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And when you say rebuild the drive shaft you mean replace the u-joints? the price sounds fair since i paid the machine shop $40 to replace both front and rear u-joints on mine about 5 years ago, and i paid about $25 each at the parts store for the u-joints.
No, rebuild as in get a new shaft, spline, and yoke, weld the spine to the shaft, swap my u-joints and flanges, and be on my way.
Originally Posted by maco35
The seal part # is 90311-38047 and the write up i used is 4crawlers, and when putting the stake nut back on i just tightened it a 1/4 of a turn extra to prevent vibration when letting go of gas pedal. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...eal/index.html
Thank you!
I've contacted a buddy who works on frames--gonna see what he says.
Cool, that's a killer deal and hopefully that'll fix the problems you're having.
It did not unfortunately. The more I toy with it and think about it, its almost like the front axles are engaged to the diff. Like 4WD is on without the t-case transferring power from the engine to the front diff.
It did not unfortunately. The more I toy with it and think about it, its almost like the front axles are engaged to the diff. Like 4WD is on without the t-case transferring power from the engine to the front diff.
It's certainly easy enough to find out if that's the case. Raise the front end and turn the wheels.
I had a speed related vibration that drove me bonkers - kept thinking it was a bum U Joint; that I had mangled it beating the old u Joint out (my U-Joints are Spicer 1350, not Toyota - long story)
Anyway - it turned out to be..... a tire belt de-laminated and the tire was no longer "round" but egg shaped...
I can't see if your truck has manual hubs or not. I would disconnect front driveshaft and see if the vibration goes away. That will help you narrow it down.
I can't see if your truck has manual hubs or not. I would disconnect front driveshaft and see if the vibration goes away. That will help you narrow it down.
ADD. This weekend I'm gonna try a couple of things. First, put all four corners up in the driveway (clear of course) and get it to vibration speed. Gonna drop the front DS like you said, I doubt its been greased. Then, I'm gonna pull the hub section that connects the CV's to the hub.
How much wheel free play do you have? With the car off sit in the front and lightly turn it with a tape measure to see how far it goes each direction. Should be no more than 1" per FSM.
I had a vibration that just got fixed by adjusting the steering box. took slop out of the ride.
I know you say no free play in the ball joints, but it's pretty hard to wiggle it with your hands enough to know their condition. They are not too expensive if you get them as a kit.
How much wheel free play do you have? With the car off sit in the front and lightly turn it with a tape measure to see how far it goes each direction. Should be no more than 1" per FSM.
I had a vibration that just got fixed by adjusting the steering box. took slop out of the ride.
I know you say no free play in the ball joints, but it's pretty hard to wiggle it with your hands enough to know their condition. They are not too expensive if you get them as a kit.
I will take a look at that. frustrated coming off of a day of failure. Completely removed the diff to find it perfect as can be. Replaced the pinion seal. But no change.
I'm taking it to an axle shop today. Even the new (er) axles were pulled from a wrecked runner. If it was spun and slid theres a chance of a bent axle flange. Looking at it on rear jackstands at speed really makes me think thats the problem.
Argh. So that $100 driveshaft is way out of true. fml. Lesson learned. I think there is something else beyond that since I still shake without it, just not as bad. Frustrating though. I'll resume investigation with a new driveshaft.
08-08-2017, 08:45 AM
