fuel filter help
 

89 pick-up 4x4 22re 5 spd....I have the Haynes repair manual, & it has no step by step instructions, or pics. looks like its a pain in da ass to get to, can someone Help me ?

Cut off the fuel, and go through the passenger side wheel well. Move the starter out of the way, and be ready to start cussing. Careful not to strip those banjo bolts on both ends.

how do I cut off the fuel ?

pinch off the flex/rubber line with something. clamp, vise grips, those filters are a pain.

There's a few threads on relocating the filter for easier access, might look into that before you start if you're interested.

[IMG]img_0302[/IMG]Thanks for the replies, Jake, & Bruzer, looks like i'll have to wait till it warms up some for this project, in da teens here & shes tooooo cold ta work on

Once you do it once or twice youll get a better system on how to do it....First open the gas cap to relieve any pressure, then before you loosen the bolts that hold the filter bracket to the block loosen the fuel line banjo bolts (if you dont then you will have to hold the filter stationary somehow while you try and loosen the fuel banjo bolts and theres no room as it is), I dont like crimping the fuel lines, Ive seen old line get hurt when it gets crimped and its more prone to crack or leak, and the inside of the line can kinda fall apart if that makes sense, so I just put a ran under each banjo bolt to soak up the bit of fuel that comes out....it does help if you remove the front p/s wheel or at least jack up the body so the front suspension sags so theres more gap between the tire and wheel well, plus turn the wheel all the way to the direction that helps you get in there the best....or just remove the wheel but I know how it sucks to work in the cold too and want to avoid any unnecessary steps. Last two times I put some Marvem Mystery oil or chevron techron, or some kind of fuel injector cleaner inside the filter before i installed it....Then I jumped a wire from the B+ terminal in the diagnostic connector to the fuel pump terminal and that turns on the fuel pump to pressurize the system so you can check for leaks without the engine having to be on and reduces cranking time since normally the engine has to crank for the fuel pump to kick on since its triggered from inside the maf meter which is only open via vacuum which is while the engine is being cranked....Having fine tooth ratchets and I believe wobble sockets helped me alot doing mine....Might help to very slightly electrical tape the fuel filter brackets into the socket so its easier to get the bolts started and the bolt cant fall out of the socket once you knock it on something trying to get in there, but if you only tape it a minor amount then the socket will come off the bolt head easily when you need the socket to come off once the bolt is already tight

My94yota....Thanks for da detailed info, everything you say makes a lot o sense, I wont be tackling this job till it warms up a bit (-20) with da wind chill today, BRRRR !! ..just 1 more question, can I change da filter without having to remove da starter, or is that a must ??

I helped my dad do his filter this last summer and we didn't have to take the starter off, but u might want to read up on relocating the fuel filter. It's a pain to get off and not so easy going back on. I don't think there's any reason it has to go back to the same location. Relocating it will make It easier next time u work on it.

Nope you dont have to remove the starter, I didnt remove anything including the wheel but doing the other things I said has helped me, also depends on the how big or long your arms are too I guess but putting filter back in is the hardest I would say, because of having to get the bolts started but the tape trick should help anyway, Ive done mine about 3 times