Had TPS replaced, now code 7, runs bad
 

Hey all, I had my truck at a local shop for the last week while I was on vacation and they diagnosed that it had a code 11 and fixed that with a new TPS. The truck is a 1987 4Runner with the 22RE. However, today when I went to pick it up, the Code 11 is gone, and it has a code 7. I looked up the code on off-road.com and got this:

THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL--OPEN OR SHORT IN TPS SIGNAL

--TPS SENSOR

--TPS SIGNAL/CIRCUIT

The shop still has my truck, but this is very frustrating. I took the truck for a spin and it idled erratically at stop and lunged in third gear doing about 30 MPH. The brake light and battery light momentarily flashed as well. I don't know if this is related or a different problem. I replaced the alternator with a used unit from a junkyard about 3 weeks ago. Does anybody have any ideas?

Problem solved! The plug going to the TPS was cracked and the little bit of freedom it had to move around caused the engine to run bad. Solution: I went to a junk yard and pulled a donor plug off of another truck.

shortest thread in YT history!

Update: I took a long road trip and the code 7 came back. Took it back to the shop and the mechanic thinks that the throttle body might be warn on the inside were the TPS is inserted. He re-adjusted the TPS with a feeler gauge and fixed the problem for now. Is is it possible that with 180,000 miles (22re) that the TB is warn out? can the area where the TPS is inserted even wear? Thanks

Any ideas?

Read through this link:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

Will give you a really good idea on what the TPS does, and what needs to be adjusted. I know it helped me troubleshoot the adjustment of my TPS and in turn solved some problems I was having.

I actually read all of that and so did the mechanic that I brought the truck to. He went buy the instructions from http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml, and installed a new TPS and adjusted it according to the instructions. The problem is, is that after he adjusts the TPS and the light goes off, I go and drive my truck for awhile and somehow the TPS goes out of adjusted again. So far, the mechanic has had to adjust it 3 diff times and now this is the last straw. The mechanic thinks that the throttle body might be warn out inside and causing it to go out of adjustment after it is initially set. Has anyone had any problems with there Throttle body or there TPS continually going out of adjustment?

Not absolutely sure if your's is the same, but on mine the TPS has a slot that the throttle body tang fits in. It is possible to miss it and the tang be on either side of the slot, that would cause you the symptom you are seeing.

Also did TPS get replaced with Toyota part or aftermarket? I've heard of this with aftermarket switches being used.

My TPS was replaced with aftermarket. I was wondering about that. What is a good brand to use when using aftermarket, or should I stick with OEM parts?

When it comes to sensors, especially stick with Toy OEM. Check to see if tangs are in correct place also.

Thanks for the insight.

Keep us updated.

Mountain test in Colorado
 

I was not able to take my 4Runner back to the mechanic who installed the TPS for me before I went to the mountains this past weekend. I live in Denver and go skiing quite a bit. There is a very steep incline from Silverplume to Georgetown on I-70 East. My 4Runner was barely pushing 35 mph in third gear. It seemed like the throttle was wide open, but the TPS was not registering full throttle and delivered inadequate fuel to the injectors. I am going to take my 4Runner back to the mechanic tomorow and hopefully he can figure out what is wrong with the TPS.

Maybe time for a second opinion....

NO luck at all with solving the problem, I am thinking if I want it fixed, I might have to replace the whole TB.

I could very well be the aftermarket TPS or the TPS is not in it's proper tang. If the TPS is in the wrong tang, it could very well keep it from getting enough fuel although I've never tested that. You can also unplug it and run it for awhile to see if there is any improvement. You will notice some differences with it unplugged.

Try that and post us an update from that.

Alright, Thanks.

I just arrived back home (Michigan) for the summer from Colorado. On the way back i averaged 13 miles per gallon. I used to get 21-23. I couldn't figure out what went wrong until I checked the Codes. I have a code for the o2 sensor and the water temperature sensor. On top of all this, I bought a used OEM TPS and tried that out. I had noticeably more power, however, I cant figure out how to adjust it. I looked at the instructions on 4x4.com and the instructions in the 93 repair manual that is posted on this forum. They both are different when it comes to the size feeler gauges to use. When I try and use my ohm meter to set the position of the TPS I can only get it to read between 1 and 0 with it set at 20k. I tried both instructions and can't get it to work. I am using a cheep o multi meter from Harbor Freight. Any advice/help?:help:

digital muti meter or a needle on a guage one?

the setting is VERY FINICKY.. a slight "tap" before ya tighen it an its all out of wack..

BTW - do the allen head bolt mod and use ball end hex wrenches... you'll be much happier - trust me.

Digital mutimeter is high impedence and works much better.
See if you cna borrow a nice Fluke from someone :)

The 22RE EFI swiched in 87/88.
The 93 uses a throttlebody that is pointed "straight".
The older EFI use a throttlebody that is pointed "down".
You probalby have the older one.

I have an 89 4Runner which has the later 22RE EFI so my FSM wont help you.

I actually have the throttle body off the truck right now so that I could clean it and adjust if easier. I am using a cheap, 5.00 digital meter from Harbor Freight. It reads fine, I just don't know how to get it to read less than 2.3k Ohms. Does 2.3k mean 23,000 ohms? I think that I have the right setting on my multi meter. I have the setting on 20kOhms. I believe that i have the right terminals selected on the TPS. The bottom two I think are the IDL and E2 When I put my multimeter on those and use a .85mm feeler gauge, the readings go from 0 to 1. Nothing shows up less than 2.3kohms. Am I doing something wrong? Or do you think that the TPS is bad itself?