nuknuk

1995 4runner 3.0. So long story short, I have been trying to get my truck to idle. Thought EGR went bad so deleted it today< the correct way>, also timing belt has been done. So after doing the EGR delete, I start the truck and notice gas coming out the exhaust pipe along with thick white smoke. Basically here is where I am with this thing, Truck will not idle, cold start valve does not work, have gas coming out of exhaust pipe, have gas in intake, have gas in oil, timing belt has been done and lined up correct, No codes or engine light, hose that connects to fuel pressure regulator inlet side is swollen due to high fuel pressure.

nuknuk

also I have not been able to set timing with timing light due to cant get it to idle.

Charchee

Got any fuel coming from the regulator back to the tank? Bad regulator? Test fuel pressure in the rails. If too high, replace the regulator and hope you haven't blown out your injector o-rings.

nuknuk

When the engine is off and I am working on the truck I can hear fuel drain back into the tank sometimes.

Charchee

Man now I'm scratching my head. I'd say that your timing was off worse than I have ever seen, with the gas in the intake, exhaust and oil but with it off that bad it wouldn't run at all. The swollen line to the regulator also throws a kink into it. If you had an injector tip break completely off, I guess it could dump enough fuel onto the top of the piston that it could foul the plug and choke down some fuel around the rings into the crankcase during the compression stroke and then push it out on the exhaust stroke but that wouldn't explain all of the fuel in the intake. That regulator has me a little puzzled. I would test your fuel pressure at the rail if you have a way to do that. The fuel pressure test kit I got from Advance actually had the banjo adapter that you will need for this test. If you can't put your hands on a tester, you could run a line from the return side into a bucket and see what kind of flow you are getting. Hopefully somebody out there has checked theirs this way and can tell you what the stream of fuel should look like. I have never done it this way on one of these engines so I won't be much help with that. I guess you could also tee in a basic pressure tester in the supply line and get a less accurate reading that way. You would need to do this downstream from the fuel filter. I would hold off on running the engine for now until you test the fuel pressure and, if it were me, do a compression test.

Wait a minute. Back up. You said the line to the regulator was swollen up. There isn't a line going "to" the regulator. It is threaded directly into the driver's side fuel rail. You have a small vacuum line attached to it and a return line coming from it. Double check what you are looking at regarding the regulator. If we can get that out of the picture, things will make more sense.

nuknuk

Yes the fuel pressure regulator, top of engine towards the front on drivers side. A hard line for fuel runs across the top of the timing cover and then a flexible fuel hose connects the hard line to the fuel pressure regulator. That line would get swollen with pressure from fuel. I would have to release it by loosing the hose clamp.

scope103

The line you're talking about (here's a picture of the FPR https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post52330847) is the fuel RETURN. That should have next-to-no pressure in it, as it just runs back to the fuel tank. If it is swelling, or if loosening the hose clamp allows fuel out under any pressure at all (with engine off), then that line is blocked somewhere.

Which would over come the fuel pressure regulator, and cause the fuel pressure in the rail to rise to the full pump pressure. Which means your engine would run very rich, and you'd have fuel everywhere.

I don't recommend putting your mouth on anything with fuel, but if you get a clean piece of 1/4" tube and hook it to the "hard line" near the FPR, you should be able to blow through it.

Or you could be really exact, and put a fuel pressure gauge on it.

Charchee

That's your return line. Supply line is on passenger side and attaches to the rear of fuel rail. Get you about 5' of fuel line that size and run it off the regulator into a bucket. It should trickle out of there. It shouldn't be spraying out of there but there should some flow that will be decreased as you speed up the engine.

nuknuk

ok, thanks guys for clearing that up. Don't know why I was thinking it was supply. So yes the return line. Also I found this pic and wanted to see if maybe I have some hoses mixed up, my return line comes out at #2 and a hose from #2 runs to a valve(?) that is connected at the bottom of the power steering pump, and a hose from that valve runs back up and connects to #13. Does this seem correct? I'm not sure what the valve/thing is at the power steering pump.

Charchee

I know one of the lines goes to #13. The little valve opens up when there is a big load on the PS pump like a turn to the limit in order to keep the engine from stalling by raising the idle speed. I have never noticed any difference since I pulled my lines off of it and capped them at the pump and the intake. I can't remember where the other one goes but I would want to say that it would almost have to be tee'd in to one of the vacuum switching valves some way or another if it was going to send a signal to idle up. Mine are capped and have never induced a stall while turning. I also worried what might happen if PS pump pressure got high enough to rupture that valve. It would fill your intake and whatever else it was connected to with PS fluid before you could even shut it down.

Ok, I went out and looked mine over against your picture. Here is what I can tell you without looking over my notes. Keep in mind that mine will be different because I have deleted all non essential vacuum systems.
1. Open hole on mine. I think this came from the resonator box on front D-side.
2. Fuel return
3. To brake booster
4. To forward most valve on the fender. The one with the adjustment screw through the spring. I actually knew what all of these did at one point.
5. Capped on mine.
6. Same as #4
7. Capped
8. Capped (The third line on this nipple goes to the switching valve with the red connector.
9. Goes back under the plenum to I can't remember where.
10, 11 and 12. These are bent a little different on mine so I can't be sure on these. What I think is 10 on mine goes to the valve with the red connector. The other two are capped.

Hope that helps. Keep in mind, what I capped, you can too if you want to do some deletin.

nuknuk

This valve seems to work on vacuum. I think there is no way fuel is supposed to run to this valve at all. I just don't know where the lines need to go. Lol

boobiebuzzard

Another yota member had this problem not too long ago. It turned out to be mixed up vac lines I remember reading the post but don't remember which lines. So that would be a great place to start.

Charchee

Why don't you cap off the lines that I have capped and see if it will run. There are several more that you can cap but your AC won't act right. I had several more of them capped but put my AC back together and had to put them back on. What I have deleted currently are the egr and pair valve.

" This valve seems to work on vacuum. I think there is no way fuel is supposed to run to this valve at all. I just don't know where the lines need to go. Lol " QUOTE

No, fuel will not get in there. I would leave those lines off while you are working through this. Not having them hooked up will not cause you any problem so long as you cap any lines off any lines you take off at the intake. You don't want unmetered air going in there.

Look back over your post with the picture of the intake tubes. You said fuel return comes out at #2 and then you said a line goes from #2 to the PS pump valve. Was that a typo? I just want to make sure you aren't actually sending fuel down through this valve and back into the intake. Let me know on this one. The worst issue you could cause yourself with these lines would be to route the fuel return somewhere other than the tank.

nuknuk

Yes, I had fuel going to that valve and back to the intake. I just found my mistake tonight, going over the lines again. So I found the problem and know now which hose I had swapped. I had #2 and #5 swapped. So what was happening is I fuel being returned to the PS valve and coming back into the intake at #13. Tonight I already pulled of the upper intake and dumped the fuel that was sitting in it, and tomorrow I will change the oil and try this again. Thanks for all the help. ONE DAY I will get this 4runner back running right. haha

cbr600rx7

I made that mistake. I hooked the return line to the vacuum port by mistake. The motor ran but rough and was blowing fuel out the tail pipe.

scope103

Just so you know:
1. PAIR valve
2. Fuel Return
3. Power Brake Booster
4,6. AC Idle-up VSV
5,13 Power Steering Idle-up
7,8 PAIR valve VSV, and Fuel Pressure-up VSV (third, capped nipple is for ADD and Cruise)
9 PCV Valve
10 to Fuel Pressure-up VSV (from FPR)
11, 12 EGR VSV

nuknuk

OK, so I got the 4runner running FINALLY!!! But now this thing smokes bad. I guessing with the gas in the oil it ruined my piston rings, and thoughts? Was hoping it was just gas left over in the exhaust system put doesnt seem to want to quit.

osv

what color is the smoke? black, blue, or white?

nuknuk

well nevermind, it just started knocking and very low oil pressure. She is done and so am I. Going to just sell it. All this over a damn knock sensor, ˟˟˟˟ happens.