Ey_Amigo

I finished rebuilding and re-installed my 22re engine. I have all the electrical back together. And I believe I properly reinstalled the vacuum lines that I need to keep for the egr delete.

The truck starts and will keep going if I give it gas, but it dies when i let off and wont idle.

I replaced and modified the following:
New gaskets
New OBX header
LCE EGR & Intake block off plates
New Fuel injectors
New IACV
New Timing chain, cover, oil pump and water pump
I kept everything that was suggested by LCE's egr/vacuum line delete video Charcoal Canister, power steering, fuel pressure regulator and VSV

The truck get spark and fuel and like mentioned will run but it wont idle. The only thing I am unsure of is the vacuum delete and if thats causing issues or maybe timing is off? Everything is plugged off that needs to be and I believe I have the distributor in properly (it definitely starts easier with the distributor in the slowest position). I know people are very opinionated about the egr removal, I dont really want to get into that.

Ey_Amigo

Double checked the cam timing and it was off by a tooth, it starts a whole lot easier, still idling very rough and cuts out after about 5 secs. Trying to dial the distributor but it doesnt seem to be doing the trick...

scope103

Are you sure you have fuel pressure? The fuel pump is powered by the COR. The COR is closed by the key in the start position, then once the engine is sucking air a switch in the VAF holds the COR closed. If that switch isn't working (VAF disconnected, no induction plumbing, broken wire, bad COR, ....) the engine will start and then run out of fuel in a few seconds.

Ey_Amigo

I checked the VAF with a multimeter, its fine and all the plugs/wires leading to it seem ok.

I sprayed started fluid in the intake and that did allow it to idle longer, so I think youre right that it is a fuel delivery issue, maybe the new injectors? I believe i plugged them in right.

scope103

Checking the VAF-COR circuit is the easiest diagnostic you'll ever do. Jumper FP to B+ on the diagnostic connector. This forces the fuel pump to run whenever there is key-on (bypassing the STArt key position, the VAF, AND the COR.) If that clears up the stalling, you know right where to look.

Ey_Amigo

Welp that worked! So its either the vaf (which i checked and the terminals read like they should based on this guide http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml) so its the COR or maybe the wires leading to either the vaf and/or cor. Excuse my ignorance you have been very helpful.

As a side note when it was idling with those terminals jumped it would bog really bad when i hit the accelerator, is this a related issue?

Its crazy my head gasket blew and the timing guides were screwed so I replaced all that ˟˟˟˟ it just seems crazy everything is breaking all at once I wonder if they were all symptoms of the same problem or if I just have bad luck. It's definitely been a humbling experience.

scope103

Do your diagnosis systematically. For instance, with key-on, use your finger to push the VAF flap (vane) open. You should be able to hear the COR click, and pump hum (you may have to have someone sit close to the COR, behind the glove box. I can hear my fuel pump standing at the diagnostic connector.) If you hear a click but no hum, suspect the contacts of the COR. If you hear no click or hum, suspect the coil of the COR, or the wiring VAF to COR.

You get the drill.