joedever

I have a 1993 22re 2wd standard transmission pickup. Last year I got the timing chain and head gasket replaced (using kits from LCE). The mechanic suggested changing the piston rings and whatever else could be done to the bottom end without removing the engine. He bought those bottom end parts from advanced auto.

Since that rebuild, my engine has been burning half a quart to a quart of oil with every fill up. He suggested I wait a few thousand miles and see if it gets better. It's been 11k miles, and it's not better. Based on my
“internet research,” I think he used a substandard piston ring or just installed them wrong. I'm going to get him to redo it, it'd be smart to show up with the correct rings (just in case). LCE performance has several choices, but most seemed geared toward modified engines. Does anyone have a link or name of a specific quality ring set?

Thanks

L5wolvesf

What oil have you been using type and weight pls.

joedever

The mechanic used a heavier 10w-40 oil to break it in (non-synthetic). I've used Castrol GTX 10w-30 since then.

millball

11 thousand?? Those rings will never seat.

I like NPR piston rings, but Hastings or other brand name rings are probably just as good. I don't think that chrome rings are warranted for these engines,
I don't think the factory ever used them.

Honing cylinders correctly before installation is essential.

I think many use hones that are not coarse enough grit. I like hones of 180 to 240 grit.

I have built many engines using these fairly coarse hones and not one an oil pumper.

It is the sharp tops of the honing cross-hatch that 'cut' the new rings in and wear to conform the cylinder.

The base of this honing remains to hold some oil on the cylinder walls practically forever.

I have seen engines run a hundred and fifty thousand miles or more, where the hone marks can still be seen.

Most ring break-in happens in the first 50 miles and the first 20 or so minutes of engine running time are crucial.

Try not to fire the brand new engine until the car is ready to take out onto the road and then accelerate and decelerate fairly hard 20 or so times in lower gear/s from idle
up to 3500/4000rpm and most ring break-in will be done. After that, you might address any cam break-in time that you see fit, but ring seating must come first.

First oil comes out after three hundred miles, and second oil after 1000. On these flat tappet engines a ZDDP booster can't hurt these first two oil changes.

This regime has always worked well for me.