Freshening up a 3.0 with 245,000mi
09-28-2011, 06:18 AM
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Freshening up a 3.0 with 245,000mi
Hello,
This is my first post here.
The truck:
1993 X-Cab 4x4 SR5 3.0 5-speed with 245,000 on the odometer.
31X10.5 on factory alloy wheels. (Les Schwab Wild Country AT)
Truetrac in the rear.
K/N Air filter replacement unit instead of the factory airbox.
Warn Manual hubs in front, Add a leafs to raise the rear a bit.
Misc mods of one sort or another.
It has not been a daily driver for the last few years but it is still in very good condition. It is starting to be driven more again. I have started to do a little bit of work on it in the last month.
I put a distributor on it. The bushings were worn out on the original one.
I just did the timing belt/water pump/thermostat/two idlers last week. It was WAY overdue for the belt.
It is on the original clutch but it will need one soon.
It uses a quart of oil between changes and the oil pressure is not what it used to be but at 245,000 it is to be expected.
It needs the exhaust replaced or it will soon. It is still the original.
I will make separate threads for these things but I thought I should join the forum anyway.
Nice to be here,
Kevin
This is my first post here.
The truck:
1993 X-Cab 4x4 SR5 3.0 5-speed with 245,000 on the odometer.
31X10.5 on factory alloy wheels. (Les Schwab Wild Country AT)
Truetrac in the rear.
K/N Air filter replacement unit instead of the factory airbox.
Warn Manual hubs in front, Add a leafs to raise the rear a bit.
Misc mods of one sort or another.
It has not been a daily driver for the last few years but it is still in very good condition. It is starting to be driven more again. I have started to do a little bit of work on it in the last month.
I put a distributor on it. The bushings were worn out on the original one.
I just did the timing belt/water pump/thermostat/two idlers last week. It was WAY overdue for the belt.
It is on the original clutch but it will need one soon.
It uses a quart of oil between changes and the oil pressure is not what it used to be but at 245,000 it is to be expected.
It needs the exhaust replaced or it will soon. It is still the original.
I will make separate threads for these things but I thought I should join the forum anyway.
Nice to be here,
Kevin
Last edited by westcoastkevin; 09-28-2011 at 07:31 AM.
09-28-2011, 06:46 AM
#2
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Location: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
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WELCOME!
Check your fuel pressure at the rail. My fuel pump was tired & resulted in a lean run condition causing more heat which = blown head gasket @ 218,000 miles.
I replaced my original exhaust @ 218k with a OEM cat-back from the local dealer for only $129.00. Hollowed out CAT, sounds/runs good.
Personally, I would KEEP the OEM airbox/filter. K&N lets TONS of crap in.
Check your fuel pressure at the rail. My fuel pump was tired & resulted in a lean run condition causing more heat which = blown head gasket @ 218,000 miles.
I replaced my original exhaust @ 218k with a OEM cat-back from the local dealer for only $129.00. Hollowed out CAT, sounds/runs good.
Personally, I would KEEP the OEM airbox/filter. K&N lets TONS of crap in.
Last edited by TNRabbit; 09-28-2011 at 06:48 AM.
09-28-2011, 07:26 AM
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TNRabbit,
Thanks for the reply.
Thanks for the tip on the fuel pressure. I will check that.
Do these numbers sound right to you?
Key ON, not running = 38-44 psi
Engine running ad IDLE = 33-37
STOP ENGINE = pressure should stay above 21 psi for 5 minutes.
I have the Factory books in a box here somewhere. I need to fish them out.
The factory airbox has been gone for 8-10 years now. It got lost in a move. The KN is a bit noisier too.
You do not have the part number for that exhaust, do you?
I see in your sig that you rebuilt your engine. How deep did you go? New pistons or just rings/valves? How much money did did you spend. I will probably keep this truck a long time more so I will need to do this myself at some point. I would be doing my own work. If you have a build thread, I would like to read it.
Thanks,
Kevin
Thanks for the reply.
Thanks for the tip on the fuel pressure. I will check that.
Do these numbers sound right to you?
Key ON, not running = 38-44 psi
Engine running ad IDLE = 33-37
STOP ENGINE = pressure should stay above 21 psi for 5 minutes.
I have the Factory books in a box here somewhere. I need to fish them out.
The factory airbox has been gone for 8-10 years now. It got lost in a move. The KN is a bit noisier too.
You do not have the part number for that exhaust, do you?
I see in your sig that you rebuilt your engine. How deep did you go? New pistons or just rings/valves? How much money did did you spend. I will probably keep this truck a long time more so I will need to do this myself at some point. I would be doing my own work. If you have a build thread, I would like to read it.
Thanks,
Kevin
Last edited by westcoastkevin; 09-28-2011 at 07:27 AM.
09-28-2011, 09:07 AM
#4
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
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TNRabbit,
Thanks for the reply.
Thanks for the tip on the fuel pressure. I will check that.
Do these numbers sound right to you?
Key ON, not running = 38-44 psi
Engine running at IDLE = 33-37
STOP ENGINE = pressure should stay above 21 psi for 5 minutes.
38-44 with fuel pump on engine NOT running
At idle with the vacuum hose ON the FPR, should be 33-37 psi
At idle with the vacuum hose OFF the FPR & PLUGGED, should be 38-44 psi
I have the Factory books in a box here somewhere. I need to fish them out.
The factory airbox has been gone for 8-10 years now. It got lost in a move. The KN is a bit noisier too.
You do not have the part number for that exhaust, do you?
No; just went to the dealer (I highly recommend Gary Smith @ Newnan Toyota in Georgia--immense discounts to forum members--search here for contact info) & asked for the entire CAT-back for my VIN.
I see in your sig that you rebuilt your engine. How deep did you go? New pistons or just rings/valves? How much money did did you spend. I will probably keep this truck a long time more so I will need to do this myself at some point. I would be doing my own work. If you have a build thread, I would like to read it.
Build thread is here:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ht=head+gasket
and here:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ht=head+gasket
....but putfile.com went belly-up & lost ALL my pics (grr!).
I tore it completely down to the bare block. Installed new clutch/pressure plate from MarlinCrawler, rebuild kit from engbldr, & replaced a ton of exterior parts from the dealer. All told, I spent about $3k, but that included many tools ($1900 spent on a 175 psi/36 cfm air compressor!). The rebuild kit was about $380 IIRC. The only thing I sent out was the heads for valve seating/seals (nothing shaved, just smoothed).
Thanks,
Kevin
Thanks for the reply.
Thanks for the tip on the fuel pressure. I will check that.
Do these numbers sound right to you?
Key ON, not running = 38-44 psi
Engine running at IDLE = 33-37
STOP ENGINE = pressure should stay above 21 psi for 5 minutes.
38-44 with fuel pump on engine NOT running
At idle with the vacuum hose ON the FPR, should be 33-37 psi
At idle with the vacuum hose OFF the FPR & PLUGGED, should be 38-44 psi
I have the Factory books in a box here somewhere. I need to fish them out.
The factory airbox has been gone for 8-10 years now. It got lost in a move. The KN is a bit noisier too.
You do not have the part number for that exhaust, do you?
No; just went to the dealer (I highly recommend Gary Smith @ Newnan Toyota in Georgia--immense discounts to forum members--search here for contact info) & asked for the entire CAT-back for my VIN.
I see in your sig that you rebuilt your engine. How deep did you go? New pistons or just rings/valves? How much money did did you spend. I will probably keep this truck a long time more so I will need to do this myself at some point. I would be doing my own work. If you have a build thread, I would like to read it.
Build thread is here:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ht=head+gasket
and here:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ht=head+gasket
....but putfile.com went belly-up & lost ALL my pics (grr!).
I tore it completely down to the bare block. Installed new clutch/pressure plate from MarlinCrawler, rebuild kit from engbldr, & replaced a ton of exterior parts from the dealer. All told, I spent about $3k, but that included many tools ($1900 spent on a 175 psi/36 cfm air compressor!). The rebuild kit was about $380 IIRC. The only thing I sent out was the heads for valve seating/seals (nothing shaved, just smoothed).
Thanks,
Kevin
................
Last edited by TNRabbit; 09-28-2011 at 09:10 AM.
09-30-2011, 02:45 AM
#5
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
subscribing cuz I liked working on my son's 3vze (yes, I did). he has a build thread n my SIG..it gets to be a bit meandering, but I think it might be helpful. we pulled his motor, ne oil pump, water pump, belt, idlers, head gaskets and put Doug Thorley headers on too. has been my daily ride for the last 2 months as my other 2 backup vehicle became not road-worthy.
good luck. TN RABBIT is a great source for info as SB5WALKER was too (i think I got that right).
looking forward to some pics too....as usual.
good luck. TN RABBIT is a great source for info as SB5WALKER was too (i think I got that right).
looking forward to some pics too....as usual.
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