Flat towing w/an automatic?
 

Put a tow bar on the '91 today, and realized just then that my 2nd Gen 4Runners don't have a neutral position!!

I did search, but only came up with "can I tow my manual..."

Thoughts? I'm just worried about lubrication of the transmission when the oil pump is not turning.

you could disconnect driveshafts but thats too much work if you're only going a short distance

Doesn't have a neutral position? What do you mean? My '92 a/t does, and I tow with it fairly often.

i thnk he is saying a MT and transfercase. The transfercase doesnt have a specified position that says N. He wants to tow the 4runner.

a couple of dolleys for the wheels is your best bet. or a trailer heh

You will have to disconnect your driveline, or you WILL do damage to your trans. That, or you could start it up the whole way to your destination lol.

The 86-95 trucks and 4runners with autos do not have a Neutral position for the T-case. Just putting the trans in neutral will not work.

OOOOOHHHHHHHH! I get it. Yep....have to disconnect the driveline. I've had to have the '92 towed more often than I care to admit. Of course, the towers used a roll on in lieu of dropping the shaft, but nevertheless....

K - so idle it or drop the shafts. Thanks guys!

yea thats what my friend told me to

I would just drop the rear shaft, if its not in 4x4 I dont think you would do any damage to the t-case or tranny, I could be wrong tho. I would NOT Idle it the whole way to your destination, unless it's fairly close.

With the ADD, the front shaft does not turn in 2H. So ya, just the rear shaft. Eventually I'll get a full trailer, but for now this'll do.

Side thought; would it be possible to put an electric pump in to circulate the fluid in the transmission while driving?

How far you towing it?

exactly:

this is from the pirate4x4 FAQ:
the guy they quoted pretty much knows his stuff:
Flat Towing a Toyota <-- Must disconnect rear driveline!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin Crawler
"On all auto chain driven and manual gear driven t/cases, if it is towed in two wheel drive, the output shaft will turn, but there will be no way for the oil at the bottom of the case to get to the top where the output shaft is. On the chain driven cases, the input shaft turns the planetary housing which drives the oil pump. Gear driven cases use the input gear and low range gears to throw oil on the inside of the housing that collects the oil via gutters and directs it to the rear of the case by gravity. Both style of cases, must have the input shaft spinning to lube the output shaft, speedo gears, and rear seal of the t/case. The rear driveshaft must be removed.
Marlin"

Remco A/T pump on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/REMCO...QQcmdZViewItem

Also try http://www.remcotowing.com/products.php

Just remove the rear driveshaft, its like 10 14mm bolts iirc and very easy to do with a couple wrenches. It took me a little under 15 mins to remove my rear driveshaft on my t100 and its 2 pcs and has a center carrier bearing to contend with too.

Here is a big hint: Take white out and mark where the driveshaft was inline, you install it backwards and enjoy the vibration otherwise.

Ummm - rear driveshaft is 8 bolts - 4 on each end.

Or you could do a full floater conversion with manual hubs on the rear axle.

I REALLY don't understand why people would flat tow though ... it's not like it gives you more options for getting home with trail damage as the steering, axles, suspension, etc pretty much have to be in driveable condition. All it does is cost you more gas ...

I had to flat tow a few weeks ago when my ECU fried. Wasn't worth calling a tow truck to pull me 5 miles home down back country roads.

You definitely do have to disconnect the rear driveshaft, though, and like tc said, it's a simple 8 bolts. We pulled mine off in about 5 minutes.

Obviously, chock the wheels before you pop the driveshaft off, and make sure the parking brake is on. I watched two guys pull a shaft in the woods on a slight grade without doing either. They were shocked the truck started to roll back on them :hillbill:.

You only really have to undo the rear of the driveshaft, so that's 4 bolts. Then strap it to the frame so it doesn't drag. The front can stay attached.

if you do drop the rear drive shaft mark it so it goes back the way it came out

I drive a larger truck tc, remember it may be similar but not the same. I took a stab at the number.

And I would completely remove it, nothing like the strap breaking off..