68jimmy

I've had the 4Runner for about 8mos now and I just noticed a couple of issues on my front hubs that I'd like to get an opinion on. One of the studs for the front hub assembly is trashed and I'd like to know if the stud is pressed or threaded into the hub? In addition, are the cone washers supposed to be even with the face of the outer hub assembly? The cone washers seem to be buggered up, should I order new ones along with the proper nuts and washers? Seems like one of the previous owners took a hammer to the hub in order to remove the cone washers...

Anyway take a look at the pics and give me your thoughts.

Thanks in Advance.
donovan

scope103

They're studs (screwed in). 90116-08325 about a buck online, probably a few cents more at a brick-and-mortar dealer.

The cones should be flush.

But what it looks like to me from your picture is that the aluminum housing of the manual hubs has been hammered in; the cones 42323-60010 may be fine (replacing the cones, then, wouldn't help). I believe the hole in the housing is tapered to match the cones; I'm not sure how I would go about repairing that.

68jimmy

Thanks, I agree it appears that in the past someone may have hammered on the housing trying to remove the cone washers. This is probably why those are sticking out a bit... Any ideas on how to remove the buggered stud?

donovan

millball

The cones should NOT be flush. They should stand proud of the hub flange about 1/16 inch.

Looks like some of your cones may have pecker tracks from someone trying to snatch them out, but it looks like they still fit about right.

If the cones are flush with the hub flange, abuse of the cones, or the hubs has ocurred.

The purpose of the cones is to centralise the locking hub, concentric with the spindle and hub and to spread the turning force of the drive axle to the largest area.

Such cones are commonly found on the drive axle flanges of semi trucks and the like, where full floating axles are common.

The Aisin hub housings are not aluminum, they are bright plated steel.

The studs should be double nutted in order to facilitate removal or installation.

If a stud is damaged, a pair of vice-grips may serve to remove it.

The correct way to loosen the cones for removal is to strike the stud on its end with a soft brass or aluminum drift.

Backing off the nut until it is flush with the end of the stud will ensure that the stud threads are not buggered.

A couple good raps and the cone will back out to where a pair of pliers can get it.

The hub flange should never be smacked from the side.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I loosen the nuts on the cone washer. I take another nut and thread it flush with the stud. You will have 2 nuts on one stud. Soak them down with some PB Blaster and gentle taps on the flush nut will eventually break the cone washer loose. There should be no damage if done correctly and patiently. Usually once one cone washer breaks loose the other generally follow pretty easily. I have had luck with even the worse of them.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

The first time one takes them out here can be quite interesting .meaning the first time since the truck was built .

Soak for a few days with your favorite penetrating agent of choice.

The best way I found for me is to use the Air Hammer it vibrates them right off with a custom made tool.

Since the Hubs most often get tossed in the scrap

Replaced with the new Warn Hubs

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

as noted above, the cone washers should not sit flush. nor would i replace the aisins with warns, as the aisins are excellent. use a flush nut on the locking hub studs to gently tap them, eventually the cone washer will begin to back out of its seat in the hub.

use new gaskets, and torque to spec when reinstalling.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

You would reinstall worn 30 year old hubs instead of New ??

Just curious your reasons behind this .

The same logic would state you would take a 30 year old engine over brand new

osv

people will buy aisin hubs, even if they are ifs hubs, i think that they can be used on sfa trucks... even sami hubs are usable? http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/suzuk...ts-toyota.html

there really isn't a lot to wear out on locking hub? if it's a sfa hub, you can get replacement chromoly guts for it at trail gear or whatever, not sure how that applies to ifs hubs.

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

not only would i, i did. i converted my ifs auto hubs to aisin ifs manual hubs. they are more robust than the warn hubs, with a better track record in toyota applications. fwiw, i wouldn't change out the warn premium hubs on my cj, either.

my 30 year old engine seems to work, and i own it. can you supply me with a free brand new 22re?

68jimmy

Thanks for all the replies and great information... As I looked closer at the hub I posted it appears that I may be missing another cone washer besides the one on the damaged stud. Guess I'll head to the yard this next weekend and see if I can find some vehicles to grab some parts from and who knows, maybe I'll find an undamaged aisin hub... Wish me luck.

Thanks.

68jimmy

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I can give you all the parts to build one most likely will never do it myself .

To many other projects come before putting the 22re engine together

68jimmy

Thanks Wyoming9, we'll be in touch...

d.