Exhaust gaskets R&R, '95 4Runner 3VZE
 

Hey folks, first post here. I've had my 4Runner for about 4 months, and I'm trying to do some maintenance during school break.

I've got an exhaust leak that I can't seem to locate, but it's definitely on the left side under the hood. Doing the old rag over the tailpipe trick didn't seem to help, but since I'm reasonably sure of the location, I'm going to replace the exhaust manifold gasket and the crosspipe and downpipe gaskets.

The area is pretty tight around there. I read here a recommendation to use a 3' socket extension to get the lower crosspipe nuts, or was that for the downpipe? Any recommendations on how to get to the area?

At the same time, I'm going to replace the valve cover gaskets and oil pan gasket to stop some oil leaks (1 quart every 500 miles!) and at the same time, replace the timing belt and check valve clearance just to be sure the maintenance has been done. There's a very nice writeup of the timing belt procedure here I'll use, this forum rocks!

Any other maintenance I should do while I'm at it? I won't do anything too expensive, the wife won't let me spend the money, and I don't want to add too much more time to the job since this is our ONLY driver. But since I'll have it all apart, I should do anything easy along the way.

Heh, I love the diagrams and procedure in the FSM for disconnecting the exhaust pipe and crossover, "just remove the nuts", with a nice, clear view of the back of the engine and a hand happily cranking the ratchet. From what I've read here, the procedure isn't anything like that, and many folks just leave the crossover on when removing (and replacing) the heads.

It'll be next week when I get to this, but I'll get back with my experience.

:oops:

Here's someone who removed the tranny to get the crossover pipe out. Ugh!
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-swap-196543/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l-snag-196848/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...n-tips-178826/
Yeah, I'm talking to myself, but maybe a collection of these links will be helpful to someone else some day, heh!

Anyone know how to remove the exhaust crosspipe right-hand (passenger) side bolts? I can get a wrench on each one of them, but there's no room to turn it much less get any leverage.

I might get a little more room if I removed the PAIR valve, but the valve's lower bolt on the exhaust manifold is obscured by an A/C line.

A final possibility is tipping the engine up, as someone else did, but I fear this would open up a new can of worms.

Man, I feel for you. I was able to get to them from the back using a bunch of extensions and a u-joint at the top. I have a 14mm u-joint socket from Sears that works well.

Yeah, I've gotten 2 loose, of course the last one is the innermost bottom one. I tried the 14mm socket on a u-joint with extensions, and I think the bolt is now halfway stripped after the socket popped off while I was trying to break the bolt. :pop:

To get this far:
- unbolted the p/s pump and pulled it out of the way;
- unbolted the A/C;
- removed the PAIR valve;
- EGR valve was removed when taking off the intake air chamber (doing the valve cover gaskets at the same time);
- cover off the wheel well;
- wire bracket off that cover removed.

I hoped that pulling the guard off the back of the starter would give more clearance, but I don't think it actually helped anything.

I've got the front of the engine all taken apart too (timing belt), so I could feasibly undo the engine mounts and move it around if I thought it would help. Any ideas there?

This post was pretty helpful, but maybe my 'quiver of wrenches' isn't as awesome as his:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...n-tips-178826/

You might try putting a 6-point socket all the way onto the nut and then putting the u-joint in as far as it will go. This way you'll have as much grip on the nut as possible and still have enough u-joint into the socket to hold. The u-joint won't be all the way in the socket but that's ok.

Have you soaked the nuts for a couple of days with penetrating oil? If not, do that at least overnight.

Hey Bugs, you called it. WD40 overnight, again in the morning, and got a 6 point socket (you were right, the 12 point just didn't grip well enough).

Got under there, applied some muscle, and there was that moment of fear when it popped, was it the socket stripping the last of the head? Then the joy when the nut turned in my hand!

The crosspipe is now dropped and I got the driver's side manifold out after removing the tranny dipstick tube. It looks like both the downpipe gasket and the exhaust gasket #6 cyl. both failed.

One of the manifold studs came out. I got it back in, not very tightly, with a 6mm socket, but really it needs some kind of star socket that I haven't yet identified.

Thanks for the good info. Wish I could buy you a beer.

Hey, no problem! Glad you got it off. Use anti-seize lube on the stud when you put it back together and replace any nuts that are rounding off. Much easier next time. Take care,
Bugs

So, I got everything back together, and amazingly it starts and drives fine. 5 days to:
- Replace timing belt + idlers + water pump
- Replace valve cover gaskets (check valves at same time)
- Replace exhaust gaskets

There's still a problem. The engine makes a loud squealing sound that sounds a lot like the belt. However, I think it might not be the belt, since I fired it up for a moment before I put the belts back on and I thought it made the same noise. I didn't run it long enough to investigate though.

I fear there's a problem with the timing belt job, but before ripping it back apart, I hope you wise folks can give me some pointers. Any idea what to check?

Verified: pulled the belts, and the squeal is still there. Ugh, looks like a water pump R&R.

Fixed! Turns out that the tensioner pulley, brand spanking new, wasn't turning. Really WAS a belt squealing: the timing belt! It's possible to replace that pulley without pulling off the timing belt, so the fix was pretty quick.

Took the car for a spin around the block and it runs pretty good. Of course fixing the exhaust leak has uncovered a high-frequency jingling sound that seems to be coming from around the middle of the left cylinder head. That's an adventure for another day though.

Aargh, after doing the timing belt, then taking it apart again to fix the bogus tensioner pulley I bought off eprey, now I find that my engine's dripping oil like crazy.

Busted it open for the THIRD time to find I installed the left camshaft oil seal incorrectly; the lip is poking out on the bottom side. D'oh! :bang:

And AutoZone wants $12 for the part, ach, I remember when oil seals used to cost $2.50. I mean seriously, am I just showing my age, or is $12 for an oil seal a rip?

:bump:

I was wondering if you had anymore advice/ success with this whole undertaking. I have a similar sound happening with my 4runner.

Which sound is that, omegacore? The exhaust or the belt?