o-ring a long time.
Try pulling the Check Engine codes out of the ECU to see what you have. Make sure to clear them by pulling the ECU fuse, or battery negative lead, for a minute or two, Then start and run the truck a few minutes, and see what codes it throws. I'm betting on the code for the O2 sensor.
Remove the EGR valve, and see if air goes through the tube that feeds the TB. It can clog up pretty easily, and some carb cleaner sprayed through it will clean it out pretty quick. The FSM has the complete EGR Valve check out procedure.
Check the vacuum lines against the sticker on the underside of the hood, top left corner when the hood is up. Verify all the vacuum lines are routed correctly and have no cracks or breaks in them anywhere, and seal well on their ends.

I hope something in all my rambling is some small help...
Pat☺

Thank you 2toyguy- appreciate it so much.

no check engine light & no code.
I think the MAF to TPS tube is all good-- ill check over it again.
I'll check the Aux Air Control Valve, vacuums, o-ring, and EGR valve.
I took out the Cold Start Injector yesterday and the thing was real gunked up- gonna clean it and see how that helps, but I think thats not the cause of the issues.

Thank you so much !

New plugs? Check the spark plug wires are in the 1,3,4,2 firing sequence. I installed new plugs and unknowingly switched the 3 & 4 wires. it started rough, idled rough, and had no power above 65 MPH. thought I had a blown head gasket. Checked the plugs and saw the switch. Once back correct it ran like a scolded cat.