lordhowe

I have a 92 4runner 3.0 liter 5 speed 4WD. I'm pretty new to the 4x4 world so please don't yell too loud.

I have already done a spacer lift and fit a set of 33x12.50 mud terrains and how looking to lock the rear diffs up to provide better traction in mud. After doing a good amount of research I want to go with Lock Right.

Questions:
1. are these the correct locker that will fit in my 4runner? I think 250 is a great deal right?: 1620-LR http://www.my4by.com/powertrax-lockr...ne-p-2924.html

2. When doing the install, people are saying i should replace both Axel seals, anyone know the exact part number or a picture of what they look like?

3. from what i hear, all it's needed to put the 3rd member back with the housing is some RTV, is there a band that someone can recommend?

4. I will replace the breathers while i'm at it and from what i read there are a total of 3. Rear diff, transfer case, front diff is that correct? are all three the same: http://www.wabfab.org/products/diffe...eather-600.jpg

Thanks a bunch for all of the input!

MaK92-4RnR

I basically have the same truck. Im going with Aussie lockers... aussielockers.com they're on the cheap side... 230 for the front 270 for the rear? around there. breathers are easy to "replace" just run them to a higher part of the truck and call it good.

AxleIke

1. Yes.
2. http://www.marlincrawler.com/axle/re...rear-axle-seal
3. Ultra Copper or Permatex
4. Correct

lordhowe

thanks for the input!
the parts shown in the URL won't fit a 92 4runner, anyone have the part number?

AxleIke

Yes they do: My apologies, I didn't see that they used the foreign terminology.

From the site:

"Fits 1979-1995 Hilux."

4Runner is a Hilux Surf over seas, thus, these seals fit all 1984-1995 4runners.

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

sounds like you've done your homework. as long as the LockRite you get is a model 1620, it will fit your V6 differential carrier.

for your breathers, why do you want to replace them? is there something wrong with them? usually, if you're gonna replace them it's with one that has a longer stem so that it mates up to a piece of tubing easier for extending them out of the reach of water and mud. i was able to use the stock breather (minus the dust cap/spring) and slipped a piece of tube over it, then clamped that sucker down with a hose clamp. same for the front.

lordhowe

AxleIke, thanks! and BIG props on the build, my god i'm impressed!! i wish i could do a 10th of that!

Highonpottery: my rear diff breather was clogged which caused the gasket between the 3rd member and rear diff housing to leak. In the process of unclogging it, i lost the spring so now it's just the breather with the cap barely on I figure I replace all three of them and run some lines to a higher place. I remember reading about some Nissan part with a longer neck that works, anyone know the part number?

thanks again for everyone's input!

AxleIke

Thanks man!

fireman1559

for the rear diff breather i ran mine up under the bed and mounthed it on the bottom of the bed just used some cheap autoparts stor tubbing and it worked great really good when i would go into some deep mud and water

lordhowe

A few more questions before i take this job on guys:
After reading through the FSM last night i think i would need the following items:
1. Axel Seals
2. should i do the wheel bearings while i have the axles part?
3. tube of RTV
4. Lock Right locker

Are there anything else that i would need for the job?

thanks!

AxleIke

Wheel bearing require a press, and either a specialty tool, or some ingenuity. Not something the average shadetree mechanic like most of us are can do. You can take the axles someplace though, after they are out of the truck, which will save you some money, and replacing the wheel bearings is never a bad thing.

Just be sure to use factory toyota bearings or equivalent (Koyo or Nachi).

You will also need gear oil, brake fluid, and I'd recommend a 10 mm flare nut wrench for the brake lines, doubly so if you have rusty parts.

lordhowe

my next door neighbor has a press and i have used it a few times so i think i can have that covered. I went to advanced and they quoted me for 70 bucks a piece for the rear wheel bearing. anyone know how much it is to get it from toyota?

i found several online a little cheaper but they have this note attached to them:

For non-ABS models, you should also service the collar, part # 42423-20010, which requires 1 per side. For ABS models it requires 2 collars per side. You may also need to service the skid control ring, part # 43517-35010, which is prone to damage when pressing the bearing and collar.

is the Collar the same as the Axel seals? i also see some recommending wheel seals, are they the same thing?


thanks again Ike! for some reason after seeing your build, i don't think you are like us -> shadetree mechanic

AxleIke

Before you decide to do the bearings, look around on the net a bit, and read up on this:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...wheel_bearing/

Other ways to do it I'm sure, but its at least a good over view on what you are getting into.

Wherever you buy bearings from it needs to be Koyo or Nachi. Timken is good too.

If it says anything but those three on the bearing, don't get it.

This is a better option, IMO: Full kit with the good bearings, and the seals, and everything else you need, for 150 plus shipping.

http://www.marlincrawler.com/axle/re...ce-kit-1979-99

lordhowe

Hey Ike,

thanks a lot for all of your help! I will be getting the parts and attempting this. will let everyone know how my back yard rigging goes.