Duffdog

So, my HG started leaking oil out the front near the water pump housing. I went to the dealer and got a new HG and started taking everything off the engine. On this particular 4runner, the coolant pipe that comes up under the temp sensor on the intake manifold looks totally rusted. I tried prying the thing off with a prybar, then removing the temp sensor and banging on the pipe from the inside with a drift. No luck. I was smacking that thing pretty hard and don't really want to break the intake manifold.

Any other ideas how I can get it off? should I just cut the sucker with a sawzall?

My99

Is this the pipe that has the 2 bolts in it and under which the thermostat rests? If so, after the 2 bolts are out, there shouldn't be anything additional holding it on there. Penetrating fluid and a rubber mallett (or hammer?) should rattle it loose.

Duffdog

yep, thats the pipe. Both bolts are out on the intake side and on the rear of the head, all 4 bolts are out.

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

so leave it on there until you pull the lower intake off with the pipe connected and take care while the piece is separated. Should be able to pull the whole thing off with it connected.

My99

Foggy memory here, but bolts on the back of the head should have nothing to do with this pipe... One end of the pipe I speak of hooks to the upper radiator hose, and the other end, with the 2 bolts hooks on at the top of the thermostat housing.

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

the bolts to the back of the head secure the pipe to the head they will need to be removed at some point depending how he does it. One pipe is for the pair system from the intake to the exhaust and the other is for the coolant pipe. both of which if i'm not mistaken are bolted to the head. Or am i thinking of another pipe all together?

My99

You are correct, I think. My comment was more directed at duffdog, to make sure he and I were talking about the same pipe.

Duffdog

there are actually 2 pipes on the rear of the head. On the coolant pipe I am working on, I unbolted the rear bolts thinking that I could get the pipe around the head, but the fuel filter is in the way if I try to take the pipe out still attached to the head.

I guess I will have to take the filter off as well?

anyone know how much a new pipe is? gaskets for it?

sebastianholmes

thats either the heater pipe or something to do with emmisions, EGR i think? rruns from one side, around the back, and to the other side of the mtor right? not sure how much the pipe would be and you could just use some blue RTV silicone instead of a gasket. and yea the fuel filter will need to be unbolted from the block, its 2 or 3 bolts, no biggie

Edit: change the fuel filter while youre in there, so much easier with things out of the way

Duffdog

so, the head is at the machine shop getting decked. It was .005 warped. Funny thing about the oil leakage, it only leaked because the PO did the water pump incorrectly and broke the headgasket, so he decided to use RTV instead of a HG in the front of the head where it mates to the water pump.

Looks like my truck will be running fine in no time!

Clifford91

I 2nd what sebastian said. Do the fuel filter while you're there.

Duffdog

What you are saying is partially true. The PO also changed the timing chain (I know this because it is a non stock version installed). So, he had to remove the timing cover, which interfaces with the bottom of the HG. I looked closely at the gasket and it appears that he cut it with a knife and then used rtv to "seal" the head to the timing cover. The machine shop noted that there was rtv on the head where there should not be.

BTW-- I got the pipe off by smacking it with a hammer after the intake manifold was off the engine.

xxxtreme22r

That sounds like your typical mistake when changing the timing chain with the head still installed. Too many people are not careful when re installing the timing cover when the head is stil on and pinch the heck out of that part of the head gasket.

If you leave it that way, be prepared for a huge oil leak and maybe even a vacuum leak in the future. It is nearly impossible to seal properly.

Don't ask me how I know this though as I plead the 5th. But I know this same issue has come up quite a bit on here.

Clifford91

If you're gonna do the timing chain I would get the Beck/Arnley HD (Heavy Duty) chain kit. It comes with a metal backed chain guide. The kit is supposedly designed to be used with propane engines that put out a little more torque. I assume chain is just as strong or stronger then factory, not that that's a huge issue at 120ish HP .

Factory kit is good, just doesn't have metal backed chain guide.

I picked up Beck/Arnley kit for just under $100 on Amazon.

Duffdog

I left the timing chain alone when I did the HG, but.... I thought that backflushing the heatercore would be a good idea since my heater didn't work well. When I put the hose nozzle into the core, a bunch of crap came out of the intake hose and the heater started working well.

But then....

Today as I was driving I started seeing water on the inside of my windshield and a drip of new coolant on the passenger side of the truck. I think my overzealous heater core cleaning blew the bottom right off the core. Now I have to get a new one of those as well... yay.

Anyone notice a difference between a factory heater core and an aftermarket type?