Erich Stein

95 4runner 4x4. I want to inspect inside of the wheel hub, I believe the bearing is bad - or could use to be re-torqued - I do not know what's in there. Got the wheel off, then this dust-cap in the center. Then I remove the 6 screws with some lock washers around the flange. I am beating with a hammer, tapping with the screwdriver - no signs of anything moving. I read FSM and discover ANOTHER set of washers in back of those that need to come out. All of mine appear merged onto the studs. Does anyone have any helpful hints on how I can go about removing this without breaking anything please?

millball

Unlikely as it might sound, each stud should be struck on it's end, repeatedly if necessary, with a brass or aluminum drift and medium sized hammer.

This will cause the cone Washers to loosen and back out to where they might be pulled off with pliers.

RESIST the urge to strike the side of the drive flange or hub body.

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

put the nuts back on the studs to protect the ends while striking them. you need to hit them pretty hard repeatedly. i place a ball peen hammer flush on the stud & nut, and strike the ball peen with a drilling hammer.

Erich Stein

I went out there painted every so often with military penetrating fluid from WWII. Gave a round of taps with a light hammer. Nothing obvious happened. Tried smacking with dead blow sand-hammer just for curiosity, also yielding no results. I have zero of 6 out (lol).

Andy A

Another option If i remember correctly, there are two threaded holes on that plate which you could try using some bolts in to try and get it seperated. You dont want to go crazy, just enough to move it. Will more than likely need new gaskets.

If rtv was used as a gasket prior it can squeeze out onto the studs and cone washers and make the cone washers a bear to remove.

Erich Stein

Oh whoa wait a minute. I am just opening this to take a peek inside see how many parts I need to buy. If I am going to break seals, gaskets or something else - I probably need to order up before I go any further. It's a rusty poop mess in there.

ev13wt

Seals are a couple of bucks.


The most correct steps to remove cone washers:

Remove Nut, washer and cone washer, the FSM said. Hahahahaha.
They also wrote: "remove engine" once, and it looked like much less time than it really took.

1. Loosen nut until it only covering the last threads.
2. WD-40 the little bitches, drink a beer, tap from all directions with "some force".
3. Look that the cone washer moves juuust a tiny bit.
4. Then grab it sideways with a pipe wrench and twist, twist, twist!
5. Drink more beer.
6. Give the cone washers derogatory names.
7. Drink beer.
8. Stand in front of hub, stare at it for 5 minutes.
9. Drink more beer.
10. Check Yotatech.
11. Try again.
12. Start convincing yourself that an angle grinder or a torch is really what you need.
13. Drink beer.
14. Get the WD40 out.
15. Get the bigger hammer
16. Buy a couple new studs

Erich Stein

I found the two threaded holes on the flange and stuck 2 bolts in. I gradually tightened them down, alternating each one. Some solid filth started pushing out the flange near where the bolt I was tightening started to come out. I probably spray some more oil, pace around the house watch tv and see if it magically falls off. If not I have to put this back together and get on with the rest of my weekend probably.

Kolton5543

if you dont remove the cone washers, the flange will never come off. They are tapered and have a split in them. When they are troqued down they wedged themselves into the hole and compress. Theyre basically wedged and spring loaded to keep them in there. Really, your just not hitting it hard enough. Like said before, put the nut on till its just flush with the stud. Using a brass, bronze, or copper drift, and a 2 pound sledge, hit the end of the stud. Give it a real good swing and make sure you hit it straight. Once you get the technique down you'll be all good. I've done it so many times now I can have the flange off in about 2 minutes.

Erich Stein

I found this video. $20 trip to horrible freight to get an air hammer won't kill me as much as my frustration level does with these jammed, sized and rusted washers designed by the devil.

ev13wt

You guys hit them dead on? I usually slam them "sideways"? I'll try the dead on technique next time.

Melrose 4r

That video is the best! Gotta remember that for next time. Already have the tool.